I came across this thread by searching for the same answer a lot of others on here are seeking. After reading the entire page, I had to join to point out an observation in regards to rusyj14's comment that "Occasionally, the help doesn't work, mainly because the help seekers can't follow instructions" But, the fact is, the seekers Are following instructions. No disrespect meant, as I see many have resolved their problem with your help. But the others that are still at square one have done as instructed. They have repeatedly stated those instructions back, as to what they had done, but with no fix. And as you also mentioned for them to do, they Are here asking for help, but it seems their posts are going unanswered. From someone who at the age of 10, or younger, got his hands on his first lawn mower with instructions from his Dad to only tear it apart to see what was inside, with a Tecumseh that had sat out in the weather since who knows when, with a crankcase full of rain water, but defied his Dad and got it running to have it mow his grass for the next six or more years, I've been accustomed to getting things running. But having already done what all others on here have suggested before finding this thread, I am leaning towards the flywheel magnets having somehow lost their strength. It is the only part not bought new to replace. I thought I had read somewhere else that someone was able to compare the strength between a good set of magnets and weak ones by use of a fish scale and how much it took to pull away from it, but I couldn't find it again. I'll be completely dumbfounded if a new correct flywheel does not solve my issue either, as I've mentioned, it is the only part I have not yet bought to have everything brand new with regards to the ignition system. If I had a shop nearby that could magnetize it, I would go that route, but it will be cheaper to purchase a new one than to invest in the shipping and shop time to have it done.

I grow lots of roses in pots. We have a deck where they can be enjoyed better up close. Over the years, I find it essential to pay attention to the following details: 1. Watering. Inconsistent watering is probably a container rose's worse enemy. I have a dripper system with a timer - I can set the timer to water once every few days, or a few times a day. Over the hottest days of summer, it's at least 3 times a day of watering. 2. Feeding - it's true, with all that watering, fertiliser leaches out quickly. My container roses get an application of slow release pellets (3 month) in the spring. The conditions in containers invariably mean that even the control release pellets doesn't last three months - I give it a second application after the first flush. The dripper irrigation system is hooked up to a siphoning system which adds a weak dilution of soluble fertiliser into the water - I get this system started once they are at the peak of blooms. 3. Drainage and aeration. Which invariably means repotting once every two years for containers less than 5 gallons, and 3 yearly for containers 5 gallons or larger. 4. Keeping the roots cool. I suspect that this is a bigger problem than we think. I have documented soil temperatures as high as 40-50 degrees C in pots exposed to late morning sun. A pot-in-pot system seems to be effective in keeping the media cool. 5. Keeping the size of the roses appropriate for the size of the containers. For me, the limiting factor is the size of the containers. Large containers are too heavy and cumbersome to be lugging them up and down the stairs. I any case, I worry that I may overdo it and overload the deck to beyond it's engineered weight capacity. So, I am mindful of keeping the plants from outgrowing their containers by careful pruning. For the same reason, I select the roses carefully. Most of them are miniatures (which seem to thrive better in containers where they don't have to compete with other plants for sunlight and sustenance), the smaller HT's and shrubs. What the above adds up to is that it needs a lot more work than planting the roses in the ground, and often for less blooms. But if you need your roses up close, then, nothing beats having them in containers. One more thing I have learnt is that the mortality rates in container grown roses is much higher than those in the ground. So, I treat them as "throwaway" plants. I.e., I won't grow the only specimen of my most treasured rose in a container - it will get a spot in the garden ASAP. But I accept having to replace the container roses on a regular basis. I don't shed any tears on the miniatures - they are cheap, and there are so many varieties that it's fun to try new ones on a regular basis. Other roses are usually rooted off what I have in the garden. I usually have several rooted "copies" of my favourite container roses on standby to replace sick, dying or dead one's.

There is only ONE adjustment screw and that is supposed to be for IDLE only. I do not engage mower blades at IDLE, only at higher RPM. The new coil is junk. Will have another new coil Mon or Tues. Now have intermitent spark on one side, weak spark on other side. Old coil is corroded through in one area. I'm still trying to figure out how most are saying it's a carb mixture problem when there is nothing to adjust, and idle speed isn't the problem. I still say it's the coil...we shall see. All this trouble over this engine and not getting much gardening done! Invested a lot in this machine. New blades, belts, engine parts, plus a new cultivator and hitch system. I need it to be working....just only so much I can do with little money. Very exasperated now. Neighbor down the road has 2 MTD riders for $50. Or 1 1/2 rather. Engines are different but still Briggs. No idea how bad those are...or if one of those would even mount since they are single cylinder and mine is a twin. 16 hp on the one I believe. Thanks for bearing with me on this and your suggestions.

Thanks for the information. Got it all figured out except for the white wire. It's grounded, but in both positions on or off?????? Going to poke around some more maybe I got a bad stwich or circuit board????. I'm fixing any little problems I run across also. When I took the PTO clutch off from the crank I found the wires had been chafing the drive belt. Caught it just in time Bare wires on both wires was showing. patched that up.