I really like the 350, I have two of them. Versatile little saws. What you describe is what people tell me happens to them when I let them borrow the saws without supervision. They are VERY touchy saws and easy to flood. But it sounds like a perfectly working saw since it's cutting well after starting. It could just be a starting procedure problem. Try this; 1. If the saw is warm (you shut it off less than 10 minutes ago) then just press up on the red kill switch and start it. 2. If it's been off for only 20 minutes or so, pull out the blue choke lever and push it back in. Don't touch the trigger. This will leave it in fast idle; start it and let it run on fast idle for 5-10 seconds. 3. On a COLD SAW (this sounds like your problem): a) pull out blue choke b) unlock the chain brake (saw on ground, hold it with your foot on the handgrip) c) press the fuel bulb about 5 times (more doesn't hurt, it just circulates) d) pull the recoil till it "stumbles": IT WILL NOT START and DO NOT PULL AGAIN after this. It will only do this stumble one time. If it's winter (32F) it may run 1-2 seconds and die. DON'T PULL THE RECOIL AGAIN. This is very important. Even one pull extra will flood it as you describe. e) Push in the blue choke and do not touch the trigger. If you touch the trigger it turns off the 'high idle'. f) Pull the recoil and start it. It should not take more than 5 pulls. DON'T touch the trigger even after it starts. g) Let it run on high idle with the chain spinning for 5-10 seconds. h) Now you can pull the trigger and use it normally. Steps (d) and (g) sound like the missing steps in your starting sequence. You shouldn't need to monkey around with the sparkplug to start it. It's touchy I know, but if you get used to it you will probably like the 350, it's a great saw.

Good chance that backfire caused the engine's flywheel key to partially/fully shear, throwing timing off. If you are sure of good fuel flow and presence of spark, would download the free service manual from the Kohler website for that engine and give it a go - if you are the shadetree mechanic type. OTW,, shop time. If you do pull the flywheel, make sure all is pristine clean before reassembling and torque to spec...good luck.

Blower is taking 3 - 5 pulls to start when it used to take 1-2. I pulled the spark plug and it has changed to very light shade of tan and was previously a darker shade, indicating a leaner mixture. There are air bubbles in the primer and takes 10x to remove most but not all bubbles. Primer does not appear to have any leaks. A quick check of the fuel lines in the tank look OK, there is no obvious rot. Blower is 4 1/2 years old with 160 hrs. Should I just change out the primer bulb and fuel lines to eliminate possibility of small leak? Any other typical places to check this blower with a walbro wya79 carb?

If what you report is accurate, You can't have voltage on one side of the starter solenoid and not on the other when it's energized (Key in START, not RUN) unless it's contacts are bad. Sounds like a bad solenoid. Take a jumper wire and jump Baterry + to the starter side of the solenoid and if the engine spins, that's a bad solenoid. The noise you initially hear is probably the solenoid on carb energizing to admit gas. You'll have to consult the wiring schematic for the machine to see how the switches are wired. Used to be simply closing a circuit would allow starting, not any more. Ev