Hi. Do it if you must do it,I would wait unttil Spring,when your ROS grew all it's leaves.It would mean to me,that the plant is strong and will survive any difficulties. Anyone would move them at the end of August? Regards, Hala.

I'll have to admit that I don't know how I manage to keep tomato plants growing. I use a more primitive heat system with wood stoves and trying to start a wood fire on a rainy day in a tunnel is asking for a tunnel filled with smoke. But today even with only 46*F and drizzle all day it managed to get up to 60*F inside that tunnel and my biggest decision was whether to keep removing suckers which are growing inches every day or protect plants from damp weather issues by applying a preventative fungicide. The tunnel growing definitely has it's own set of issues but the degree of my control over these issues is greatly improved. I've lost a few plants to cold temps within tunnels many years ago when I relied on the cover alone as in 1. row cover within 2. covered canopy within 3. tunnel (following concept that one gains a weather zone for each layer of cover). A heat source makes all the difference nowdays for me but I chose to keep it low cost. An Amish neighbor has a thermostatic controled propane heat system that he claims held his greenhouse at 60*F when it was 15*F outside. We both are growing for profit but I wouldn't want to trade setups. Just like many of you, I have a sense of pride in overcoming odds. Yet I think everyone should erect a tunnel simply to vastly improve those odds. I just covered my 3rd one this weekend.

I have failed at pictures thus far.. I work a full time job, and also run my own business so this post hasn't gotten much attention lately! We did have a cool spell for about a week and I noticed that the leaves started looking healthy again, despite my having forgotten to hand water. It looks like this is basically transplant shock that is only appearing when the higher temps come around which makes sense seeing it is a more stressful environment. I think all in all, I should just leave the thing alone and let the roots re-establish themselves. I was surprised since it really isn't that hot, but it looks like 80's and the plant is happy, 90's and the plant gets cranky. All that being said, the wood isn't dying back, and the leaves have stopped dropping so I think it will manage to survive. I will top dress next year to try and give the soil a bit more nutrient density and otherwise just see how things go! Didn't want to leave this post hanging. Thanks again for all the comments.

Thank you, Stephanie, for the tip of Garden Tutor Soil pH Test kit strips. I find that soil pH test via a solution (red-cabbage juice) is more accurate since it takes at least 1/2 hour for the minerals in soil to dissolve in water. I tested soaking coffee ground in red-cabbage juice, at first it was acidic (pinkish), but after 1/2 hour soak, the solution became clear, coffee ground is known as a buffer. Same with rose park nearby, they scattered a layer of gypsum on top of their clay. I scoop up 1 heaping Tablespoon of their soil and tested in red cabbage juice. At first the solution turned pinkish (acidic), from the 18% of sulfur dissolved first. After 1 hour, the solution became very blue (alkaline), from the calcium of gypsum being slowest to dissolve, plus the alkaline minerals in soil was slow to dissolve. SARENA: for the reason above, it's best to mix gypsum 1 month in advance into soil, and let rain or a few waterings release its acidic sulfur to dissolve minerals in soil (rather than to corrode roots). Since you are in a high-rain climate, it's good to have solid minerals on top to buffer acidic rain, such as a thick layer of Worm Casting (pH 7.4), or your clay (if alkaline like mine at pH 7.7). Vermiculite is to improve moisture and to hold nutrients, plus to make potting soil fluffy for wimpy own-roots. Perlite has zero nutrients but good to MIX-IN so roots can have more oxygen for growth. Own-root roses like moist but airy soil. Both vermiculite and perlite is best mixed into potting soil. One rooting method recommended by University of CA at Davis is to mix 1/2 vermiculite (for moisture & cation exchange) plus 1/2 perlite (for aeration).