I found a handbook & have listed the link below: Management - cultural and biological controls Crop rotation is an important tool for wireworm control. Wireworms tend to increase rapidly among red and sweet clover and small grains (particularly barley and wheat). Birds feeding in recently plowed fields destroy many wireworms. However, in seriously infested fields this does not reduce the overall pest population below economic levels. To date, field tests of entomopathogenic nematodes in wireworm infested fields show they do not effectively control wireworms. There are no parasites or biological insecticides known to be effective in wireworm control, but research is ongoing in this area. Management - chemical control: HOME USE 1. Organic oils such as clove oil, cinnamon and thyme oils. Here is a link that might be useful: PNW Insect Management handbook page for Irish potatoes

Two citrus trees: Clementine x Yuzu hybrid (so-called "Ten Degree Tangerine") Satsuma x Changsha hybrid mandarin planted it out in March, when it was full of foliage and beginning to fruit, but the temperatures were too prolonged cool/cold that early in the year and it died back and all the leaves fell off, except for one lone leaf coming out of the bottom. It has now begun to push out a little bit of growth from the bottom, although most of the branches are dead. probably wasn't a good idea to move it outside right as it was fruiting, or should have waited another month or two. Olympia, WA consider that that's actually just a tiny bit further north in latitude than Duluth, Minnesota, or even Quebec City, Canada. As you can see in the pictures, these are both in the ground (havn't actually gone through the Winter yet, but I have a Satsuma in a plastic sheet enclosure and a very small Yuzu that did make it through the Winter, altgough it was a very mild Winter in the PNW this year. The PNW climate is pretty different from Southeast, where many other people are experimenting with cold-hardy citrus. There are extreme long stretches of cold/cool temperatures throughout half the year, but the tiny amount of freeze we do get rarely gets very cold. The cool marine influence leads to a very stable climate, no storms to bring in freezing cold air. Of course it's a pretty short growing season for citrus. I'd say the temperatures don't really begin warming up to what citrus needs untl mid-May or June (although it stays warm till around September, not that cold in October either). I've read some reports around here that people have managed to keep Meyer Lemons alive outside in the ground in a warm spot, typically south side against the wall of a house with lots of sun and wind protection, although they suffer a lot of damage in the winter. The two (rare) varieties shown in those pictures have more cold hardiness than Meyer Lemon.

bboy is absolutely right. Mildew comes with dry soil. Squash are James Dean plants - they like to live fast and die young - you just don't want them to die too young. If the soil is too dry or too nutrient-poor the plants will struggle and get mildewy. It can happen in dry summer weather also. Keep them growing vigorously and you shouldn't have that problem. I usually set plants started in peat pots out around June 1. That is pretty marginal for some of the longer maturing squash in Puyallup. I should probably set them out just a bit earlier and cover them at night, but I'm not always around to uncover the plants if it gets too warm. Cooking the plants under a cover will kill them even faster than the cold nights.

I use paths like this in many of my designs......they work very well in the wetter weather we can experience here :-) I would recommend using a rigid edging material to confine the rocks - without it, they will mysteriously manage to migrate throughout the garden! And laying hardscaping is one of th few times I DO recommend using a landscape fabric and is a practice my contractor favors as well. It will help to prevent the rock from becoming permanently embedded into the soil (should you chose to move/remove the path at some point) and it also will help to deter any weedy growth that may be lurking in the ground. I would go with the 1/4" minus for the base but favor a larger rock for the topping. 1/4" minus will compact very firmly, almost like decomposed granite, and in doing so will limit permeability - you can develop puddling. The larger topping (suggest 5/8") will provide a better draining surface.