I recently found with my kohler 12.5 command and no cranking but would just click, it was the little black box in rear of of tractor by battery on left side. The wires in and out are red. It has two 90 degree black rubber boots connected to it and the terminals in them were rusted and broken I also replaced the relay, found on amazon, cost about $19.95 Now starts awesome. There is also a fuse under the black plastic cover by the ignition switch that blows, and a fuseable Linc that burns out on the red wire on black relay box on right side rear back by battery, check fuesable Linc on both sides of a little diode that is in line no power on one side..it's bad and replace! But now I am struggling with the engine dying after 30 minutes of running. And mine has fresh tune up, with filters, and oil change and filter. I will figure it out and keep every one posted. Mike

"Big looking brute" --------------------- yeah it is rather substantial for lawn mowing ... But I didnt buy it solely for lawn mowing purposes... I will say the guy had quiet a few of these things stashed away and if I had the choice I might have gotten the 22x model instead. Mostly because I felt I didnt really need to climb up onto a big @ss brute GT (just a brute GT would have sufficed) . For the first couple of days afterward - I felt a little bit like Arnold Schwarzenegger driving around on the Humvee of garden tractors. I think that the 22x probably would have done me nicely. However the size of the machine wouldnt have changed, just the height - So I went forward with the purchase on the 444. They sure are a rugged machine - this morning I was out there and started it up to move it. Letting it warm up a bit - I was amazed at that cast iron Kohler motor and how it idles so lowww - you can almost count the revolutions as it fires. (they dont make em like that anymore). "GT engineering for granted" ------------------------------- I do believe that as well... I dont think the engineers are designing tractors so much as they are designing something with a predetermined life time... Instead of selling quality product, parts and services - they sell junk that needs to be replaced every few years. Its almost as if these guys should be taken to a tractor junkyard and shown what heavy duty really looks like, as opposed to making Sears tractors with plastic bumpers (to add automotive styling). Its a shame we (USA) cant build cars of this quality. Id be willing to pay a bit more for a truck that didnt have to have its tranny changed out 3 times over the course of a 119k miles. (and it didnt even get worked hard ). Let us prey that the bankruptcy procedures remove the chaff from the wheat within GM and Chrysler. Dave

The questions from a previous post are answered - But which is "real"? Does the tractor have a cast-iron steering sector and front axle assembly? My 1996 John Deere GT275 has a Stamped Steel Front Axle Assembly! My 2002 Craftsman DLT2000 has a Cast Iron Front Axle Assembly! Does it have a welded frame made of solid metal, or a stamped sheet metal frame? My 1996 John Deere GT275 has a Stamped Steel Frame with rear Fenders and Dash Assembly Spotwelded to the Frame! My 2002 Craftsman DLT2000 has a Stamped Steel Frame with rear Fenders and Dash Assembly Bolted to the Frame! Does it have a real draw bar or a funky piece of bent metal? Both GT275 and DLT2000 have a piece of bent steel for a Drawbar the Craftsman appeaars to be thicker but I did not use micrometers to check! If its really important I can check and post the results. Does it have the ability to support a sleeve hitch and/or 3 point hitch? Both GT275 and DLT2000 have the ability for a Sleeve Hitch Attachment DOes it have provisions for PTO supported accessories such as a snow blower or tiller? Both GT275 and DLT2000 will support these accessories! How big are the wheels? The GT275 has 23" wheels on rear will have to check front size! The DLT2000 has 20" wheels on rear will have to check front size! If its really important I can check tire sizes on both and post the results. Answers to the above questions will pretty well determine if it is "real" or not. Not sure any modern Cubs qualify, though certainly many of the older ones do. Many JD's qualify as do older "Classic Series" Toro Wheel horse as well as C Series Wheel Horse products. In addition to the above; The John Deere has a combined Choke/Throttle! The Craftsman has a separate Choke and Throttle! The John Deere has idiot lights for battery charging indication! The Craftsman has a ampmeter gauge for battery charging indication! The John Deere does not have any indication of time use! The Craftsman has a hour gauge for indication of time use! Both GT275 and DLT2000 have Electric PTO clutches! Both GT275 and DLT2000 have pedal operated hydrastatic transaxles! The GT275 is Green and Yellow! The DLT200 is Red, Black and Silver! Been working in the sun today, extremely hot out there must have damaged the thought process, its still not clear what the questions and comparisions mean, other than the GT275 is rated as a GT and the DLT2000 is rated as a LT. The morning comes early maybe get to work earlier and quit sooner be in the cooler part of the day. Goodnight and sweet dreams BTW What can I compare my JD 2040 to, I want determine if its real since it has a German name plate? Oh yeh, its really Green and Yellow.

Because you're still wrestlin' with the problem, I'm gonna throw in another 2 cents - so, you're into me for 4 cents, now. wavinwayne is right about the JD network. Deere supports their equipment for a long time after manufacture of any given model ceases. My Deere dealer is primarily in business for agriculture, but has had in stock every part for my old STX-38's that I've ever needed. And their prices have never been out of line, that I can tell. Can't speak about Sears support. But keep in mind that most of the parts you're going to need are available from a variety of places - belts, filters, blades, an occasional battery or tire, and engine parts (which will be from Briggs, or Kawasaki, or Kohler - not the tractor manufacturer.) Deere, Husqvarna, MTD - none of them actually make the parts that I've listed. They buy the engines, transmissions, belts, tires, batteries, etc. from suppliers, and these things are available from nearly any lawn equipment repair shop. Still, there may be a requirement to replace some part that must come from the manufacturer. jopopsy recommends the Snapper rear-engine rider. For the size and description of your property, I think the Snapper RER would be an excellent machine. I didn't recommend it in my first response because you said you wanted to pull an aerator. Except for that, the Snapper would have been my first recommendation (note that this is an opinion). My 96-year-old mother has a Snapper RER that is at least 30 years old, and still plugging along (both my mother and the mower). That old machine has seen more use and abuse than any lawn mower I've ever seen. I've said before, the Snapper RER aint purty, and it ain't sexy - what it is is one hell-for-stout lawn mower. I don't think you'll go wrong with any of the machines mentioned so far. If there is a Lowe's near you, go by and take a look at the Husqvarna that they sell for $1499 - it appears to me to be an excellent buy at that price. If there's a Husqvarna dealer in the neighborhood, he'll probably have it at the same price.