Tree won't break dormancy

13 years ago

I planted a bareroot persimmon cross (Nikita's Gift) in April but it is doing NOTHING. I scratched the bark and it's still green under the bark all the way up to the leaf nodes. Is there anything I can do at this point? I don't understand what is going on with this tree!

Featured Answer

mainegrower

13 years ago

Some tree species, especially if they have been in cold storage which would be the usual procedure for bare root stock, require a process known as "sweating" to force them into growth. Basically, sweating consists of raising the temperature and humidity around the tree by packing moist spahagnum or other material around it and covering with plastic sheeting until the buds begin to swell. I'm sure you can find more detailed information about how to do it online or from your County Extension Service. I do not know if persimmons commonly require sweating, but your description of green cambium with no sign of breaking dormancy is typical of the many species that require sweating. Sometimes trees will eventually break dormancy without the sweating, but they are generally in a weakened condition so survival over the first winter is very iffy.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
13 years ago
I don't understand what is going on with this tree!

The tree is not breaking dormancy. It is unhappy. It will awaken or it won't. If it doesn't let the place where you purchased the product know and they should replace it.

Dan
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years ago
if it was mail order ...

sometimes they take forever to break dormancy ..

but i would call the vendor.. and tell them that you wish a replacement at proper planting time in fall ....

and in the mean time.. maybe this one will break dormancy ..

ken

ps: was this an arbor day tree????
Related Discussions
Montmorency won't break dormancy
Q
Comments (4)
Susana: The presence of a lot of Prunus Serotina around may be one of the reasons why domestic varieties like Montmorency do not do well. In many areas where the wild species grows, nearly all of the trees are infected with bacterial disease, which is easily passed to cultivated cherries. There is no easy solution, since there are so many wild cherries around and they are often very large trees. About all you can do is spray your cherry trees with a strong copper solution like Kocide a couple of times during the dormant season to stave off development of the disease. I figure the maximum life of a cherry tree in Northern Virginia is about 25 years, but that can be cut to 20 or even 15 years if bacterial disease pressure is heavy. I took down a very large Prunus Serotina right next door about 10 years ago, and since then bacterial cankers on my trees have been greatly reduced. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA
...See More
Sweating Trees to Break Dormancy
Q
Comments (3)
I've helped do this only once, so my memory may not be entirely accurate, but... Trees (whips) were layered on plastic, covered with moist sphagnum, another layer of plastic, etc., etc. Temperatures were maintained at a minimum of 50 and not allowed to go above 70. No direct sunlight. Checked every day. Individual trees removed and potted when the buds began to swell. Redbud, hawthorn and birch were the species, I think. Perhaps others need this treatment as well if they have been in cold storage for the winter. The whole purpose is to force the trees to break dormancy. If it was not done, some trees would no doubt have broken dormancy without the treatment but sweating insures a far greater successful percentage. Not sure if the instructions are still there, but check Fedco in Maine. They used to have very good instructions for sweating in their woody plant catalog.
...See More
Native trees and shrubs breaking dormancy
Q
Comments (3)
10 day forecast for here in the Dayton area looks mild and some rain so things will be springing into life again. My carpinus caroliniana buds are really swollen as of yesterday but the other two hornbeam's are not that far along. Neither are natives as well.
...See More
Flowering vine that won't break the trellis
Q
Comments (8)
Get some obelisks for Arabella to grow up the middle of. Here is my C. Star River (another nonvining C. integrifolia hybrid) growing up the center of a rose obelisk. I occasionally tuck the growing tips in as it grows but I don't tie at all. I think with an obelisk that had more wires I wouldn't even need to tuck in - this one is more like a tall plant ring. Also, they make plant clips that are a whole lot easier than tying. I would plan to reinforce the wood tellis. I generally use 3'-4' pieces of rebar pounded into the ground at least a foot alongside the upright tellis members and fastened solidly in several places with zip ties of a similar color. I find that often the tellis legs aren't long enough to hold it solidly, especially in the wind once covered in vines. That spot looks fairly shady. Is it? I think if it is, I can't think of any shade-loving, flowering vines that would grow there. Climbing Hydrangea is way too large for the site and needs a flat surface such as a masonry wall or tree trunk. If the spot has at least 4-5 hours of sun, consider some of the more shade-tolerant clematis. If it's sunny, clematis or one of the really hardy climbing roses, though that will need to be clipped to the trellis. I have been successful with Zephirine Drouhin which is virtually thornless, so good for near where folks walk; don't use a thorny rose like New Dawn. I use clips to fasten ZD to the trellis. You could try Lonicera sempervirens, the native trumpet honeysuckle if there is at least a half day of sun, and there are some other non-invasive, hardy honeysuckles such as Mandarin. But all are stout, heavy vines and need a solid support. If it is sunny you could also plant annual vines - scarlet runner beans, black-eyed Susan vine/Thunbergia, or morning glories. One comment that I realize you haven't asked for - the color of the arched trellis is a marked contrast to the fence. If it were mine, I would get black wood stain to darken it so that it matches better and blends better with the fence once covered with vines.
...See More
alexander3_gw
13 years ago
Asian Persimmon trees are notorious for being late to break dormancy in their fist year, the nursery should have mentioned this. It's not unusual, and I don't think its a problem. If you ask about this on the fruit forum, you will get answers from people who have had the same experience.

Here is a snippet from the Raintree nursery website:
==================================
" NOTE ON DELAYED LEAFING:

DonÂt worry! Because persimmons break dormancy based on heat units, not chilling requirements, many newly planted persimmons trees donÂt come out of dormancy the first season, in a cool spring and summer climate like the Pacific NW, until summer or even fall. To induce growth, keep a potted tree in a warm place until it starts leafing out. Then remove from the pot with dirt attached and carefully plant it in the ground during a wet spell. A bare root tree could be simply planted in the ground or could be potted and then unpotted and planted just after it started to leaf. Planting instructions are included with each tree."
==================================

Alex
Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
13 years ago
The issue with the OP is that they had an unusually warm spring, then a cool spell and thus the degree days were not constant, likely impairing bud break.

The key is that the tissue is still green. It will make it or it won't, and there is nothing to do but wait. Some trees take a long time to break.

I'm sure the OP called the nursery and they told him the same thing, right? Right?

Dan
spruceman
13 years ago
I may not have any answer about your tree, but I have had a couple of interesting experiences.

First, many years ago I bought three "Carpathian" walnut trees. One did not break dormancy, but like your persimmon, was obviously still green and seemed alive. That year it never did leaf out--nothing. I just left it. The next year it broke dormancy at the usual time and grew normally.

Then 3 years ago I bought a Hazel Smith sequoia tree. It never seemed to grow at all. It never seemed to me to break dormancy, but because it is an evergreen, something that I couldnÂt notice may have happened. But I was worried. Again, I just left it, watered it like any other newly planted tree, and then the next year the buds broke and it grew 5 or 6 inches. This year it is growing faster and seems completely normal.

--spruce

Tree won't break dormancy

mainegrower

Comments (6)

Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

Related Discussions

alexander3_gw

Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)

spruceman

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US