Well, I got my meter today and it may indeed be a piece of junk--or it could be me. I don't mind the remote sensor as much as Richard does, but the meter seems to be VERY unspecific in the ranges I need it to read--unless I am missing something. From all I can gather, the meter has two levels, one for sun and HID (or just higher levels) and one for fluorescents, (or just lower levels). One takes up where the other leaves off. The fluorescent (lower) gauge is just calibrated to 10 X 100. I put it six inches beneath my bank of lights and the needle springs off the chart--but there is no way to read whether it is 1500 fc, 2000 fc, 2500 fc--just more than 1000 fc. If I flick the switch from fluorescent to sun/HID it reads 1000 x 6, or 6000 fc--an unbelievable reading for a bank of 4 T8s, right? They are on for 16 hrs a day and my phals would be dust by now at those levels, wouldn't they? I wish I had been warned off this meter BEFORE I purchased it instead of after, but in all fairness several people had recommended Hydrofarm and I didn't go for it. So which is more wrong here, me or the meter? The meter is supposed to be accurate with 2%. Is it even remotely possible my 4 T8s really are giving off 6000 fc of light? Or do I have grounds to return the meter and buy another one. What test can I use? I notice in the highly recommended Hydrofarm meter you have a similar setup, two scales calibrated for low end and high end light. I suppose I could buy one of those at $25 or so and compare and still not be out a load of money... I don't know what to do... Maybe my meter is giving a perfectly good reading (hard to believe as it is), but how can I tell? And if I got the Hydrofarm and the readings differed, how would I know which one was correct? I guess I'm asking "What is truth?" or at least "Where can I find it?" Frustrated Charlie

If you take care of it, it will last a few years. The Cadet 1170 actually has a whole lot in common with its fellow MTD products, Yard Man, Bolens, and Troy Bilt. As a matter of fact, it's nearly identical to the Troy Bilt Super Bronco LT. Sadly, the only thing it has in common with a Cub Cadet is the paint. I was duped into buying an 1170 a couple years ago by my very old widowed great aunt, under the guise that I was buying a Cub Cadet. This tractor is not a Cub Cadet, it's an MTD Cadet, sold by Cub Cadet dealerships as an entry level lawn mower, but not to the standards of a Cub Cadet. That omission of the "Cub" on the hood was not accidental. After picking up the tractor I was initially overjoyed to be the proud owner of a premium lawn tractor, but the more I used it, the more I realized it was no modern marvel. The transmission is automatic, but not hydrostatic. It uses a set of cones which vary the size of a pully to make the wheels spin faster. It's low maintenance, but also very low durability. Do not pull any ground engaging implements, not even an aerator with this tractor or you will ruin it! You can't quickly reverse directions like with a hydrostatic, so make sure you come to a complete stop before shifting into reverse, then take your time. The transaxle will not stand up to quick fore-aft movements. You're right, it does have a cast iron axle, but don't fool yourself into thinking there is anything "tough" about this mower. After a season of mowing and doing other yard chores, I realized the needs I had in refurbishing a lawn (pulling a plug aerator, cartloads of sand...) would destroy this machine, so I sold it and bought a garden tractor. On the plus side, you did get a very good deal. I bought mine from my aunt in like-new condition for the "family price" of $1,000 with 50-60 hours. At the end of the season I sold it "better than new" for the same price with another 20-30 hours (I added tail lights). Of course I didn't point out to the buyer that it wasn't a Cub Cadet, nor did I ever refer to the "Cadet" as a "Cub Cadet." But I have a hunch he believed he was buying a Cub Cadet, just like I did, just like you did. The Troy-bilt version sells for $1299, so you basically got it for half price, a quarter of the way through its service life. I believe the retail price of the tractor a few years ago was $1799, which was a bit of a rip-off for what you got. It can't even be compared to the Cub Cadet 1045 selling for the same price 5-7 years later, with a hydrostatic transmission, 46" deck with 4 anti-scalp wheels, 20hp Kohler... As long as you meticulously maintain this machine, don't wash it after use (use a leaf blower), and do nothing but cut grass, you should get a couple hundred hours out of it. I don't fault my aunt for selling me the tractor (unseen) under false pretenses. She actually thought it was a Cub Cadet. And so will your neighbors!

Thank you both for your responses. I will see if any of those are required at the moment, after I downloaded a few light meter android applications. For the time being I will compromise without the PAR. My android - samsung Galaxy S Advance - an old model was not reporting seemingly correction lux of foot-candles numbers, so therefore I downloaded that applications in my wife's cell phone - a newer model - Samsung Galaxy Note 2 and it seems the numbers look fine as when I take it direct sunlight it shows me 11,900 foot-candles and as I bring it in the shade, they reduce and inside the house they reduce further - coming upto 10 foot candles. I also tried it by keeping on my window and as the sun rose the reading gradually went up from early morning sunrise - 100 fc onward to 2000 fc. No direct sun on my window. The only further thing would be for me to have a comparison with an actual meter. Perhaps one of you could download these 2 android applications and compare its result with the actual meter readings. Here are the links 1/ This one gives both lux and fc readings and has a max reading of around 12000 fc and 129000 lux https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bti.lightMeter&hl=en On your android phone you can search by "Light Meter Borce Trajkovski" 2/ This one has a nice display but only lux reading and only a max of 102000 lux. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=spaceware.lightmeter&hl=en On your android phone you can search by " Light-O-Meter Spaceware" Both have ok to good reviews - especially the first one where comparision with an actual meter have been reported by reviewers to be varying by approx. +/- 5% Thanks again for the input. Saood

Thank you so much, jwv24! I had figured out that the 10X is best used in full sun and it picks up where the meter maxes out on the X1 setting. What I wasn't sure of was which setting is usually used for AV-s. In other words, if I use the X1 setting, and the meter registeres somewhere between 500-1000, does this indicate an adequate amount of light? I assume so because the AV-s want bright light but not direct sun - so I am always using the x1 setting. If I am on the X10 setting and the indicator is barely above 0 (say at 100)...that means we have a 100x10=1000 candles which would be the same as the needle registering at 1000 on the x1 setting - so good. It is my understanding that in order for AV-s to bloom they need a minimum of 500 foot candles ...and ideally between 1000-2000. I am already starting to figure out by the behavior of my AV-s that they probably have been getting too much light where most have been sitting, which is on a stand placed against a south-eastern window where they also receive a few hours of supplemental artificial light, with the light placed about 7-9 inches above them. I wish I was able to lift the light further above the plants but the shelves are not adjustable, so I have reduced the hours instead. Trouble is they also receive some direct afternoon sun, though most of it is filtered by some trees. All in all, it is clear they are getting too much light because as soon as AV-s spend a few weeks there, the crowns start coming in kind of small and tight, stems shorten and leaves curl. I have moved some of them on the lowest shelf of the stand where they don't receive direct light as there is no window at that level...and I have also reduced the artificial light...so we will see if they straighten up. The meter easily registers over 2000 when on the x1 setting. I also have a smaller corner stand right between an eastern and north-eastern vindow (no supplemental light here) but based on what I have noticed, these too seem to be getting more light than they would like. For a few hours, the sun still kind of shines right on them from above, even if it is just morning sun. Being in the South, all summer sun is hot enough sun, I suppose. Things will change though with the colder season coming so my eastern ad south-eastern windows may be just right by the end of September. Thank you again!