Cheap is never good. I had a 30+ year old Wheel Horse that mowed every year and blew snow every winter. For a long drive way, a blower would be better, as it gets the snow up and gone, instead of trying to find places to push it. After awhile the area you have to push it too, gets smaller and smaller.

I had a 1/4 acre parking and 700' driveway and blew it out year after year. Never a problem untill 99' when we had heavy snow and stright line winds and the snow became as solid as cement. All my tractor would do was drive up on top and no small tractor with a blade would have done any different. Had to have a neighbor with a huge Oliver 4WD with duals all around and a 10' wide blower on the back come and dig me out. I then bought a Bobcat 773, now that is a serious snow moving machine.

What ever you do, don't look at is as a short time and replace investment, its not, doing it that way it is all cost.

Buy the best one you can afford and then stretch a little and buy the next one better, then you will get something that will most likely last and cause you little problems even 10 or 20 years down the road.

Your in NJ - How much snow do you get? If you only get small amounts of snow then a blade may be the way to go. But..., if you get any substantial amounts a blower is the ONLY way to go. Like tomhoffman said, you'll eventually run out of room to plow your snow but a blower can redirect it 30' - 50' away from your driveway, home, etc...

Believe me, definately buy one level up from what you think you need. I made the mistake of buying less than what I ended up needing when I bought my 1st tractor and soon came to regret my decision. I now own a true GT that is capable of handling all my needs plus a bit more.

$$$ is usually one of the biggest factors in buying less than what you really need. You can usually find good used higher end tractors on craigs list or e-bay for the same price as a lower end new tractor. I prefer craigs list because it is local and you can go and see what you may be buying.

A Craftsman GT offers alot of bang for the buck if you want new and your budget is in the $2K - $3K range. Sometimes this might be the way to go for a while until you can afford to upgrade to a higher-end tractor.

Just my .02 cents - good luck.

I'd go with the JD x324, it has a better tranny than the x300, plus 4ws for getting around the trees easier.

I'd also look at getting a used standalone two-stage snowblower for heavy jobs and a used single-stage for lighter jobs. A standalone blower is purpose-built for the job. If you put a blower on a tractor, then you have a much bigger piece of equipment to store, will likely need weights and chains on the tractor, and pretty hard on the tractor all-around.

Sears tractors are currently made by Husqvarna. Sears snowblowers are currently made by MTD. Best standalone snowblowers are HATS (Honda, Ariens, Toro, Simplicity/Snapper). Ariens prolly has best 2-stage for the money, Toro prolly best 1-stage for the money.

Thanks for the input!

That's my concern with a blade ... having it pile up and no where more to push it. We typically get 6" or less snow events. Any more and I'd probably just hire someone to plow as that doesn't happen often. My thought with a blade is to push it past the drive into the grass for the first snow to leave me room to push additional snows. But I understand a blower will get it way out of the way. One drawback on a blower is they leave a snow "film" that won't melt on part of my drive due to it being in the shadow of my house, so I'd need to then scrape it with a shovel or it would turn to a film of ice. But a blade would scrape it down.

By the way, the used tractor was a John Deere GT235, not a GT245.

I appreciate the thoughts (and any others)!

Isn't a JDx234 ,a tractor designed to mow up to 3.5 acres, alittle bit of overkill for a .5 -.75 acre lawn?

You didn't say if your driveway was gravel or pavement of some sort. I like to have a "base layer" of snow, that way I am not throwing/scraping rocks all the time.

In any case, a blower is almost always better. I have a 250-300 ft driveway, plus a circle, et. to do. I have a Snowsport plow for my '91 4Runner. I considered a blower for my JDGX345, and a blade for that matter, but for the money, I just didn't think it would do the job. I do have problems with the space issue. I am running out of room for the snow. That is why a blower is better. Up and away.
Good luck with what you decide.

Yes, the X235 is overkill for the small acres I have to mow, but at $2000 its the same price as a brand new lower end model, but a much beefier machine, so I'm expecting longer life. Plus, I have the extra muscle if I need it for something (like plowing snow!).

My drive is paved macadam, in execellent condition.

If I got a snow blower, my thought is a stand alone walk behind. I don't see the point in putting one on front of the tractor, I'm thinking a walk behind would give me better maneuverability.

A single-stage blower will clean all the way to the pavement. A decent two-stage will get you close enough, but you'll probably need to replace the wear bar every couple years. I adjust my shoes on level concrete with a paint stick under the housing, and that typically gets all of the snow. Yeah, my wear bar wears quickly, but I have a sloped driveway and a little snow will turn to ice in a hurry. Buying a new wear bar every couple years is cheaper than pounding dents out of the vehicle.

If most of your snows are less than six inches, go with the single-stage. If you have a lot of six-inch snows or more, then look at a smaller two-stage, like an Ariens 624. For single-stage, check out the new Toro machines, they are highly-rated. I'd prolly go with a model that has a B&S engine, since Tecumseh is now out of the business and their parts future may not be as stable as B&S. You generally get what you pay for when it comes to snowblowers.

Like it is written earlier, plowing is OK but snow blowing is way more fun. Depends always on the accumulation of snow...

2002 JD GT245 used (blown up engine due to lack of oil change that the dealer will be refurbishing) for $2K (good price, but the plow is $1K additional!).
I don't doubt that green and yellow paint will bring a premium.

Do you suppose the rest of the tractor/mower was taken care of and just the engine was neglected? Is the dealer offering a Warranty on the refurbish?
One other thing, not too many people return to the plowing after using a blower. But then again, maybe they don't ever move up to a blower.

Everything was probably neglected. The dealer said the owner was always strapped for cash. The tractor was at the dealer because the owner had it in for service and couldn't afford to pay. Engine was blown because the owner didn't change the oil! Its been 2 years, so the dealer decided to refurbish and sell. But how much other damage could be done through negligence? Isn't an oil change the main thing?

How many hours are on the GT235? If it is a low hour machine and after a close inspection appears to be in resonably good condition, you might have a good deal.

40 - 50 hours/year is about average for grass cutting, leaf clean-up, yard maintenance duties, etc... If has about 160 - 200 hours after 4 years (2002 tractor minus 2 years sitting at the dealer) that's not too bad.

See if you can find out where the previous owner lived and check out his yard. If it's relatively flat and mostly lawn and not rough pasture, real hilly, etc... the machine probably was not abused other than the lack of oil.

The dealer will (or should) go through it completely and replace/repair any suspect parts or damage. The tranny is the only other major item that may have suffered abuse but only if it was overworked or the tranny oil overheated from a clogged cooling fan. Inspect it and see what the tranny looks like from the outside and inspect the oil to see if it looks or smells burnt (providing the dealer has not changed it).

That's alot of tractor for $2K, especially after a repower with a brand new engine. You might even be able to squeeze a 1 year warranty out of the dealer for your piece of mind. Like you say, it' been there 2 years already. I think I'd go for it if it was me. Your going to spend at least $3K for a low end, new "GT" plus another $1K on a plow blade. That GT235 could be the last tractor you ever own if it's maintained properly.

Compare the feature's and warranty's before make your decision. Money is approx the same $3,000.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_07124414000P?mv=rr

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_07128974000P?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_07128973000P?mv=rr

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_07128974000P?mv=rr

I own both Craftsman and JD tractors. Use a Murray brand walk behind blower, gave up plowing 12 to 15 yrs ago.

gandml- I mow 2+ acres and have a 100" driveway. I live in Maryland so our weather is similar. You can get a nice lawn tractor and a good walk behind snowblower for under 3K. It can be a pain to take off the deck and add a snow blower to the tractor. The blower will also add extra wear to the tractor. why overkill?. There are many good lawn tractors and blowers out there. I personally own a Husqvarna tractor and walk behind blower. I have very good Husq dealer near me so that was one of the decisions for me to go with the husq. docRx

1.5 acres, 300' steep paved drive, Wisconsin.

I can only tell you my experience. I plowed years ago with a Case garden tractor and plow, then snowblowed with a Cadet 1864 and single stage, now have a Deer GX345 with a single stage blower.

Plowing was barely OK, Deep snow stopped the Case, lots of snow (last winter was 100"+) created a storage problem. Getting that first full pass down the drive was a challenge when snow was heavy, and the pile by the side always started a drift back in process.

Blowing with the cadet worked fine but blower was big, awkward to get on and off (2 man operation), and seemed to have a mechanical problem most years. Replacing a u-joint in snow is no fun.

The Deere has been great. The blower is lighter, well engineered to make swapping it with the mower deck easy, is maneuverable and just does a great job. Blowing has become a minor chore rather than a "task". I am overall very pleased. Single stage has been more than adequate, including some 4' drifting last year.Traction is no problem, but I do have chains, wheel weights, and liquid filled tires (and a big butt). I often end up blowing two or three drives in the area.

Grandm1,
No question I'd buy the GT235. It's a real garden tractor, and you need a rugged tractor for snow removal. I have a GT225 (little brother) and it's a beast of a tractor which I use for all kinds of ridiculous things.
Speaking of ridiculous: no way is a front blade for that tractor $1,000. The 44" blade is $529. I guess maybe if he was including the cost of cast iron weights and chains you'd be close to a grand, but you can find a set of chains on ebay for $50, and you can add 50 lbs to each tire by filling it with windshield washer fluid for $20. Attachments are very easy to find for this tractor. A 42" blade off an LT, LX, GT, or 100 series will fit it. You'll just have to get the GT series braces (about $70) to make it work. They're always on eBay for less than $200. The 44 is a little more heavy duty, with a complete frame like a snowblower rather than just braces. You can get a 42" snowblower for $1400, but these are also pretty common for under $400 on eBay. I happen to have an unused one in PA which I'm considering selling if you're interested. I needed one for my GT262 and came across a deal on two I couldn't pass up.
The GT235 probbaly doesn't have an hour meter, so the only way to guess how many hours are on it is to look at the deck and tires. Neither should be showing any significant wear on a 2002 tractor unless it was used commercially. This tractor has a 48" convertible deck. Will that fit through your trees?

Here is a link that might be useful: blade on ebay

I would recommend the blower on the tractor without question.

I have an 05 Simplicity Conquest with a 42' single stage snow blower attachment. It takes me about an hour to drop the mower deck, clean and store it, and put the blower on. And I do it myself. I store the blower on a furniture dolly for ease of movement and its the right height for mounting onto the hitch. Then of course on go the chains.

Since my drive is about 1100 feet, and runs between two other properties, blowing is the best option for me. And its fun!!!!!

I also have 2+ acres of land to maintain and I have hills to go up and down. So my situation is a little different from yours.

I would go for the Deere GT235 if it is in good condition and get the blower for the front.

And we have 10 - 15 inches of new snow coming tonight into tomorrow! Time to play!

Enjoy the journey.
eal51 in western CT

It's your lucky day. You need to buy this blower TODAY. Then go buy the GT235 tomorrow. This blower is in Scranton and is going for a steal with only one bid. It will have ended by dinnertime, but there will be more. Just not this cheap.

Here is a link that might be useful: cheap blower

Definitely buy the tractor attachment... twenty five years ago I purchased a used Sears LT/10 with a 42" deck and a 36" single stage snowthower. I had never used a lawn tractor snow blower before and when I tried I hated it. I was young, stupid and naive - I did not use wheel weights, chains, did not lube the spout - it clogged up evey two minutes. It "improved" over the next two years after I put on wheel weights and chains; but the snow blowing in my face and clogging issue turned me off to the point that I did not use anymore. I kept the blower in the garage and used the tractor to cut grass (1.5 acreas) untill 1997. There was nothing wrong with the tractor but I needed a mulcher because the trees had grown and I did not want to rake the leaves. I kept the Sears LT but used it sparingly.

I have gotten older, little wiser, and now have more time. In the fall, I built a soft snow cab, painted the inside of the snowblower spout with graphite paint and waited for the snow. The snow did come, several times six inches, for a total of more than 70" YTD; the snowblower handled it beautifully! My driveway is L shaped, approximately 60' each leg, one leg double wide.

The snow cab made a BIG difference;also, the graphie paint really solved the clogging problem. I now look forward to snow --IT IS FUN!

I FEEL STUPID THAT I DID NOT DO THIS twenty five years ago! And yes the LT/10 has the original 11HP BS engine, regular maintainance only--change the oil when I remembered, clean the air filter, change the spark plug. (I did rebuild the carburator) and had no problems handling the snow!

It is fun -- go forthe attachment and get/build a cab! You will not regret it!

esemilio,

My dad thought I was nuts when I bought a Femco enclosure for $150 and had him drive 30 miles to pick it up. I would have picked it up myself but he's in PA and I'm in NC. "The phone booth" as he called it, was for my GT262, which I bought for him to blow snow with until I move back up north a decade from now and retrieve it. I bought it on eBay for $150, I think. He hasn't used it yet, but he'll appreciate it when he does. The only thing I'm concerned about is carbon monoxide getting into the cab, but I guess the way the engine/tractor is designed, the cooling air is pulled in through the hood near the steering wheel and flows out along the frame, so hopefully it won't be an issue. The tractor does need a new muffler, however, and with that cab on you really need hearing protection until we get that fixed.

What brand of graphite paint did you use? I've never heard of that.

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We'll see if he can get away without using chains. I have a set of cast iron rear weights which probably won't make it on till next season. The rear ag tires are filled with 12 gallons of washer fluid (100lbs), and the cab itself weighs 190 lbs, so we'll see how that works.

Here is a link that might be useful: Femco products catalog

gandm1, don't part with your money so easily on used stuff. What you are quoting ain't a steal, don't get in a hurry.

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/grd/1055849539.html

marineguy that new muffler for your GT262 will be just under $100 and you get to put it on for that price.

marineguy -
The graphite paint I used is labeled:

EZ-SLIDE
rb-9512 Dry Film Lubricant
Graphite based Coating

It comes in spray can, quarts/gallon, and dry powder.

In Wisconsin we have a chain of stores called Farm & Fleet that carries it.

I painted the underside of my cutting deck last spring; I did not get a chance to look at it yet to see how it performed. (I use another rider with the mulching deck to cut the grass).

That is a nice set up you/your father have!

Thanks for all the info; keep it coming!

Thanks for the link too. Unfortunately, there are no deals as good in my area. I've been looking at ebay and craigs list for both blades and tractors. There are a few older tractors for sale, including one 1993 Craftsman GT6000 for $800 that comes with a blade that I'm considering. I'm sure not as nice as a 2002 Deere GT235, but for the price its tempting. I'm still hunting.

I've decided on a blade, not a blower. Reason being most snows we get are smaller and very variable consistency: dry, wet, snow with freezing rain, etc. My drive is long enough that shoveling it every time gets to be a real chore. A blade will scrap off anything, regardless of the type of snow. And since we don't get lots of deep snows, I don't anticipate a problem with finding a place to pile it. If I get a deep snow, which might happen once a year, I'll just plow it twice or pay someone 50 bucks to take care of it for me. But for 90% of our snows, I think a blade will work fine.

gandm1

Steve,
I figured it'd be around that much. It's funny how these garden tractors (new) are about 20% the cost of a new car, yet tractor parts like mufflers, starters, batteries, tires, and sometimes engines are about the same price as car parts. I bought a new set of Michelins for an old VW a few years ago for less than I spent on tires for my tractor.

Esemilio,
Thanks, I'll have to check that paint out.

Well, the deed is done. I bought the used 2002 John Deere GT235 with 219 hours and a refurbished engine for $2000. The machine seemed to be in good order. If the engine holds up, i consider it a very good deal. Someone posted earlier the same model on ebay (not anywhere near me) for much cheaper. But personally I've found about 10 on line all over the country for $3000 to $5500. Now, for the plow ...

Congratulations. You're going to love it.

I linked an ad for a blade in PA that will work. It's actually made for the old 100 series, but it will fit the GT235. You will need to buy the proper braces for the GT series. That would be parts 13-20. This will be the case if you buy any 42" blade that looks like the one in the picture (not the one from the old 200 series). If you buy one that came off an LX series, the braces are the same for the GT series.

And of course you'll need to find some tire chains. Don't waste your money on weights; just fill the tires with washer fluid. It's incredibly easy, as long as there aren't tubes in them.

1) remove the core
2) lay the tire down stem side up and bump it (use a wide, accurate grip) with a sledgehammer to break the top bead.
3) pour in six gallons (23x10.50-12) of windshield washer fluid; it won't freeze or corrode the steel or rubber.
4) inflate the tire with a real air compressor to seat the bead.
5) put the core back in and re-inflate the tire to desired pressure.
You just added 100 lbs of weight to your wheels for $24, which is 1/5 of the cost of a single 50lb cast iron rear wheel weight from Deere.

Here is a link that might be useful: 42

Here's one that has the proper braces with it. It's the set up for a hand-lift GT or LX tractor.
Maybe you can talk him into shipping it.

Here is a link that might be useful: blade in arkansas

Wow; thanks!! A few questions/comments ...

Chains - I'm hoping I can get by without. My driveway is relatively new and in great shape; smooth as glass. I'm concerned chains might damage it. Its pretty flat too. Maybe the washer fluid in the tires will be enough to do the trick?

Plow - Are you SURE this plow and (more importantly) mounting brackets will fit on the GT235, and if so, do you have a part number for the mounting brackets? I did some research on line and it seems John Deere has a lot of parts out there for a lot of tractors, so its a bit confusing. I also would like the mechanism that allows you to lift the plow from the cab using the mower deck lever and the mechanism that allows you to angle the plow from the cab. Dealer told me these are four different parts with the following part numbers (and price, new):
BM21340 - attachment bracket $45
BM19415 - 48" plow $629
BM18977 - lift $96
BM21341 - angle $185

The John Deere web site provided a list of compatible blade parts for the GT235. If you go to the below link and search on gt235 a multi-page document will come up. If you search that doc for BM21340 it will take you to the right page for the GT series. There were two attaching parts shown as compatible with the GT235. I guess it doesn't mean others wouldn't fit, but I'd like to be sure.

Also, in the plow schematic you showed me above, the part of the plow that looks like it attaches to the bracket (# 1C in your schematic above) looked different than the same part on the schematic shown on ebay for the used plow for sale. I guess I'm wondering if the ebay plow is the same as the one in your schematic.

Hope I'm not being confusing. I'm more than willing to buy used and save some $$ if I can! Just want to make sure before committing $100 and driving 3 hours to get it.

Thanks!

Here is a link that might be useful: John Deere compatibility catalogue:

According to the dealer, the only hook up that will allow for angling from the cab is the 48" built specifically for the GT235. There is an angle kit that will allow this feature, which I'd really prefer.

Thanks!!

grandm1,
True, the only blade that will allow manual angling from the cab is the 48", part BM19415. It is not designed specifically for the GT235, it will fit just about every late model Deere garden tractor through GX series. But you need to note that while the blade that fits the GT series will also fit the older 240/325 series, the blade that was made specifically for the 240/325 and family (BM18130)will NOT fit the GT series due to clearance issues on the GT undercarriage.
Here are some pictures to clear things up. First, I must mention that the really big difference between the 42/44" and 48" blades are the 42" just mounts to the front frame of the tractor, then has two braces which attach to the mid-frame to provide additional support. It pivots on the front frame mount. The braces are just there to prevent the front tractor frame from bending. The 48" blade has its own frame, like a snowblower. It mounts to the same point mid frame, and unlike the 42", it pivots on those mid-frame mounts. This is certainly a more rugged design, and the blade is less likely to ride up on ice due to the pivot being further back. To use the 48 blade, you need to get the front lift kit for the GT series, which uses the front section of the tractor's frame to mount a jackshaft which will lift the front part of the 48" blade's frame via a tie-rod clamped to the deck lift handle. This is the same lift setup used with the 42" snowblower.
This is the front lift kit: (you will not need parts 1,2,3, your tractor already has that D-hole incorporated in the frame.

Hopefully I haven't confused you. Now that I've shed light on the two bracing systems: if you find a 48" blade for sale online (used), and it has a straight frame, it is made for the 240/265/325 tractors. It will not work with your GT tractor. See pic:

You need this frame:

This frame (the bent one) will work with any of the tractors. The two holes in the back near the J-hooks are for the 240/265/325 tractors. The GT series use the front holes (as shown) with the front lift kit).

All these diagrams are on the JD parts catalog, linked below. Go to "Equipment Search" and type in "Blade" then scroll down to the 42, 44, 46, 48 front blade and click on "sectional index" to see the breakdowns.

Do you have a foot or hand lift? If you have a hand lift, that other blade I mentioned will work with the right mounting parts. I mounted my GT's 42" blade to my old 111H before I found one online specifically for it which included the braces and rear frame weights (for $50). The 42 inchers are all compatible, like I said, you just need to buy the proper braces and mounting hardware.

You'll still need to buy the blade angle kit from Deere. That's something like $180 new. You might find a 48 blade for sale which has it mounted, but it's unlikely. I've been looking for one for my Dad for about a year and only saw one, which went for the retail price when you count shipping.

If you have any more questions, ask. I've spent quite a bit of time researching compatibility of the GT series, and it's paid off, having found a like-new 42" blade for my GT225 for $100, and a pair of new-in-box 42" snowblowers for both my GT225 and my GT262 for a total of $300 (plus $50 in gas to have my brother pick them up). In both cases, the sellers didn't think they'd fit my tractors. In both cases, they did.

Here is a link that might be useful: jd parts

Just wanted to comment that the snowblower for my JD 345 was $1400 with a set of chains. Best snow removal tool I've ever used on the driveway... but pricey. Cleans 12" of snow from 400' of driveway in about 15 minutes. Bought me a ski mask from Wallyworld to deal with the blow back.

Been cleaning up small snows with the back blade of my X485... does scrape better. Chains will leave some marks on cement but I don't much worry about them. Certainly don't want to sit and spin your tires with them for any length of time. Don't know what that blade cost as it was part of the deal when I bought the tractor. Was $9500 total for tractor, blade, 3pt hitch, cultivator, delivery, and taxes.... tractor had about 30 hours.

No question I'd recommend the blower for anyone who lives in an area where 1-2' snowfalls are the norm. But in NJ, where it's usually 2-3" of slush or ice, I'd go with a blade.

gandm1,

Sorry, but I'd go with the chains also on the back tires. I've been using lawn tractors w/snowblowers on them for 10 years and always used chains. Before that, I grew up on a farm where we used a full size tractor with a blade on the front, blower on the back, and yes, chains on those big tires. One more example, I work next to a company that makes monuments (head stones), and they unload flat beds that have the stone blocks with a fork lift. They put chains on the front tires of the fork lift in the winter. No, the fork lift doesn't have good tread on the tires, but it does have 1,000-1,500 lbs. of weight on the front drive tires with the stones, and they still use tire chains.

You'll be very unhappy if you're stuck in the snow in the dead of winter simply because you didn't put on the chains. If you leave a little snow pack on your drive, the chains won't cut through and you won't damage it (unless you spin the rear tires a lot). If the tractor isn't too heavy and you don't spin the tires with the chains on it, you probably still won't do much damage (w/o leaving a snow pack).

Better to remove the snow with the least amount of trouble, in my humble opinion.

You could also use rubber tire chains. There's a company up in Maine that sells them and I hear they're really good. I think the website is "rubbertirechains.com". Plug that in and it will probably get you to their website. I hear they don't destroy your driveway but give just as good traction as conventional chains.

Good Luck!

Thanks for all the great info!!! Let me digest the blade info; I'll let you know if I have a question. Thanks for the rubber chain info. I'll probably try without chains to see how it goes and go with some sort of chain as a last resort. I didn't think to look for rubber but that may be a good alternative. I don't want to spin in the snow but also don't want to mess up the macadam. As far as snow blower, I'm thinking same as the other post - for our small and wet/icy snows a plow would be better. We don't get many deep dry snows.

My Dad ditched the rubber chains (came with his tractor) for some good 'ol steel chains this year. The rubber chains are actually pretty good for traction while mowing his hills, and for other tractor duties on soft ground. As far as snow removal goes, they help a little in powder, but they're useless on ice. And they cost a lot more than steel chains.
But they won't harm your driveway.

If you are going to plow without chain learn to use slopes to your advantage. Plowing "downhill" gives the tractor a huge advantage. My x485 plows without chains fairly well if I'm going downhill. Uphill I just keep backing up and hitting the snow. I raise the blade and knock back the top of the pile then I lower it to scrape clean. Took awhile for me to get the touch... Deere could help by making finer controls on the hydraulics.... hard to get the blade just where I want it.

The only time I've gotten stuck I rammed the tractor up on a pile while knocking back the top. Bit of work with a shovel to get it out. When I'm stuck in the field with it I pop the hydrostat release and pull the tractor out with my 4x4 truck. There is a button, knob, lever somewhere that lets the tractor freewheel without damaging the hydrostatic unit.