If it's smaller I would remove the tree. Here in Florida Camphors are considered as Category I species on the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council (FLEPPC) list of invasive species. FLEPPC considers Category I plants invasive exotic species that displace or disrupt native plant communities, alter the ecology of the environment, or hybridize with native species (ref University of Florida, IFAS). I have a large one in my yard that I inherited with the house and I spend days pulling seedlings from my flower beds. I regret that I didn't remove the tree 12 years ago when we moved in :-(

I hear what you're saying, Mike. I understand :-) I'm a Master Gardener. And yes, where I live is pretty much ideal for citrus and avocadoes (which is why I'm surrounded by 100's of acres of both, that haven't been mowed down by subdivisions, that is.) I live in the "land of citrus and avocado orchards". Everyone has a citrus tree in their yard out here, or 2 or 3 or 20 :-) A few will put them in a pot on their patio as a novelty, or if they live in a condo. I live just a few miles south of Fallbrook, California, where they have more avocado orchards than anywhere else in the United States. And, where avocs can grow, so can citrus, their requirements are nearly the same. And, replacing my thinner DG soil with compost isn't really necessary, as long as I do some minor amending when I plant the hole for initial root establishment, and then top dress with compost once a year. We also use mulch here for water retention, so between compost in the well, and 3 to 4" of bark mulch, that's all we need as far as organic soil components. And by limiting the hole to 1/2 amended soil or less, you will prevent the "container-syndrome" you can get, if you replace ALL the native soil with something not native (like 100% potting soil or compost). What it does is allow the soil to hold a wee bit more moisture so the roots can get established, but not so overly attractive that is causes the roots to just want to grow in the hole. It is the recommended method in my specific area of S. California, N. San Diego county for folks on DG. We have many different soil strata here, almost as many as our infamous California microclimates :-) Here's what Dave Wilson recommends for fruit tree planting, and Tom Spellman, their S. California salesman, who is highly respected in S. California, especially for citrus, says about how to plant a fruit tree, see link below. And, every citrus nursery in my area recommends 1/2 amendment to our DG soil as well. So, I feel pretty confident about our planting regime, and have had excellent results with this, living in S. California for 55 years (except the 13 years I spent in N. Indiana and Maryland). Haven't had a single tree become root-bound using this method. And, as far as coffee grounds go, the jury is still out on that. Probably won't hurt anything, but studies still have not supported the benefit of coffee grounds. Here's a good article to read about that, written by Linda Chalker-Scott, Washington State University Exension Urban Horticulturalist. Her CV is longer than my arm, so I feel pretty comfortable with her "myth busters" articles. She is fun to read, and her advice is helpful for us gardening on the West Coast: http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Coffee%20grounds.pdf Here's a peek at most of my citrus. I have most planted up on the top of this north side of my back yard. It's kind of hard to tell by the perspective, but this area holds 13 different citrus trees and 3 different fig trees. The slope now has 6 different pomagranates, as well. In the center is my Meyer Improved lemon, which despite some neglect, has survived, has significantly improved, and is now full of about 100 very ripe and gorgeous lemons: And the backyard continuing south (the abandoned orange orchard is directly behind my back fence in the far background): And a shot of the backyard just to the north of the first photo, where I have a row of around 8 to 10 producing olive trees along the top of the slope: And a closer look at the citrus up on this slope. I am getting ready to re-mulch, as you can see my very active Aussie has worn a "trail" across the top of my slope, as he "patrols" for coyotes. So, we're just going to lay down some flagstone along the path he's created, which is how we walk between the trees anyway. You can see some of my drip lines, as well as the phermone traps for our lovely CLM, which is plaguing us out here in S. California: Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: Dave Wilson Nursery: How to Plant a Tree

Foliar feeding bypasses the roots. With potted plants the PH of the feed solution is more important than the PH of your soil. If your soil is too acidic then adding small amounts of lime will do the trick. Because you are entering summer you could Make up a larger mix of 5-1-1 and plant it in a larger pot. The roots will spread out farther as if it is in ground and be more prepared for its new permanent home when you and your tree move huge root mass from huge pot on small tree to go in ground. She started putting on a lot of new shoot in 2 weeks. For me up north of the equator, the tree went in just as hard frosts "-7C" were approaching. Time yours for summer and you'll do much better.

How often should I be fertilizing? I'm going by what's on the box, and it doesn't seem to be hurting my others near as much. I don't want to overdo it and burn them up either. Not worried about the tree not being true to the parent seed... I grow these in my classroom just for the fun of it. Never intend to get fruit off of any of them anyway. We have 20 species growing there right now of various things (papaya, lemons, couple different kinds of mango, three different kinds of grapefruit, dragonfruit, etc). Usually end up keeping one for myself and just giving the rest away at the end of the year.