My Cub Cadet was on fire!
beviesbits
13 years ago
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kompressor
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoewalk
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
looking for info on my 1864 cub cadet
Comments (2)The 1864 uses the Command-18, aka CH-18. You can download the manual from Kohler if you wish. You can order a complete factory service manual set for the tractor from C&G (www.cngco.com) for around $50. They can also provide you with any parts you may need. The 1864 is NOT hard to get parts for. It's the top-end of Cub's non-super garden tractors of that era, and are one of the best ever made. Heavy frames, heavy-duty Sustrand Hydro's, etc... There is nothing cheaply built about this tractor. -Larry...See MoreCub Cadet 1500 series belt issue
Comments (9)The belt and tensioner spring both stretch quite a bit, even though they may look near new. I drilled two new holes for the bolt that holds the outer end of the belt tension spring, about 1" and then 2" further out from the original, following the same "arc" inside the cover mount ridge as the original. Now when I get a new belt, I start in position 1, then two, then three as the belt stretches. I have over 120 hours on the current belt, and used to replace them about every 50 to 60 hours. Having them flap around under-tensioned wears them out quicker, causes them to fly off, and vibrates the dickens out of the mower. Also, be sure the end of the spring that attaches to the tension swing arm is in the correct hole. The spring has a tendency to come off when a belt does, and it may have been put back in the wrong hole....See Morecub cadet lt1042 won't start
Comments (14)Here is what you have proved so far: Fuel system. The non-running state of the engine IS NOT because "the engine is not getting fuel". The shots of carburetor cleaner you administered IS FUEL, and if the non-run was due to a problem in the fuel system of the engine, the engine would have responded to the presence of the carb cleaner "fuel" by eagerly running........for about 1 or 2 seconds for each shot of carb cleaner. Since the engine remains unresponsive even when given an alternate fuel source (carb cleaner shots), lack of fuel can be discounted. Cross fuel off the list. Ignition system. You have stated a couple of times that you believe the ignition system is producing spark. The bang that nearly deafened you (soiled BVDs?) proves that you at least had one instance of spark. So, we might want to presume (for the moment) that the ignition system is OK. Disconnecting the kill wire from the magneto eliminated the possibility that chewed or bare wires were stopping the production of spark. Place a question mark or 2 beside "Ignition system" on your list. You have indicated that you feel little or no compression when you place a thumb over the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand. Do this. (you might need a helper) Move the spark plug wire as far away from the spark plug hole and place your thumb over the spark plug hole. Spin the engine using the starter. There should be enough compression that it takes a bit of effort to keep your thumb held over the hole. If you do not feel the compression trying to push your thumb off the hole.........the engine is not making or holding enough compression to run. If this is what you find, it is time to decide if you want to go further, or whether you would even be able to go further depending on how well equipped you are to perform a cylinder leakage test. Read and study the Kohler service manual page 3.4 about the cylinder leakdown test. Though the Kohler leakdown tester kit is nice, you really don't need that much capability. But you will need a source of compressed air, an adapter fitting for the spark plug hole to mate the compressed air hose to the engine cylinder head, and you must have socket wrenches large enough to fit the flywheel retention nut so the engine cannot move when the compressed air is applied to the engine. If you qualify in regard to the above, and feel confident/mechanically competent enough to do a cylinder leakage test, then you can do one to see why the engine has insufficient compression. E-mail me for a copy of my description of how to do a "poor boy's leakdown test". The poor boy's test still requires the above tools and compressed air, so if you do not have (or can borrow) those, you do not qualify for a DIY leakdown test. Place a "frowny face" next to "Compression" on your list and choose a professional small engine shop for further testing....See MoreWould my Dads old Cub Cadet make a good garden tractor?
Comments (10)I'm not sure exactly what you are implying in your reference to ethanol free fuel and spark knock. Whether the fuel is formulated with ethanol or not, it is the octane rating of the fuel that one needs to be cautious of (regarding the need to control spark knock) if you have a choice of buying ethanol laced fuels, or ethanol free. I have doubts about a 1980s engine having a compression ratio high enough to require use of anything above 87 octane rating. The real concerns of ethanol blended fuels is that some rubber parts of the fuel system components might not fare very well in the presence of ethanol, plus the fact that ethanol blended fuels DO tend to collect more water vapor from the atmosphere (through tank vent respiration) and precipitate that out later on. Your vintage of engine might in fact benefit from keeping ethanol away from its rubber fuel system parts as ethanol blended fuels were well below the OEM radar back them days. Most of the issues due to ethanol attacking certain rubber parts has been addressed by OEMs improving ethanol resistance in the latest rubber compounds they use for making their parts. As to the extra water..........about the only way to guard against that becoming a problem is to not store large amounts of fuel for extended periods of time. One way to keep from having extra fuel on hand for the OPE fleet is top off the fuel tank as far as it can be filled at the time of dead-lining the machine for the off season. A completely full tank respires less volume of atmosphere when ambient temperatures fluctuate. After doing that, any fuel you have left over should be poured into your car or truck fuel tank for daily driving....See Morercmoser
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