In Virginia, samples go to Virginia Tech in Blacksburg; the Extension service puts out their little boxes & instruction sheets. The fee is about $10, and on the sheet you indicate what you're growing-- both grass and roses have boxes on the checklist. This area is well known for having acid soils, & we DO at the arboretum where I work. But here at the house the soil is NEUTRAL much to my surprise! It pays to test.

If you look closely at the amounts being suggested you will note that the amounts are really quite small for the area, and probably not really needed. What did they say about Calcium? What is the level of humus (organic matter) in your soil? In addition to that soil test dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else might need to be done.

Marshall, most of what you stated is true - but is only a small part of the picture. I do send samples off for analysis as far from Texas as Oregon - because I know how to corelate the information resulting from my sample to my 'little piece of earth' (or compost). And I desire the highest quality results - be it nutrition, condition/texture or microbe population count - for the same dollar. Yes, different test methods produce different results (identified at the bottom of most test reports). Test results can still be correlated to a different type of test result. Still 'apples to apples'. Still only a matter of education based on a person's degree of interest. This thread subject is important, in my opinion, simply because education is important. We should never stop asking questions, to learn more about improving our own piece of earth, for which we have accepted responsibility. In the main, soil tests ARE 'sacred' to state-run soil laboratories and to the thousands of U.S. county agricultural extension agents who are continuously called upon to render professional services to the commercial harvest business community - based on such science-based tests. Your grocery store depends on them. See, it is still "all about the money". Most plant/soil related research is focused toward, and paid for by commercial agriculture and the companies that support that industry, which feeds our growing population. So I think that tests based on regional soil conditions is a good thing - but tests should be also be sufficiently complete to offer insight into specific planting needs in MY piece of earth - which anyone can easily learn to do by reading. Finding the best test is important to me. Unfortunately, most people who receive soil analysis reports are not also told that they can take that report to their county agricultural extension agent for interpretation to their specific needs. Agreed, the resulting written piece of paper is worthless without knowing how to apply the information. But the public service Ag.Agent is trained in how to do that (and local Master Gardeners). Anyone can research what the relationship of CA is to MG based on given factors. Education IS the Agent's primary focus (and the state land-grant university that supports them), even to the homeowner - which is why the Master Gardener program is supported. Granted, home-style agriculture/horticulture does not usually operate on commercial scale. But science-based soil information is not usually about 'scale'. Scale is a matter of applied mechanics based on time and money. As a soilmaker/nurseryman/landscaper in south central Florida many years ago, I learned (the hard way) to find out what the soil conditions were (in advance) and to ensure proper plant-specific moisture, before installing a variety of plants in someone's property - particularly gardens, shrubs and trees (soil test for nutrients/pH/salt is only part of that gamut). Some of my Florida client's soils received different amendments before certain plantings took place because different plants do have different needs - to thrive (not just survive). Replacing dead plants cost me money, and was bad for my business. Soil tests were simply one means by which I made decisions that SAVED me (and the property owner) time/money. Learning to decipher soil analysis results is not difficult, but is (unfortunately) one of the things many gardeners are reticent to investigate, even after problems are encountered. An ounce of prevention is STILL worth a 'pound of cure', and having a base of reference on which to make improvements to soil (and compost) - is important to me, in what I do. And agree that 'organics' still takes a 'back seat' to the chemical industry - regretably. But that 'world view' is changing...Slowly, but surely - because that's about human survival on this planet. Robert

Wow, thanks so much for all the input. I asked the city inspector about the perc test and he said it wasnt needed since we arent needing a septic system. I called around to differant engineers but they all seem to be in the same price range .10 to .30 a sqaure foot. I chose the engineer we are going with because he is familiar with the city of selma and has done some work for other people in my neighborhood. We arent dealing with rock (luckily). My future neighboor is a general contractor who built his home and the neighbor's to our other side and he said that around here it is general practice to just figure out what kind of soil we are building on...nothing to technical. Hmm...??? I dont know it seems like we do things differant here in texas or maybe just in this small city. Doesnt seem like its a good thing though... On the upside, pricing is great around here. I have gotten some pretty in depth quotes from differant builders ranging from $118,000 to $148,000 for about a 2300 sq ft home. Our lot costs $21,000 (1/2 acre). Its not anything to impressing but its our first home and our dream home. The only upgrades are travertine tile through out the house and granite counter tops, those were some of my most important wants (not needs by any means).