Size of leaves in phals is partly a function of ancestry, partly a function of maturity. 1. Leaves are always smaller on a less mature plant. In fact, phals are sold by leaf size, the bigger the leaf span, the more $$ because the more mature. Larger leaf size also = more likely to bloom. So a 12-14" leaf span = a mature plant, likely to put out two or even three spikes. 6-8" is kind of a minimal blooming size. From that size you would mostly get a single spike with fewer flowers. 2. However, leaf size also depends on ancestry. The gigantea is big, leaf span can be 18" or bigger, and its hybrids are bigger than non-g's. Baldan's Kaleidoscope is not a gigantea hybrid, but also has big, big leaves when mature. Even a small one has bigger leaves. BTW, it also has a lot of vigor. A real confidence builder. OTOH, many of what are called "multifloras" -- branching spikes of smaller flowers. Mmany, maybe most of these have smaller-leaf plants as ancestors. They mature at a smaller size, so a blooming size plant can be fairly small. Many of these have "pixie" in the name, or hybrids will have a "pixie", equestris, or "tris" parent. About whether big leaves are a clue to a good plant: Yes, (with the caveat about ancestry). But the number also would matter. So will the progression of leaves on the plant. As a phal grows in good conditions, each new leaf is bigger than the one beneath it, so this also would matter. The best clue to a good plant (assuming size constant) is the sign of new growth. In a phal, I would look for the one with a new leaf starting. I would also look to see if the new*er* leaves are at least as big or bigger than the leaf right under it. Both of these would be signs of recent good growth--signs of vigor. A plant with lots of big leaves does have more resources to withstand stress and can produce lots of spikes. If you get a chance at one at a reasonable price whose flowers you like, jump on it. You are asking the right questions, Wish. It won't be long before you will be able to *see* vigour, and literally *see* which is the best plant in a set.

Thank you all for your suggestions. The main reason for the advice to move the bushes was due to their initial installation. We hired a professional landscaper to develop a plan and she did create an initial plan. However, after that she basically disappeared, refused to answer our phone messages, and apparently stopped working as a landscape professional for some time. In addition, the nursery that was providing the plants didn't have some of the ones the plan called for or didn't like some of her choices. Since she wasn't available, and since we had no gardening or landscape experience, we pretty much trusted the nursery to do all the plantings. Now some of plantings aren't working out in terms of color and size - some of the shrubs in particular have overpowered their area. Ironically, where we wanted large bushes to screen out our neighbors, the lilacs and cherry laurels that were planted haven't done the job. I posted pictures below to illustrate. On the left, behind the lavender, there is a variegated redtwig dogwood that is overpowering the korean spice viburnum behind it, the eryngium yuccafolium in front of it, and the echinacea beside it. We were thinking butterfly bushes might work better here. Here is the same shrub from the back. The viburnum is pressed between the redtwig dogwood and the pyracantha on the right hand side. This composition of this whole planting area seems off to us, with tall things in the front and short things behind, etc. but we are unsure what to do with it. Here is the side where we wanted a screen. You can see the neighbor's propane tank and back porch. The master gardener suggested sambucus here: Here is the sambucus, which has completely obscured the view out of this window. We love them and they are beautiful, but we would like to see the river as well: If you have any further comments, I am always opening to new ideas. Thanks!

Hi Kate, I've found that if you can move most of the anchor roots during dormancy, the rose really doesn't seem to mind the move. Removing the soil allows me to get rid of the invasive tree roots and carefully examine the plant. I find that a plastic shovel works great for removing soil around the plant so you can locate the anchor roots and carefully remove them from the soil. A bare root plant is much easier to move than one with a heavy root ball. The Plantsman's advice may be extreme for our climate--our growing season is just six months--shorter if you lose sun due to trees and other obstructions. It doesn't matter what you do for extremely vigorous roses--I think Carefree Delight will grow a large root system as long as it gets enough sun and water. But, losing a month or two of growing time may make a big difference for own root HTs in climates with harsh winters.

Heritage Seedlings, Inc in Salem, Oregon is just about the top of the line for wholesale production of lining out stock. Here is a quote about dogwood production: Dogwoods are among the most popular of all flowering trees. These selections are notable for their resistance to the fungal disease that plagues our native dogwood. We bud ours onto Cornus kousa var chinensis in order to leverage their finer root system and greater transplant success. HS is currently producing and selling many kousa hybrid cvs including the ones that the OP is asking about. Mail Order Natives does not sell Stellar Dogwoods. When I see a link about a 37 year old newspaper article I just don't take it seriously. Perhaps wholesale producers bud or graft to amuse themselves perhaps out of boredom? Someone offer up a link of a genuine, wholesale producer of Stellar Hybrid Dogwoods grown from cuttings. (Pls don't bother us with Uncle Kebo's nursery and tatoo parlor) Here is a link that might be useful: Heritage Seedlings