In many cases the trees will eventually develop new terminal leader(s). If you remove all but one you will sometimes get a reasonably normal tree that has lost a few years in growing taller. Other times you will get a tree with a strange crooked trunk. It may or may not help the bottom grow denser, no guarantee it will always direct extra growth there. If multiple leaders develop and are left to grow, you will have a weak multi-trunked tree prone to storm damage. Bundles of small seedlings are usually available in bundles of 10 or so for $10-$20 a bundle through many nurseries and soil conservation districts in early spring. They are very small but establish well. Maybe planting more each year at a low cost per tree would give you the option of removing those that do not have good form after a few years of growth. ...I would not want to buy nursery stock that has the terminal bud removed. Not a good way to grow an attractive, healthy tree.

Thank rmkitchen, I love the site too. When i first came across it, the prices seemed so reasonable that I was a little skeptical. But I have been quite happy with the quality, and shipping was not bad. And what I really like is that they have stuff I didn't see anywhere else. Much of it is from a company called Chehoma. I looked high and low for someone local who carries Chehoma but got nowhere. When I had to call Deco et cie with a question, I even got to use some of my high school French. I did see the wire cage fixture, the whacky one with the birds, at ABC Carpet in NYC, for more than twice what I paid. I have that one in my 8yr old DD's room, and she is in love with it. I bought and can vouch for: Suspension NIckel - mudroom, Suspenion poesie - one over each sink in my girls' bath Suspension desir - guest room Lustre voliere demi grande - DD2 bedroom Lustre brindelle 4 lumieres - over my tub, or so i thought Applique crenalieme - DS bedroom Applique josephine - guest room Applique projecteur nickel - DS bathroom I inquired in advance about which ones would work in the US. I think I only rewired the last one. It was maybe $30 to rewire. Here are some of the other sources I have used and been happy with: Il Fanale. Italian products imported by Country Gear of Southampton, NY. SImple lines but a bit unusual. I bought my kitchen and breakfast room pendants there and also fixtures for a bathroom. Prices quite reasonable. http://www.countrygearltd.com/Results.ihtml?c=94&increment=6&step=2&startnum=1&maxvalue=6&m=26 Skinflint UK - If you like the industrial look, they have really cool things. I bought some old ship bulkhead lights, french darkroom lights, real cargo lights, etc. Again, pretty good prices, and he will rewire them for the US. Do note though, that some of these items are very heavy and you may need to reinforce your ceiling to hang them. You may also find that the amount of light they give once rewired is insufficient. The prices are good value for what you are buying, IMHO, but not as inexpensive as Deco et Cie or Il fanale, above. http://www.skinflintdesign.co.uk/store/ceiling_and_wall_lights/ The last one is the budget buster, but oooh they have nice stuff. I bought two of the Chisholm Hall for our entry hall. I also am having them copy a fixture for me. http://www.urbanelectricco.com/#/Collection/By_Category/Ceiling/ PS CALI WENDY - Deco et cie has a sconce like those lights you liked that sold Here is a link that might be useful: cali wendy - sconce for you

You have to understand the physical properties of water on this one and while it is technically true that you have a leak, I doubt very seriously if it is a leak that requires any action on your part. Water reaches maximum density (8.34lbs/gallon)at 39degF and if heated or cooled from that temperature it expands. When heated from maximum density temp of 39degF water undergoes a fairly linear expansion up to about 10% by volume at the boiling temperature and when it flashes to steam it immediately expands another 1628 times by volume (1sq.in of water produces 1sq.ft of steam). The actual boiling temperature and rate of expansion is affected by the working pressure however I don't have the pressure temperature tables immediately at hand, and understanding that the working pressure can vary considerably from one location to another, for the sake of illustration allow us to use numbers that we are all familiar with. Water expands approximately 10% by volume from maximum density (39degF) to boiling temperature, which is 212degF at Standard Atmospheric Pressure) for a total differential of 173degF. Per code, we set our water heaters to 125degF therefore the temperature differential between cold water coming in at maximum density, again 39degF to the set point of 125 = 86degF. From this we can see that the differential between maximum density and the working temperature of our hot water system is approximately 50% of the total differential between maximum density and maximum expansion, therefore if we have a maximum expansion of 10% by volume, we could then say that the expansion in our hot water system is approximately 1/2 the maximum or 5% by volume. No let us put this all in perspective. If you have a 50gallon water heater and you fill it from a cold start with water at 39degF as the water heats up to the 125degF calling temperature the water will expand to approximately 55gal by volume. Under normal circumstances as the water expands the additional volume is compensated by water backflowing through the supply line to the municipal main or the well pressure tank. (This also explains why we are required to install an expansion tank near your water heater whenever we install a pressure reducing valve or a check valve on your water main.) Now in relation to the question at hand, how does air get in the lines? Under normal circumstances if we turn the water heater off the expanded hot water will slowly cool to room temperature thus the expanded hot water will contract. As the water contracts additional water will come in the supply line to maintain the total volume in the hot water system however, the post states that they turn the water heater off and close the house main water valve. Under these circumstances as the expanded hot water cools the supply has been closed off therefore as the hot water contracts it leaves a void in the pipes. We previously concluded that the amount of expansion was approximately 5gal by volume. A 1/2" pipe contains 1 gallon for every 98 linear feet of pipe and a 3/4" pipe contains 1 gallon for every 43.4 feet of pipe thus in all likelyhood 5gal by volume is greater than the total volume of all your hot water pipes in the structure. Now given that the water will contract and flow back to the water heater, the lines are then left with a vacuum and nature abhors a vacuum. Under these circumstances air will enter the pipes through microscopic pores or crevices or through faucet & valve mating surfaces which are no doubt to small to even pass a molecule of water. In this case it is enough to just understand what is happening and there is no further action required.

Twice last week a storm blew in suddenly and knocked some jades off the carts. If it didn't break the pots, it blew the plants right out of the pots! And yes - I was out there in torrential rain grabbing plants and protecting other by wheeling the carts to a safer area. All the plants are safely back in pots and the gritty mix that didn't end up in the pool has been swept up. All is back to normal . . . until I get surprised by another storm! Your plants will be fine. Fun, isn't it?