Thanks for the response. I've read negative things on rototilling, tearing up the soil in an unnatural manner, that often can then lead to later over-compaction. I do think it might be simpler to wait for the lasagna method to finish its chemical reactions that amend the soil before planting, and I've seen that approach on YouTube. But our LA County planting guide says we can just plant immediately if we like, and I've also read this on the internet. We have a window of time for this, and we are trying to get it all done by mid-January, including planting. I will double check whether we will actually need ongoing drip irrigation in the long-term, or whether the plants will be fully self-sufficient once they are established. In the former case, we'd probably spend more time putting in a good automatic drip system, in the latter case maybe we would just hand-water or something till the plants are established. So thanks for mentioning that possibility. Ken

Oh wow! I had a huge asparagus fern that I nurtured from Ohio to Illinois to Memphis, TN, where it got eaten up and died. I was so sad until I moved to Florida. It's a weed here. You cannot kill or dig up the dang things! LOL Eye of the beholder, huh?

I wouldn't recommend it. Lasagna beds tend to be loose and roses need sturdy ground in order to strengthen it's roots. Not to mention it leaves the roses vulnerable to freeze and thaws of winter. It's great for fertilizing and conditioning but unsuitable as a rose bed. Large raised beds would probably work but it has to be really large ones. Unfortunately large beds take time to make and you have a more immediate need to get the plants in the ground. It's not okay to leave the plants in the containers over winter... The cold temps will kill them. Also I agree with your observation re the tire method. I'm not convinced that this offers good protection over winter. Another observation: Tree roots will compete with your plants for moisture. So putting your plants near any roots would be a problem. You may have to deal with those roots. Perhaps cutting them out and setting up root barriers. My thoughts are: concentrate on creating a temporary housing bed until your actual bed is ready for use. It would be simpler to order a truckload of earth and have that dumped in a spot where you could keep your potted plants buried and protected until such time that you are ready. If you have straw bale available you could probably form a large box with the pots inside and topped of with the soil - which you will probably reuse once their permanent bed is ready for use. You will have to work that hard pack soil eventually. I would deal with that no matter how difficult it is. Some of those roots may need to be trimmed off. I'd probably start off with a double digging method which allows you to renew the earth a little at a time - which means that you could plant the roses a couple of pots at a time. In order to renew the soil, I use compost, new topsoil, composed manure, maybe some bonemeal. just my thoughts on how to approach this dilemma. Ianna

I've removed yellow nut sedge in my lawn and flower beds by pulling it as soon as I see it, checking regularly, and pulling everything I see. The continual pulling eventually exhausts the nuts. It takes dedication, but it can be done -- even if you have a patch of it. I haven't ever tried the lasagna method. On the other hand, green kylinga (another sedge) is taking over many parts of my lawn, and is past the point where I can do anything except perhaps someday spray with Sedgehammer or one of the other sedge-killers. I haven't investigated them yet.... The pasture has much yellow nut sedge (with a little bit of purple), but the grasses keep the nut sedge from completely taking over.