I don't know how similar the linkage is to mine on a GX345 for a 42" blower. On mine I first hook the rear of the main linkage bars over the trunnion pins on my frame and lock them in place. I then lift the front of the snowblower up and slip a couple of pieces of scrap 2x4 on edge under the blower. It then is very easy to hook up the turnbuckle-bolts that lift the snowblower.

grandm1, True, the only blade that will allow manual angling from the cab is the 48", part BM19415. It is not designed specifically for the GT235, it will fit just about every late model Deere garden tractor through GX series. But you need to note that while the blade that fits the GT series will also fit the older 240/325 series, the blade that was made specifically for the 240/325 and family (BM18130)will NOT fit the GT series due to clearance issues on the GT undercarriage. Here are some pictures to clear things up. First, I must mention that the really big difference between the 42/44" and 48" blades are the 42" just mounts to the front frame of the tractor, then has two braces which attach to the mid-frame to provide additional support. It pivots on the front frame mount. The braces are just there to prevent the front tractor frame from bending. The 48" blade has its own frame, like a snowblower. It mounts to the same point mid frame, and unlike the 42", it pivots on those mid-frame mounts. This is certainly a more rugged design, and the blade is less likely to ride up on ice due to the pivot being further back. To use the 48 blade, you need to get the front lift kit for the GT series, which uses the front section of the tractor's frame to mount a jackshaft which will lift the front part of the 48" blade's frame via a tie-rod clamped to the deck lift handle. This is the same lift setup used with the 42" snowblower. This is the front lift kit: (you will not need parts 1,2,3, your tractor already has that D-hole incorporated in the frame. Hopefully I haven't confused you. Now that I've shed light on the two bracing systems: if you find a 48" blade for sale online (used), and it has a straight frame, it is made for the 240/265/325 tractors. It will not work with your GT tractor. See pic: You need this frame: This frame (the bent one) will work with any of the tractors. The two holes in the back near the J-hooks are for the 240/265/325 tractors. The GT series use the front holes (as shown) with the front lift kit). All these diagrams are on the JD parts catalog, linked below. Go to "Equipment Search" and type in "Blade" then scroll down to the 42, 44, 46, 48 front blade and click on "sectional index" to see the breakdowns. Do you have a foot or hand lift? If you have a hand lift, that other blade I mentioned will work with the right mounting parts. I mounted my GT's 42" blade to my old 111H before I found one online specifically for it which included the braces and rear frame weights (for $50). The 42 inchers are all compatible, like I said, you just need to buy the proper braces and mounting hardware. You'll still need to buy the blade angle kit from Deere. That's something like $180 new. You might find a 48 blade for sale which has it mounted, but it's unlikely. I've been looking for one for my Dad for about a year and only saw one, which went for the retail price when you count shipping. If you have any more questions, ask. I've spent quite a bit of time researching compatibility of the GT series, and it's paid off, having found a like-new 42" blade for my GT225 for $100, and a pair of new-in-box 42" snowblowers for both my GT225 and my GT262 for a total of $300 (plus $50 in gas to have my brother pick them up). In both cases, the sellers didn't think they'd fit my tractors. In both cases, they did. Here is a link that might be useful: jd parts

Have fun. I couldn't resist and had to knock it down already. I put off cleaning the garage.

How long it lasts depends on what you do to it and what you can afford. In general a higher quality tractor even within a brand line will last longer then a cheaper tractor. Even John Deere makes some green tin cans! Most all tractors will last a few years if stored indoors and serviced properly. Once upon a time I laughed at the notion of power steering on a lawnmower. Now I would not buy one without it. Foot controls are also a huge difference. With the same size machine ps and foot controls cut my mowing time in half! I mow for hundreds of hours in a year because I have a tree farm. If I only had a lawn to mow and a drive to clear such things might not be as important. Pull behind attachments fit most any machine. Spreaders, wagons, rollers, and such just hook to the draw bar so brand is not very important. A John Deere thrower will fit many John Deere machines within its class. The snowthrower that fits my JD garden tractor will not fit my JD heavy duty garden tractor... different size machines! Even within a class of JD machines different attachment hardware kits are needed. Snowthrowers will move from brand to brand only if you have a welder and some engineering skill. I've seen it done but it is not easy or common. Then there are age issues. Attachments that fit a JD for the 70's will not fit a JD from the current year... technology and design changes. Last time I checked I could still buy attachments for my 1996 tractor from the JD dealer. That will come to an end with time. How long probably depends on what JD has in the warehouse. About once a decade JD will do a major design change. Shaft and belt drive most often refers to how the powered attachments like decks and throwers are powered. Many will disagree with me but I see no real difference for a lawn and garden sized tractor! I currently have a JD 345 with belt powered attachments and an X485 with shaft drive. No real difference in how they cut grass. Both require the engine to be running at full rpm for a decent cut. Both will bog the engine down if I feed them tall wet grass. For the most part I prefer the belt drive because it is easy to work with... not that shaft drive is overly difficult. The belt drive deck disconnects with a hand lever and the shaft drive requires an allen wrench to loosen a set screw. Even with the shaft drive deck the blades are still belt driven! Most lower priced machines will have a belt drive system because they are simple and strong. Btw... under $5K is a lower priced machine these days. I buy nothing but JD because there is a huge JD dealership in the county. It is common knowledge that Kubota and the other off brands have to be painted bright colors so you can find them when they die in the weeds.... : )