Unfortunately it isn't that simple. I'm only familiar with its use in hydroponics and detailed tables are available for it use in that situation - see the Hydroponics forum here if you want those. The amount used is done by weight, not volume, and it is measured in grams. (ie: 1 gram to 100 ml. of 40 C water) or if converted, approx. 0.03 oz. to 3.5 oz water at 104 degrees F. Plus the mixture will be much weaker if used as a foliar spray or as a fungicide to avoid burning the plant leaves. And the solubility all depends on the temperature of the water you are using to dissolve it in - it is a very wide range of solubility. You also have to factor in the effect it has on pH and when using soil rather than water your native soil pH has to be established first and then adjusted to compensate. Then there is the issue of its use being banned in many states - especially if you live near a body of water of any kind - because of the run-off contamination. You don't give any location so I can't help with that aspect. So all that said and acknowledging that there are much better giant vegetable fertilizers available (see the Giant Vegetables forum here) I'd recommend either finding one of the alternatives or at least posting this question on one of the many growing giant pumpkins forums out there in the hopes of finding someone who has actually used it for that purpose. Contacting the maker of the particular brand for tips on dilution of their particular product would also be an excellent option assuming you'd need more details than just what is on the product label. Hope this is of some help. Dave

Thank you, Hoovb, for the info. Everyone climate and soil is different. Stuff don't decompose ON TOP in my zone 5a winter of -20 degree Fahrenheit. It was snow and hail early this April. Kim (Roseseek) has 7" of rain in his dry California versus my 40" of rain plus 23" of snow in my Chicagoland. Stuff decomposes fast where it's warmer underground in my cold zone, with wet limy clay. Lime was used to corrode corpses. Kim's soil is shale clay, where shale is a natural source of gas. I have limestone clay, rich in calcium carbonate. TUMS (calcium carbonate) is an anti-acid and anti-gas. Stuff decompose fast in my limy clay, versus less in shale clay or sandy soil. I tested it: I put 20+ fresh banana peels IN THE BOTTOM of Radio Times planting hole. That bush is 100% healthy, most blooms. I also tested putting half-rotted horse-manure at the bottom of Christopher Marlow, with huge blooms. My logic of putting cocoa mulch NPK of 2.5 - 1 - 3 at the depth below 2 feet for tomatoes: 1) Cocoa mulch decomposes FAST when wet underground. Its nitrogen content speeds up decomposition. A site stated "cocoa mulch decomposes fast when wet." 2) The heat released from the decomposition process underneath speeds up tomato growth. Black plastic mulching of tomato in cold zone yielded more, and earlier fruits, due to heating up of the soil. We put bags of dethatched grass in the garage one winter, and it heated up the entire garage. 3) The acid released from carbohydrates decomposition breaks up the bottom limestone layer ... I'm hoping for conversion to gypsum (hydrated calcium sulfate). Cocoa mulch is acidic at pH of 5.8, which will bring down my pH over 8 of limestone underneath. 4) By the time the tomato roots expand downward to below 2 feet, everything is decomposed and will supply the potassium needed for that late stage. Cocoa mulch has 2.5 nitrogen, 1 of phosphorus, and 3 of potassium, and contains all micronutrients: ANALYSIS OF COCOA MULCH at pH 5.4 Total N % 3.0 Total C % 43.0 Phosphorus mg/100g 1000 Potassium mg/100g 3251 Calcium mg/100g 575 Magnesium mg/100g 488 Iron mg/100g 140 Manganese mg/100g 9 Zinc mg/100g 11 Copper mg/100g 3.5 Nickel ppm 1.0 This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Tue, Apr 30, 13 at 17:14

The problem might go back into the 1800's. Some obscure papers (as in newspapers) in the early 1800s advised people on how to make bigger rose blooms by exarching and endarching them into fruit tree stems. The history of viruses in fruit trees goes back a long time. IF those roses were grafted onto other plants in Rosaceae that had viruses, that would have gotten the virus into rose stocks. An additional method of tranfer would be root to root transmission, also well known in other memeber of Rosaceae. I have a book with some photographs of rose production in the early part of the 20th century. Perhaps the strangest photo shows labeled buds of seven different roses (all of them much loved OGRs) ALL BUDDED ONTO THE SAME CANE of a multiflora- talk about a way to share problems from one cultivar to another. The cryptic virus in the paper that Henry linked to is also an eyeopener. The scientists got a rose that they assumed was of seed origin with no, nada, nil chance of contact with any other roses....and it was sick with Rose Rosette....and danged if they couldn't isolate RRD from it, but got another virus, instead. And this virus came from ?????. If you are 'into' rose viruses, you also need to read the paper on Rose Spring Dwarf, which has been finally characterized AS a virus by the folks as UC Davis. Dr. Golino told me that had an extremely talented post Doc who did the work. The abstract for that is linked below. Here is a link that might be useful: RSD, a luteovirus

this picture is just after refilling several times to flush it out...so that's why it appears to be really wet....It is not a "quick" quick drain, but it does drain within a few minutes. Not sure if that is "enough" drainage or not..the water (even when filling to the brim) does not sit long, it goes through. So will this plant survive? is it most likely burned from too strong of the miracle grow? Where and/or when will new leaves come? Should it also be flused a few more times over the next few days? This occurred sometime from later yesterday evening until after church today when I went out there to check on stuff.