what is your watering protocol .... 15 inches of rain from June 1 to 15 - none since. how big are the trees 12ft high?? planted last year - first June in our yard. were they properly planted? yes

I am located in Northeastern OK. we are considered to be on the boundry between USDA zones 6b and 7. The first two years these originally planted bareroot 6 foot tall trees experienced severe droughts. The trees are planted in water packed silty loam soil in a low spot on my vacant lot. The water table is pretty high in that area and rain runoff collects on the surface in that area when we have heavy and/or soaking rains. Other than that, I have no piped in or well water access on the lot, so they have had to survive on whatever rains fell. As you can imagine they really stuggled. Earlier this year, they leafed out nicely and seemed to be turning the corner, until the Easter freeze hit; after they had already leafed out. They were not strong enough to handle the hit, and each of their single trunks died back significantly. The trunks were only about two inches thick at the time. Since the green just under the bark was only about 3 feet up after the freeze damage, I cut the trunks of the two worst damaged ones down to just above the root flare. The one in between those two seemed stronger so I only cut it back to about two feet above the ground. Later that middle one's trunk died, but a new trunk grew up out of the tree's rootball. Now my single trunked Birch tree is about 4 feet tall, and I have not pruned away any of the leaf growth to leg it up. For the two other birches, the ones I had cut back to just above the root flare. They turned into clumps and each regrew three healthy and strong growing trunks. Currently those trunks have grown to about 3 feet tall, and both trees look more like a shrub than a tree, since I have not done any leg clean pruning of the leaves on them either. All spring and even now into summer our area has received heavy and frequent rains; along with many overcast sky days. Our area is just south of the tragic flooding events that recently occured in Northern OK and Southern KS. We are also quite a ways north of the tragic flooding which has recently occured in central and southern OK and northern Texas. The point I am trying to make, is that these birch trees for the first time since they have been planted have not been stressed by drought, but they have been growing in 2- 4 inch deep standing water for extended periods this Spring and Summer. Due to the wet year we are having, I expect the trees to grow to at least 6 feet tall again, before they go dormant when I plan to transplant the two. My question? Is it reasonable for me to think I can move these two trees into pots and not kill the remaining one. I want to over winter the ones I transplant to pots that I plan to bury in the ground. Then just prior to them breaking dormancy in the spring I want to replant them into their landscape spots which will have supplimental watering access. As for my original post's intended question: since birch trees have more of a surface growing root pattern, will there be any purpose to root prune the two I want to move? If so, when would be the best time to do that?

Yes, I have seen the three tree method that some growers use to produce multi trunk ornamental trees. I even planted a paperbark maple tree that had been handled like that. One of the paperbark trunks dominated and the other two died off each at different times. It did not seem to matter what I did to try and save those, they still died while the dominant one thrived as if no stressors of any kind existed for it. Also planting three young trees together is the technique I myself had tried to get a multi trunked River Birch tree. Five years later, one of those trunks thrived and now has a 3 inch wide trunk with beautifull pealing bark, and which has grown to about 10 feet tall. The other two trunks are currently about 4 feet shorter, also with some bark pealing and with only about 1 inch in trunk diameter. This drastic imbalanced look is why I dug the two shorter trunks, and now have them in bare root form. I have seen other reports of people having success at growing a new single main leader by the cutting back nearly to the ground of the damaged main leader. Of course those damaged trees are usually fairly well established. So I do not know why I could not do the same thing with my single trunked birch trees. That is, as long as I do it at the right re-established root development point. Is this truely a bad idea? I do think that my trees are nearly twice as mature than what past growers generally used for clumping out multi trunk birches, but if I do not begin the process to eventually prune out the current one inch wide trunks for these two trees; they too will likely dominate too much over any new sprouts which I might get to pop up out of each of their own root balls. I have also seen what you suggested concerning the trunks of clumps spreading to far; that is on a neighbor's birch that has only two leader trunks, and which is almost 30 years old. Is my only other option to keep them as single trunked trees. Is this delima, also why I have had such a difficult time finding young multi-trunked Heritage birch trees at my local nurseries. Also am I wrong in thinking a three trunked rootball would tend to grow more slowly and end up with less height potential if all three trunks emerging from one rootball grew at a relatively well balanced rate, and no trunk is allowed to remain, which seemes to so drastically dominate over the other two.

Yes, birch-any type of birch-are not particularly known for damage to foundations, etc. I'd say that is extremely unlikely. As for shallow rootedness, that's really how trees grow, period. True, as Maine said, compacted, poorly aerated soil exacerbates the tendency but it's really just how trees grow. Heavy branch removal will actually cause some root die-back-the top-most portions of the tree actually control root growth via hormones which are produced in growing tips and sent down to the roots to tell them to grow. But....massacring the tree so as to slow down root growth seems utterly pointless to me. And then, because branch removal will cause the tree to make lots of new branches, in time, the shoot/root ration will go right back to what it was. We're talking futility here....don't go there. You just have to decide for yourself what you can tolerate. If it was me, I didn't read one single thing that would be a problem in my world. I love trees and if a few roots run along the surface, it is of no consequence to me. You seem to be in a different place, so you must decide. I sure wouldn't remove trees because of anything I've read here.