Hi Anthony, Like Mark, my prices are based on retail, not wholesale. You are essentially a contract grower of specialty produce. If chefs want specific varieties, they must pay a premium, and truly high-end restaurants (that's my market, as well) will just pass on the cost to the guests - don't short yourself. I have worked in high-end restaurants for over 25 years, and been a supplier to them for as long. If your quality is good, don't be afraid to charge what it's worth - it is a lot of labor and a lot doesn't get sold to the best restaurants, because they only want the best, and that is expensive to create. Chefs want clean, unblemished, uniformly sized produce, because it is cheaper for them to process into an elegant presentation. Generally they prefer smaller rather than larger sizes - haricot verts instead of large green beans, slender short carrots instead of large ones - because it means less prep time in the kitchen so less labor cost. They prefer, and know how to recognize, freshness, so harvest your most perishable crops early on the morning of delivery day, and field chill if necessary. If you bring them bug-eaten leaves, crooked carrots, or 10 pounds of potatoes that weigh 1/2 oz and 2 lbs in the same bag, or anything that needs to be washed, they aren't happy. Do your first sorting right in the field into 3 categories - best quality, very good, and the rest. As an example, my purple carrots are grown in beds that are 30" wide and 20' long (50 sq. ft) where the soil is sifted 18" deep, so they all grow straight and fast. I wash them by hand, sort them by size, cut the greens at 1 1/2 inches from the top of the carrot (I sell the tops separately) and sell them 12/$5. They are ready to cut and cook when they arrive. I have a replacement guarantee for any produce that gets returned because of quality issues, or I credit the next order if they don't want a replacement. I deliver on Thursdays and Mondays only, because they are too busy on weekends and Monday they have time to spend talking about the week ahead. I expect payment within ten days, or impose a service charge. Most pay on delivery. For your first year, one restaurant may be all you should commit to, and market the surplus to the others as you have it. Tell the other restaurants that this is your first year doing this type of marketing, and you don't want to sacrifice quality, but you will keep them apprised of any surplus specialty items and they will have first pick. Chefs are very pressed for time and don't like any BS, so be upfront and direct - they'll appreciate it. It is more important to meet the expectations of volume and quality in the beginning, and create a reputation that will allow you to maintain a premium price for your produce. If it's really good, the chefs will be calling you. The only discount should be for produce that doesn't meet your highest standards, and if you can find a non-restaurant market for that, such as caterers or gourmet grocers, it will serve your reputation... chefs talk to each other all the time. I grow in Maine, and most of my markets are local, but I have sold my produce in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, D.C., and Palm Beach, and they pay air-freight shipping rates. Ask the chef you are working with how many people he serves per week (in the trade we call them "covers", i.e.; "we did 158 covers last night," which means they served 158 entrees, not people. Remember that, in most fine dining, dinner is a salad or appetizer, the main meal, dessert, and beverages. You should try to have something from your farm on every plate, even if it is garnishing material like Blue Basil flowers. Even in urban markets, restaurants are seasonal - there are way more rich people in New York in the winter than in the summer (a lot come to Maine), and your area will have seasonal variation too. The chef should be able to guide you towards when demand will slow. Remember too that you have a good market around the winter holidays, so it pays to have something to offer between Thanksgiving and New Years, and Valentines Day can be a nice winter income pop if you plan right. These days, "high-end" in the restaurant industry assumes that each guest will pay $80 or more for dinner, and often way more... some of my clients charge over $200, not including drinks, per person. The very highest-end restaurants routinely get $400 per person, and I have served tables that spent over $10,000 per person - it is a very different world for the 1% crowd. High-end restaurants have a lot of overhead, but they aren't hurting like the mid-range restaurants are. This is the market you want to shoot for, because they have a stable clientele who don't worry so much about economic fluctuations, they just want the best, and will pay for it. There were only 20 restaurants in America last year that received 5-star ratings from Mobil, considered the most stringent reviewer. There are hundreds of 3-star. You want to be selling to 4- and 5-star restaurants, because that will get you adequately funded for retirement.Your preference should always be to service the most expensive restaurants. They are buying from farms like ours. Try to get your farms' name printed on the menu in any restaurant you sell to, this will serve both you and them in that it promotes the perception that they are concerned about local organic food - a very strong selling point these days. Put their names on your own marketing, and at your stand, if the chefs agree to it. Use press releases for marketing as well - if there is a culinary benefit, or the chef is doing a special event, donate something and get it publicized. Sid Wainer is one of the largest purveyors of specialty produce in New England, his website will give you some insight on pricing of some specialty items. Professional cooking magazines will also have good references to follow up on for pricing - much of my garden planning revolves around culinary resources rather than seed catalogs. Publications aimed at the retail consumer market will be of less usefulness - Saveur being a notable exception. I use Fedco for the bulk of my seed order, they are a Maine company that has principles I respect, and carry a lot of good seeds at fair prices, with substantial volume discounts. I also use Baker Creek, Johnnys', Ornamental Edibles, Kitazawa, Seeds of Italy, and Graines-Baumaux in France, and many others. I do not sell large potatoes, "utility" onions and carrots, standard green broccoli or cabbage - the return isn't worth it, and chefs can get it cheaper elsewhere. Once you calculate your plant needs for one restaurant, at least double the number of plants. Stagger planting dates, and take advantage of micro-climates to stagger the harvest further. Explore using different growing techniques as well as unusual varieties, and invest in season-extension and crop protection technology - hoop houses, row covers, IRT mulches, drip irrigation and the like will make your life easier and your product more reliable. Buy varieties based on flavor, color, and heirloom qualities for the most part, but buy common cultivars for experimenting with growing techniques. Look for things like white celery, cornichons, treviso radicchio, sea kale, Egyptian onions, and any unusual colors - carrots are the big thing right now, but black and watermelon radishes, blue peas, orange or Romanesco caulflower, or white strawberries will appeal to chefs with "foodie" clientele. I have ways of growing radishes, carrots, and garlic that are unusual and offer a product unique to my farm, I also market a lot of unusual greens and edible flowers and micro-greens - anything that makes you stand out in the mind of the chef when he wants something unique will bring in $ and more clients. Eventually, you should be intensively working about 5 acres for specialty produce, making a good living, and not need the farm stand at all. Plan to have some of your farm dedicated to ornamental products as well - cut flowers in summer, unusual pumpkins and gourds in fall, and greens in winter can all add to the bottom line. The dining room manager or GM will give you guidance on what they might buy from you instead of a florist. Here is a link that might be useful: Manzano seed

i will if no one has before me :') well, tabor has put an add in the weekly wipe (that would be what we call the weekly little bitty store adds) for 2 female rabbits and a male rabbit. so he can mate them if he wants but mostly so i can have the manuer and they can have the "pets". now you tell me how smart of thinking that was?? LOL mom wants manuer so i'll tell her that to get her to say yes for the rabbits!!! LOL i can just see him thinking that in his head. BUT........what i don't see him thinking in his head is that those babies they make are nice food!! Hee Heee **big grinn** so how was your thanksgiving?? i hope well!! ours went great!! we brought home the turkey!! we are going to be having some turkey noodle soup, the noodles will be those ramean noodles the frozen kind, and that will be put over mashed potatoes!!! LOL YUMMY!!!! then mom let me bring home some of the ham they made,, can you guess what i'll be making with that?? yep!! ham and beans!! i think a pot of beans everyday for a while will be great, with corn bread and maybe some fried potatoe's. YUMMY!! or i'll leave the potatoe's for another night!! LOL but i really want to have beans for a while, we'll be going thru a really cold spell!! LOL i did notice that the stuff don't mix very well in the barrel, i'm thinking of a way to change that, don't exactly know just yet!! LOL i don't have the sodering iron or anything, YET!!! LOL **grinn** ~Medo

Digdirt. I am in zone 7b Not sure where you got the impression that I meant you can throw a 10 foot tall tomato plant in a quart size jar full of confetti and grow it just as well as in the ground. I did account for the reader to have common sense. This is the first year I have grown determinate's, wanted to try to get the hassle down a bit. If Dwarfs do well then will get all my plants down to 3 feet tall and large fruit next year. All things being equal, growing the same type of plant, if you grow in a large container that will allow the roots to grow, supplying proper nutrients, both having the same amount of sun light, watered properly. Then I fail to see why a container grown tomato plant would under perform the one grown in the ground. My uncle has a nice garden, he has been growing in this same garden for about 65 years. When I was growing 2-3 Indeterminate's in my 15+ gallon pots on my back deck, plant for plant I was producing at least as well as his was if not better. He overall produced more naturally because he planted about a dozen plants where as I only planted 2-3. But you could take 2-3 of his best plants and they were no better than mine and I always got tomatoes first and usually last also. He also has always had a much worse time with disease and bugs than I have since I can change out my soil completely and I am growing over 20 feet off the ground. Naturally you can make the perfect conditions in the ground also but it is quite a bit more difficult and expensive. I mislead no one in any way what so ever.

Just a couple of comments from a kitchen designer, if your sink is going to be undermount and it is 33" you will need a cabinet BIGGER than 33" to contain it. I don't see how you can do this even in custom. Maybe they could do 34" or 35"? It's really awkward to reach stuff on a 30" deep counter not to mention cleaning. 3/4" is definitely preferable for shelving. Another factor is the width of the cabinet. The wider you go the more likely you will have sagging. I'd say absolutely do not go over 36" wide if you're using 1/2" shelves. Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchens for Living