It should be fine but if you feel better rapping it do so especially if it gets sun all day.

Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

Which rap songs would be best for a crabapple tree? Tree shouldn't die if OK except for being barked - and you give it what it needs after planting (watering etc.). If you planted it with burlap etc. still on, dig it back up and take those off.

bboy&bullthissel,thanks for answering so quick,

No,we did not plant with the burlap,funny thing is,this tree came from a hospital landscaping,planted by some landscaping company,they left the burlap on,the twine cramping all the roots together,and the heavy duty wire around the roots,we do not know much about taking care of trees,or planting them,that is why i posted here,but we did think all that stuff should be removed,so we did.
We watered real well after planting.
Do you think i should remove the cocoons?
If you don't mind me asking just one more question,there are several branches crossing over each other,will it hurt to prun these at this time of year?

You are very kind to help us out with these questions,gotta save them trees. :0)

Carol

Leave the pruning until after tree has settled in and is growing well. Many crabapple have naturally wild-looking or congested growth habits and trying to organize them into stereotypical shapes results in excessive pruning and production of water sprouts. Often the main effect is a big bouquet of flowers (and maybe fruits later) with the branch pattern not being as much of a feature (depending on how you see it).

Hormones from opening winter buds prompt new roots to grow from cut root ends, energy from branches stored over winter feeds this growth. This makes it counterproductive to do much top pruning at planting time. A few small branches that look like they might rub or really don't seem to belong could of course be taken out - keeping above in mind. The pruning and training of trees varies with the kind, forcing a crabapple into a preconceived idea of a tidy, branch pattern may not produce good results. Also there is the matter of this being a comparatively large specimen, it may already have been pretty much trained in a particular manner by the production nursery. Severe pruning to develop a specific structure is usually limited to small specimens, but this is another thing that varies with the kind.

Thank you bboy

I did take off two small branches that were broken,i will leave it alone now.

I appreciate your help. :0)

Carol

Carol, if you haven't yet done so, do mulch, with any natural material - avoid pine bark if the crabapple is planted on a slope as the bark pieces can float way in heavy rain - as widely as possible (at least 3' diameter, more is better), no deeper than 4", and no mulch in the inch or 2 next to the trunk. Don't put any plastic or landscape cloth under the mulch - it ends up looking awful in a few years, and does nothing for the tree. You will probably need to replenish the mulch, and maybe extend the area, annually.

I would water it well for the next week or so, if your soil isn't heavy clay, as the tree has had a hard time and may be stressed, and then water it only when the soil in the root ball or right next to the root ball is dry (under the mulch) - stick a finger in to the second knuckle, or use a pointed dowel, and only water when the soil down 2" or so is dry. If it is still moist, then wait for a day or two - depending on HOW moist - and if it is dry, water. You want the water to get to the bottom of the root ball, so long, slow watering is MUCH better than a quick spritz with the hose - relying on the water system for the lawn will NOT give enough water for at least the first 2 years - it may be fine after then. Do not rely on a schedule to water - which is, I know, a pain to remember - but water needs can vary according to how sandy or clay-y the soil is, how hot the temperatures are, how sunny or cloudy or windy it has been, all of which take NO account of a schedule. Eventually, you will get a feel for how much water is needed, how often, and won't have to check as often. You are responsible for all watering (if there has been less than an inch of rain in the past week - if that much or more, relax, nature did it for you) for the first 2 years - you can start to taper off toward the end of the second year, but still water even in the third year in extended dry periods. You won't, naturally, have to water in winter, but if there is little precipitation going into Dec./Jan., and the ground isn't yet frozen, you may still need to water - you might not, also, so check.

Wow dibbit,

What a nice respond,i am pretty good at keeping things watered,i did,however, for get the mulch,so i will do that today,we had a nice quiet,slow rain all day yesterday,i will do the knuckle test and water as needed.Thank you so much,i am excited to see what color this tree will be.

Carol

where are you ??

what is the soil???

first... more leaves.. means more food production.. means more root growth and faster 'establishment' .. per bboys suggestion.. leave most there for a year or two ..

second ... and i think of it this way ... wounded branches require the tree to spend energy to repair itself ... so remove any broken branches .. nice clean PROPER CUTS ...

third... crabs are weeds ... i give you ONLY a 99% chance of success .. lol ...

4th .... most are grafted.. all sprouts that come out of the ground at the trunk are not the tree above.. and should be removed ... they are SUCKERS ...

5th ... i got 5 .... 2 inch caliper crabs with such scrapes going 1/2 way around the tree ... that is why they were free .. all lived ... and prospered.. my method was simple.. clean up the wound with a razor blade ... and then ignore them for 5 years [but for water] ... think of a skip flap.. and how if a small flap is left.. it will never heal ... whereas if you remove the little flap.. it will begin healing ASAP ...

water deeply .. and infrequently .. water when the soil is drying when you stick your finger in the soil past the 2nd knuckle ...

in my zone 5.. if i plant and water something today ... with cool spring/rain/etc ... YOU MAY NOT WATER AGAIN UNTIL JUNE... if you mulch properly...

how water moves in your soil is only known by your finger ...

YOU WILL CAUSE MORE HARM BY IMPROPER WATERING... than by too little water in my estimate ...

you did good ... dont worry about it.. dont kill it with too much love ... ken

PS: hosta do extremely poorly under anything in the apple family .... suggestion based on your name ....