Sure. They grew in your yard and took nutrition from it. Only fair that they should give it back. I use everything that grows except poison ivy, wisteria and kudzu.
You may have volunteer tomato plants sprouting next year but they will be healthy and dedicated!
Transplant them or let them grow in place. It's all good.

compost any and all plant 'trash' from the garden

Bill

Every thing that once grew in your yard, from old tomato plants to the pine needles you may get, should be recycled on your premises. All of that vegetative waste has removed nutients from your soil that needs to be put back.

If the stems on the plant are very large in diameter (some of mine look like small tree trunks) chop them into small pieces to speed up rotting. Otherwise, they can take quite a while to rot.

Karen

If any of your plants are diesased, they should definitely NOT go in the compost. The pile must reach 160 degrees to kill those pathogens, and most piles don't, and of those that do, many will not have the diseased tomatoes in that section of heat. Failure to heat the pathogens incorporates them in the compost, and consequently, next year's garden soil.

I burn my plants and compost the ash. Others bag the spent plants and throw them out.

maupin: I'm not into arguing, but I've used this as a guide:
"The following information is for the highly managed pile and the optimum finished compost in the shortest amount of time. Decomposition occurs most efficiently when the temperature inside the pile is between 104 degrees F and 131 degrees F. Compost thermometers are available at garden shops and nurseries. It is best not to turn the pile while it is between these temperatures, but rather when the temperature is below 104 degrees F or above 131 degrees F. This keeps the pile operating at its peak. Most disease pathogens die when exposed to 131 degrees for 10-15 minutes, though some weed seeds are killed only when they're heated to between 140 degrees and 150 degrees. If weed seeds are a problem, let the pile reach 150 degrees during the first heating period, then drop back down to the original temperature range. Maintaining temperatures above 131 degrees can kill the decomposing microbes."

I took that quote from here:
http://www.compostguide.com/

It's about halfway down the page, right below the picture of the aeration tool.

I have used that as a guide in the past because I have never found anything else on the subject to counter that.
Have you found something elsewhere? Where did you get your information?

Again, I'm not here to argue, too many discussions end up that way of late. I'm asking for my own education and knowledge.

Karen

Here is a link that might be useful: composting guide

Ive seen the same info that Karen put up, about things being killed at those temps.

Ive also seen info that says cold compost is better, cuz it helps the plants fight off the pathogens, and that exposing the microbe guys to disease gives them a chance to build immunities.

Lucky for me, my mater plants are doing well and dont seem to have any diseases. They're going in!

maupin seemed to be speaking of killing pathogens.

Karen

Attached here is an article about composting diseased plant tissue so antibodies to that disease will build up and innoculate your soil so those disease pathogens will not affect your plants in the future.

Here is a link that might be useful: Disease Suppression with Compost

Below is info from the site kimmsr referenced. Unless you are planning to do some extreme management on your compost pile, I wouldn't even be tempted to throw tomato plants into your compost. You could end up with disease causing compost. That's the problem with the idea that compost fixes all the garden ills. Unless you somehow know the exact ratios and ingredients, you could have some serious problems. Unless you have a lab in your basement, how would you know what you are incubating?

It has become evident that a "one size fits all" approach to composting used in disease management will not work. Depending on feed stock, inoculum, and composting process, composts have different characteristics affecting disease management potential. For example, high carbon to nitrogen ratio (C:N) tree bark compost generally works well to suppress Fusarium wilts. With lower C:N ratio composts, Fusarium wilts may become more severe as a result of the excess nitrogen, which favors Fusarium. (24). Compost from sewage sludge typically has a low C:N ratio.

You can do a separate pile, though, and use that one on your perennials. This is what I do. Or let it sit a few years before you use it, if you cold compost.

Taking information out of context is counter-productive. Further reading from the above link states:

"Three approaches can be used to increase the suppressiveness of compost. First, curing the compost for four months or more; second, incorporating the compost in the field soil several months before planting; and third, inoculating the compost with specific biocontrol agents (24)."

Still further:

"The key to disease suppression in compost is the level of decomposition. As the compost matures, it becomes more suppressive. Readily available carbon compounds found in low-quality, immature compost can support Pythium and Rhizoctonia. As these compounds are reduced during the complete composting process, saprophytic growth of these pathogens is dramatically slowed (26). Beneficials such as Trichoderma hamatum and T. harzianum, unable to suppress Rhizoctonia in immature composts, are extremely effective when introduced into mature composts."

In the next section:

"It is clear that compost maturity is a key factor in its ability to suppress disease. The challenge involved in achieving and measuring that maturity is the primary reason that compost is not more widely used. Certainly, immature compost can be used in field situations, as long as it is applied well ahead of planting, allowing for eventual stabilization. However, good disease suppression may not develop due to other factors. For example, highly saline compost actually enhances Pythium and Phytophthora diseases unless applied months ahead of planting to allow for leaching (24)."

Thus, allowing compost to "cure" not only produces high quality compost, it provides a level of protection from plant diseases. With the proper added nutrients, plants produce a high quality crop/harvest that can lead to better health in humans IMO.

Along the lines that Karen provides, yet another web site provides this information under the heading "Temperature":

"High temperatures are essential for the destruction of pathogenic organisms and undesirable weed seeds. Decomposition also proceeds much more rapidly in the thermophilic temperature range. The optimum temperature range is 135-175°F, with 150°F usually being the most satisfactory. Since only a few of the thermophilic organisms actively carry on decomposition above 170°F, it is undesirable to have temperatures above this for extended periods.

Although the eggs of parasites, cysts nematodes and flies are usually destroyed in a short time at temperatures above 135°F, these eggs and cysts have been found to survive in cooler parts of compost stacks for days though the temperature in the interior of the stack is above 135°F. Turning the pile exposes cooler materials to the interior heat of the pile. All the material should be subjected to a temperature of at least 150°F."

Under the heading "Destruction of Harmful Elements":

"An analysis of the typical temperature and of the thermal death points of a number of pathogenic micro-organisms and parasites indicates the unlikelihood of survival of some of the common disease-bearing organisms. The magnitude and duration of the high temperatures, results in very few pathogens or parasites surviving the aerobic composting process.

As previously described, the high temperature zone usually extends only to within 4 to 8 inches of the surface. Turning materials is therefore necessary, for ensuring pathogen and parasite destruction, particularly if a composting period under six months is used. In some composting operations the material is turned only once or not at all. A thermophilic temperature is developed after the initial aerobic stacking. This is considered to be sufficient to destroy the pathogens and parasites."

Finally, under the heading "Time":

"There is no time period after which you can say you have "total", "perfect", "complete", "finished" compost. The current rule of thumb is that organic materials must be composted correctly and aged for at least one year, before the resulting compost can be called "safe for most uses." Some composting methods will produce "finished compost" before twelve months, and some of the very low maintenance methods may take up to two years, or more, to produce "finished compost."

The link below leads to the full article.

Properly made and cured/matured compost is one of the best things to add to ones garden IMO. Adding mineral amendments to ensure maximum nutritional quality of harvest can lead to better health and very tasty food crops. How a gardener makes/uses compost is up to the individual; nonetheless, this gardener has no problem adding diseased plants to the compost pile. Experience will forever be the best teacher, and that only comes with timeÂ

Blutranes

A number of people that I correspond with in Ireland, France, New Zeland, Australia, Spain, Germany, all have solved plant disease problems in their soils by composting the diseased plants and putting that compost back into their soils. There is also a school of thought that incorporating diseased plant tissue into the garden soil, along with enough organic matter, will do the same thing.

As I said in my first post which was not out of context since I copied and pasted the context; you must be willing to do some extreme management of your compost based on sketchy and controversial info. The op's question was about tomatoes which are prone to several fatal 'wilts' including Fusarium and Verticillium. The site mentions some suppression or decrease in these thru fertilizers, bio-drenches and crop rotation. It does not claim elimination of these diseases. It is just my own personal opinion that nothing should ever be recommended as a solution to a problem if that solution involves either extreme management, lab analysis, or uncertain (read unproven/controversial) end results. This disease control thru composting theory is just that, a theory. Composting tomatoes is not a recommended practice of any university I know of. It is controversial with a very, very few rabid proponents claiming good results and far more conservative researchers warning against such risky practices.

These theories are interesting and exciting. I really enjoy reading about them. I would never use them if my university extension advised the opposite. Why in the world would you take the risk? When dealing with the many serious fungal and bacterial diseases of tomatoes in particular, it is always best to proceed with caution. On the other hand, if I enjoyed taking risks to prove theories I would ask the experts, kimmsr and blutranes for an exact measurement of organics by weight. I would also request they stand by with advise if it rained (8 inches in 3 hours like it did Monday nite) and my compost never heated up and was currently sitting in a sodden condition with heat looking a long way off and Fusarium and Verticillium incubating at an alarming rate.

Thank you folks for all of that information and opinions. It never ceases to amaze me how much there is to *digest* on this forum.

Karen

So did we ever find our it the maters in questions were diseased?

Certainly "soil inoculation" and disease suppression are interesting topics which will be debated long after we have all perished.

I can't say I have read all of the links above but what I have read, I have not seen any indication (or recommendation) to compost diseased plants or that doing so will "inoculate" the soil.

To me inoculation implies a one time event which is kind of misleading. Don't get me wrong, I wish it were so.

I am looking for an inoculation for say "Powdery Mildew" and would venture to say that if YOU have one, YOU will NOT have to work another day in your life. So pick your favorite inoculation, then tell us how it can be done!!! Esp. by composting diseased plant matter.

To be clear, I am not saying you can't or should not compost diseased plant matter. Certainly it may offer something towards making a balanced compost which will help your soil and plants resist some diseases, fungi, or other plant problems.

Rather than mis-interpreting I will paste -
Direct Inoculation with Beneficial Organisms

There are a number of commercial products containing beneficial, disease-suppressive organisms. ...
These companies will send you their product and technical information upon request. Consider your cost and overall soil health before trying these products. Dr. Elaine Ingham of the Soil Foodweb offers a perspective on using soil inoculants. The essence of her perspective is in the following paragraph.

Trichoderma and Gliocladium are effective at parasitizing other fungi, but they stay alive only as long as they have other fungi to parasitize. So, these fungi do a good job on the pathogenic fungi that are present when you inoculate them, but then they run out of food and go to sleep. In soils with low fungal biomass (soils with low organic matter and plenty of tillage) these two beneficials have nothing to feed on. Compost is a great source of both the organisms and the food they need to do their jobs. A great diversity of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and beneficial nematodes exists in good compost (4).

Read more of Dr. Ingham's commentary on the Soil Foodweb Web site under the products section.

Summary

Soil-borne diseases result from a reduction in the biodiversity of soil organisms. Restoring important beneficial organisms that attack, repel, or otherwise antagonize disease-causing soil organisms will reduce their populations to a manageable level. Beneficial organisms can be added directly, or the soil environment can be made more favorable for them with compost and other organic amendments. Compost quality determines its effectiveness at suppressing soil-born plant diseases. Compost quality can be determined through laboratory testing.

I, for one, did not understand any of the above to recommend composting diseased plant matter. In fact, putting disease into the pile may tie up all the good guys eating the bad guys YOU are putting in the pile. And after reading the above, I am thinking you would be far better off to compost directly wherever you are planting, leaving ALL the good guys in the soil.

The entire text can be found at the link below or search for "Sustainable Management of Soil-borne Plant Diseases".

Gumby_CT - who thinks this we may have hijacked this "tomato plants in compost?" from the OP

"Composting tomatoes is not a recommended practice of any university I know of. It is controversial with a very, very few rabid proponents claiming good results and far more conservative researchers warning against such risky practices."

Although I didnt provide the link to ATTRA, the comment motivated me to look into these "mad dog" proponents who advocate composting tomatoes:

"What is ATTRA?
ATTRA - National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service is managed by the National Center for Appropriate Technology (NCAT) and is funded under a grant from the United States Department of Agriculture's Rural Business-Cooperative Service. It provides information and other technical assistance to farmers, ranchers, Extension agents, educators, and others involved in sustainable agriculture in the United States."

And:

"Who does ATTRA serve?
ATTRA services are available to farmers, ranchers, market gardeners, Extension agents, researchers, educators, farm organizations, and others involved in commercial agriculture, especially those who are economically disadvantaged or belong to traditionally underserved communities. Anyone may read or download publications from our Web site, but we do not have the staff resources to respond to queries to our office from hobbyists and students."

Finally:

Who are your sustainable agriculture specialists?
NCAT's agriculture specialists are dedicated to the sustainability of American agriculture. Most of them hold advanced degrees in the agricultural sciences. Many were raised on farms, some have been farm managers, and several continue to maintain farms and ranches. They have worked on both foreign and domestic agriculture projects. Some came to NCAT from other nonprofit organizations; others have worked for Cooperative Extension or been university faculty. All of our specialists are involved in research and writing about sustainable agriculture, and they are frequently invited to make presentations at conferences and workshops.

As it relates to my own linked article "Composting Fundamentals", the "extreme management" (a.k.a. work) presented are basic composting techniques suggested by most organic minded web sites and board members. To view them as controversial and theories is surprising.

As it relates to "powdery mildew", the topic was discussed recently in the thread Should I or ?. Personally, I only use three (3) ounces of milk per gallon of water on my plants due to the nitrogen within milk; however, the member suggested the amount he/she felt comfortable with based on experience (I assume). Please note what was suggested to do with the infected plants.

Every autumn, as the compost junkies fan out across the U.S.A., gathering untold amounts of discarded organic materials, giggling as they head home with their compost-able loot, they take with them unknown quantities of possible diseased grass, plants, and leaves. Yet, these addicted composting people produce rich organic matter that they spread over countless acres of garden soil and produce healthy bountiful harvests year after year with no ill effects! Now, some may view this addictive behavior as "risky", even dangerous, yet these self-admitted "compost junkies" persist year in and year out without fail. Some are so addicted they practice this hazardous behavior regardless the season; IMO, they just cant help themselves. There is no known cure for these compost addicted people; the behavior is in them, and just has to come out!

Controversial and/or theories they well may or may not be, yet compost happens, and compost works. The best defense against disease and pests are healthy soil, organically amended with mature compost, and loaded with nutrients for a plant to grow and prosper in. IMO, it doesnt get any better than that

Blutranes

Actually, I sheet compost by pulling up the cages and stakes and leaving the plants to sprawl out and die in place. Through the winter I'll toss on other peoples leaves, maybe some manure, or else I'll till and plant a cover crop.
Gardening is supposed to be fun, so I never wear my glasses out there and wouldn't know a disease if I saw it. Every year the same place is planted to tomatoes and various peppers and I never fail to get a bumper crop. I just have to thin out the volunteers the next spring.

blutranes, you are almost a master at leading the pack astray;~) Let's get back to the op's question. He says his tomato plants are going one by one on Aug 4. No undiseased plants are going anywhere on Aug 4. Where are they going, why are they going, who knows? Maybe Fusarium and/or Verticillium, throw in several bacterial possibilities. So please, just show us all where the ATTRA, NCAT, NFL, AOL whatever organization you choose gives us directions on how we compost these particular diseased tomato plants and at the same time guarantee that the pathogens won't multiply in the soil to infect next years tomato plants. That guarantee is important because the op does not want the same problem next year. Please don't throw in a study on effects of Fusariam on glyphosate-treated soybeans. Don't confuse the issue by giving your opinions on the ATTRA. Just tomatoes Who says compost diseased tomatoes? That's all the op wanted to know. It almost seems some of the forum members are so rabid about proving their pov, they would throw the newbies to the wolves rather than publish a thoughtful, conservative opinion if it involved burning diseased plants.

I don't really have any interest in a prolonged argument about controversial theories, it just seems that anyone giving advise should follow the "first do no harm" rule.

I'll reserve judgment on the credentials of the associations mentioned. You obviously believe they are significant, perhaps they are.

Sjean2007 asks:

"My tomato plants are starting to go one by one. Has anyone tried composting them? Are they good for the compost bin?"

Yes, I compost mine when they reach that state all the time. I trust this helps in some manner...

Blutranes

I use everything that grows except poison ivy, wisteria and kudzu.

Steve, why don't you use kudzu? Charles Wilber who holds several Guiness world records in growing tomatoes (27 foot tall cherry plant, 1370 pounds of tomatoes from only 4 plants) uses it as a main ingredient in his compost pile. High in nitrogen.

He fertilizes these plants using nothing but his compost and a bit of alfalfa meal. He has very specific instructions in his book written when he was 85 years old.

By the way he advises never to put diseased tomato plants into compost pile.

My tomato plants have no diseases. I trim leaves occasionally, and I always compost the trimmings. I plan to compost the plants entire whenever harvesting ends.

I don't plan on composting any diseased plants, but I don't worry as much over what I feed to the wormbin. I trust worms to eat up pathogens more than I trust thermophilic bacteria to do it. Wormcastings were the most effective treatment I found for black spot on my bell peppers. I may try to keep the garden space going all winter, but if not, I'm thinking of just tilling the vines into the ground and turning the worms loose on them.

Wow Blutranes, you must know me! You described how I am every fall to a T! Kinda spooky! lol

As to the poster's original question I honestly don't know the proper answer. But I do know bagging up 4 tomato plants at the end of the season and hauling to the dump was a pain so I would imagine 13 plants would be even worse!

So! This year I plan on putting the spent tomato plants in an out of the way portion of the yard and just let them rot. I already pulled one plant, threw it just outside the veggie garden area. About a week or so later hubby ran over it with the lawn mower while mowing the lawn and presto! No more plant....well, you know what I mean.

I'm going to err on the side of not composting my tomato plants in a compost pile specifically intended for spreading in the veggie garden. I would not be surprised though if the composting process whether it be hot or cold does some how take care of diseases regardless.

I would not be surprised though if the composting process whether it be hot or cold does some how take care of diseases regardless.
If the were indeed true - would we have sooo many diseases & other plant problems?

Are some spores carried thru the air back to the garden?

Just something to ponder.

Gumby_CT - I report, YOU decide ;-)

Gumby,

If I'm not mistaken I think I DID mention my decision before/despite your report thank you;)

Oh! Also, I don't seem to have sooooo many diseases and other plant problems. I even grow pretty healthy roses without spraying. But I do use a lot of organic material, much of it never composted in a typical, modern composting setup.

The majority of my organic material is brought in from the streets from other peoples properties. Every fall I am exactly as Blutranes described....all the way down to the part concerning being a giggly-giddy idiot with their loot.

He's also correct in that despite what dangers may be lurking in those bags (the thought does cross my mind!), my gardens seem to be getting better and better with each passing year (I've only been at this property for 4 seasons so far).

So I stand by my comment that I would not be surprised if the composting process some how takes care of diseases regardless. Whether it be in the fact that composting does indeed KILL plant pathogens or if compost works by boosting up a plant's ability to deal with plant pathogens.

Do I think compost takes care of every disease for every plant in every situation. No, I don't but my experience proves to me time and again that compost is goooood stuff!

Since you seem to like to ponder points, how about this one? What kind of domino effect would be unleashed if every plant disease (or human disease for that matter) were eradicated?

I don't think the decomposition process is nature's way of curing all the diseases of the world but I certainly think it's one of the tools used by nature to keep things in check.

Steve, I know you feel your tomatoes do well year after year after year when planted in the same place but tomtoes are high on the list of plants that should be given crop rotation. Otherwise you leave yourself open to many diseases that afflict this fruit.

Two years...three years at most....then crop rotation should be followed. The tomato plantings should be at least, 20 feet from the nearest furrow that grew the fruit.
Where not possible, container growing is recommended until such 2- 3 years has passed.

This is not to say you cant grow tomatoes in the area...you can...just keep the closest planting at least 20 feet away.

There are many other plants that can help tomatoes avoid such diseases and pests. Squash is one.
There are also many anti-pests that will attack those pests that attack tomatoes.

For health reason alone, crop rotation should be followed even by the casual home gardener.

I can only say......
WOWOW

TO: SJEAN (Oroginal Poster)
FROM: MAUPIN

While witnessing the clash of the microbiologists on this thread is most interesting, unless you are among their number and will micromanage your pile's temperature AND the specific physical placement in the pile of the tomatoes AND the degree to which they have any disease-- burn 'em or throw them in the garbage.

You do not say what zone you are in so I don't know if it's the end of your season or if your tomatoes are prematurely dying from disease,or if fungal disease is prevalent in your area as it is in mine.

The op gave most of her information between the lines--so to speak. She says her plants are going one by one. This doesn't sound like frost (they all go at once if the temps drop below freezing). Sounds like disease. In zone 4 my tomatoes are just peaking. Tomatoes are subject to many, many bacterial and fungal diseases. There is no conclusive proof that composting kills or even controls most of these diseases, let alone inoculates against. To put a sick plant into the compost is to introduce the pathogen/s. As maupin said, if you are an avid composter and micromanage you piles, go for it with no guarantee. If you are a casual gardener, weigh the benefits against the risks. Benefits: a few ounces of organics added to a pile. Cons: no tomato crop next season. Seems like a no brainer.

This post was about composting tomato plants, but can I ask about composting tomatoes with BER? I've been told to put the bad tomatoes in the trash, not in the compost bin?

Thinking on BER keeps changing. Some used to think it was a calcium deficiency. Now I believe the thinking is more a condition of soil moisture, immature plants, weather--in other words, not a disease. Plants usually just grow out of this in a few weeks as they mature.

I compost them. The compost will be used in the perenial and vegatable gardens. We put weeds, kitchen scraps, faded annuals and vegatables into the pile and let it sit. THe beds I set aside for next years Toimatoe plants are already in cover crop. . My fall toms are in the same locations as the spring. THe disease that eventually helped end my spring Toms this year was vectored by insects, not the soil. That combi9ned with excess rain and I was happy with waht I got.

The Compost I am creating using these Tomatoe plants will go into a bed that will grow a cucubert or cabbage family crop, followed by a legume cover folowed by Tomatoes, peepers or eggplant again. , pull the finished nightshades, compost and repeat. I have expanded to 7 seperate vegatable and herb areas that my wife and I are enjoying. I see no reason to not to compost a plant you grow on your property. I also manage to compost fish waste, dead birds ets without anyproblems. I use 2 4'x4' round bins. that are sometimes hot and shrink quickly and sometimes cold and active with insects, arthopods, soldier fly larvae and worms. The cmpost seems to take on a better bioligy after a long cool down process(2-3 months) that follows the heat and makes an excellent tea. So my compost is hot for oonly 1-2 months and then sits unturned for 2-3 months before I sift use what I like and then add more stuff to get the pile hot once again. So I don't really do "batch compost, but more of a perpetual compost. I don't have any qualms about adding food scraps or vegatable matter to a "cold" pile and harvesting from it the next month.

The OP didnt ask about tomato diseases. However, the tomato disease contamination was donated by a different member (a.k.a. hijacking).

TO: Members who get tomato diseases yearly
FROM: Blutranes

If you keep doing what you been doing, you will keep getting what you been getting

Blutranes

Sooo True.....So True

If you keep doing what you been doing, you will keep getting what you been getting

Blutranes

-----------------------------------------------------------

I gotta diaagree, blutranes. I took over a non-organic patch in 1998 and made it totally organic. My first few years were replete with disease and pests. However, as I continued to add organic matter, mulched the plants with newspaper and grass clippings, and eschewed chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides, I find my plants stronger and more disease tolerant every year and the garden more in balance with more predators and bees every year.

The first couple years were tough, but by sticking with it during the darkest days, I have created a terrific (and improving) environment within which to grow all kinds of vegetables.

Maupin,

I enjoy your company too...

Blutranes

the op's orig question is
"My tomato plants are starting to go one by one.
Has anyone tried composting them? Are they good
for the compost bin? "

seems like a yes or no answer will do right?

my executive summary

there is this huge discussion about soil inoculation, disease supression and calls for documented scientific experiments. with links to here & there

"A number of people that I correspond with in Ireland, France, New Zeland, Australia, Spain, Germany, all have solved plant disease problems in their soils by composting the diseased plants and putting that compost back into their soils."

so one response is "As to the poster's original question I honestly don't know the proper answer."

then in the same post goes on to say
"I'm going to err on the side of not composting my tomato plants in a compost pile specifically intended for spreading in the veggie garden."

in the very next sentence
"I would not be surprised though if the composting process whether it be hot or cold does some how take care of diseases regardless."

but you will not compost them? hmmm why not?

is this lawyerese at its finest? or a run for politcal office? prob doesnt even realize just how contradicting these two statements really are

so the people trying to help go away with hurt feelings

but live ______ every after

Who says only disease can cause tomatoes to croak on Aug. 4? Maybe the poster lives in my area. Temps have been 90 to 100 degrees consistently with no rain. Our rain deficit is 11 inches. ALL plants around are looking like crap, mostly from drought, sun scald, fatigue. This includes crunchy brown lawns, dying trees, struggling annuals and perennials, shrubs, you name it. My maters, along with everything else, are trying to croak, but I don't think they're diseased.

My garden started going south the week we were out of town, last week of July. My plants missed my TLC. Friends watered for me, but not like I do. Failure of plants in all cases does not necessarily mean they have a dreaded disease.

Karen

Yep, he's right.

We lost 6 mater plants during a storm last week. A tree blew into the yard right on top of them.

Also had 6 inches of rain, so their roots were a bit waterlogged. The two left that didnt have the tree fall on them are recovering from the extra water.

Now I am scared. I will start with taking my tomato plants to the dump, especially since I wouldn't know if they are diseased or not. Oh my, I just threw a cumcumber plant with some kind of disease in the heap. Is it too late to fish it out?

Then I guess I'll stop composting because it will let weeds and disease spread in my gardens.

(just kidding)

Just to clarify what causes Blossom End Rot, a calcium deficiency. Why that plant is experiencing this calcium deficiency epens on many factors, soil moisture levels being one. Soil calcium levels, soil pH, how fast the plant grows, all kinds of things cause this calcium deficiency, but BER is the result of a calcium deficiency. The problem comes when people think the only solution is to add some form of calcium, antacids, egg shells, epsom salts (magnesium sulfate no calcium), while the real problem is soil related and most often simply having a soil well endowed with organic mater that is evenly moist, but well drained, is all that is needed. If soil moisture is not present the plant, no plant, can uptake the necessary nutrients from the soil.

kimmsr,
So in other words, tomatoes tossed due to BER are fine to throw into the compost heap because they are not diseased.

I have heard of some people putting diseased plants into a large sealed plastic bag in the sun for a few days to solarize them before putting them into the compost heap. I don't expect some one who doesn't have confidence in their compost to do this but most of us with confidence in our compost probably won't bother with the extra step.

If the plants are not diseased, which I'm not sure but I think the original poster said the plants were not diseased, hard to remember as this is a long thread. Anyway, if they are not then they would be fine for the compost IMO. Then again, I'm not a tomato lover and only grow a few plants each season for other people.

I've been cutting my tomato plants up and throwing in the compost barrels. And pea plants, okra, etc. My garden is lush and I'm not adding fertilizer. Must be beginners luck because my garden is about 2 years old.