Look for the Bayer Disease Control fungicide. Blackspot can be controlled if you spray regularly.

We don't get much rust here in NJ, unless it come in imported on a plant via mail order. Rust looks like the orange dust from Cheetoes/Jax corn curls. We are more likely to have blackspot or powdery mildew. Your plants have blackspot. Age of plant doesn't matter, some varieties are less resistant to disease.

By "Bayer rose fertilizer" do you mean one of the Bayer Advanced combination products (fertilizer/insecticide/fungicide)? These are not effective for blackspot control. The fertilizer isn't enough, the insecticide kills worms, and the fungicide can't be effective in time to prevent an outbreak of blackspot.

For effective blackspot control, try Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs. It is a fungicide only. This can be started now, applied once a week until the disease is under control, then every 10 - 14 days. You can use a small spray bottle, and measure the product accordingly. Next year, start your fungicide treatment about a week after pruning in late March/early April. Make sure that the plants have been watered well before applying the fungicide.

For fertilizing, try Espoma Rose-tone or Espoma Holly-tone. These are organic, and they also provide amendments to the soil. I also apply a layer of composted manure in the fall.

Also, check the amount of water that the plant is receiving. Roses like to be watered deeply, and less frequently. The top of the soil may look moist enough, but the roots may not be getting enough moisture (even with the rain we've had this spring).

Dolls and Diane nailed it. Those all in one products aren't very good at anything. Like being a jack of all trades and master of none. If you want to fertilize by a fertilizer. Any good well balanced fertilizer will do fine. When you need a fungicide get just a fungicide and follow ALL the directions carefully. When you find an insect infestation bUy an insecticide FOR THAT BUG! Besides, using an insecticide when you don't actually have a bug infestation is a waste of time, effort and money. All insecticides work on contact and if the bugs aren't there when you spray it won't work. It will just kill the beneficial ones and that can lead to an even worse infestation of bad bugs later on. And when you do find bugs you need to ID them before you go looking for a solution. Not all insecticides work on all bugs. ID the critter and then get the right product for that particular pest.

Thanks for the help. I will go get the spray. I did buy the all in one. I'm sorry to I ment to say blackspot not rust. Is black spot something that is in the plant or does it "catch it"? I feel like in the three years I have had them it gets it right off the bat every year.

Blackspot is something that the plant "catches, the spores are always present in the environment. Some roses (the Knock Out series) are able to resist the disease, others are not able to resist. For those that aren't disease resistant, a blackspot infection can emerge very early in the growing season. That is why preventive fungicide application show begin as soon as the plant starts to leaf out in late winter.

Once the plant catches blackspot, it will never go away completely. Fungal bodies carry over the winter in the bark of canes and in dead leaves in the mulch.

With the best fungicides (Bayer Disease Control, Honor Gaurd, Bonide Infuse, and Fertilome Systemic Fungicide) a two-week spray interval will provide good control, and, once the disease is suppressed, you may get away with skipping an interval during a drouth or extreme heat wave. The most important applications are in early season when the leaves are first expanded.

Unfortunately, many stores don't carry any of the best fungicides, so call ahead and insist on an exact match of names. Everybody carries those stupid combo products.