The only fungal disease known, that affects JM's (and many other trees & woody plants), is Verticillium Wilt. It develops on the roots and blocks the uptake of moisture & nutrients to the foliage. Once it becomes well established, the tree will die. There is no known treatment or cure. Almost any of the JM's you purchase, is already infected with the disease, since propagators don't usually test rootstock before grafting. The one's in Oregon are particularly known for using dirty rootstock. That being said, you can usually prevent the disease from multiplying and seriously affecting the health of your tree. Select a location that is shielded from the sun during the hottest part of the day. Keep the soil moist, not damp or soggy, in the root zone. Do not allow it to dry out. Do not overfertilize the tree. Apply a light application of balanced fertilizer (12-12-12 is fine) in early spring, when new growth begins. Use compost in late summer, for additional nutrition. Apply mulch over the roots, to conserve moisture. Leave an air gap of 3-4 inches around the trunk, to prevent insects and diseases from entering the tree trunk. Do any pruning in early winter, as the sap rises early in Maples. Check any tree before purchase, for signs of disease, such as dead branches, curling or yellow (chlorotic) leaves. The Coral Bark JM ('Sango Kaku') is a good choice. Very colorful in the winter, with it's red bark. Mine is about 20 years old and it receives a "haircut" almost ever winter, to keep it in shape and height limited to around 8ft. It's at the drip edge of a White Oak and a Southern Magnolia.

Susan, I agree with Randy that moving it now is iffy at best, but you should go ahead and move it if you feel that gives it the best chance of survival. A lot depends on how large it is, though, and also on how well it has leafed out--both last summer and recently. One thing you have to understand about trees in general is that they often can survive for a year or more on stored energy. Often, when something occurs which might kill a tree and, then, the tree inexplicably survives, it is easy to think the tree is OK and will make it. However, the tree often will decline and die a year or more later when it runs out of that stored energy. The larger and more mature the tree is now, the greater the risk in moving it. However, you may feel you have no choice. If it is a very large and very mature JM, I'd get an estimate from a professional tree mover and see if that is one route you could take. Their equipment probably could move a much larger rootball and more feeder roots than a home gardener could dig if we're talking about a larger and more mature tree. On the other hand, they may not be affordable. It sounds like Moni has had great results in moving JMs so that is encouraging too. There's a cold front coming in the next day or two. If I had a small tree (of any type) that I needed to move at the "wrong" time of the year, I'd try to move it just prior to (within 12 hours) the arrival of the cold front. That way, it will have a couple of days of milder weather in which to begin its recovery. To give it the best chance of survival after it is transplanted, you need to keep the root zone evenly moist (but not sopping wet) and never let it dry out completely this summer. If you let it get too dry, the tree might not survive. One problem with transplant shock is that by the time the leaves wilt/drop, the transplanted tree is often already too dry to revive. Also, and I haven't used one of these in many years but assume they are still available, there are anti-transpirant sprays available that can somewhat help mitigate transplant shock. Two that I remember from many years ago are "Wilt-Pruf" and "Cloud Cover", although I haven't seen "Cloud Cover" in stores in many years. You spray them on the transplanted plant at the time it is moved. I'll try to find one and link it below to show you what I'm talking about. Your best chance of finding one is a full-line nursery. Finally, I'd be careful about feeding the tree. Sometimes fertilizing a recently transplanted tree actually stresses it, so I'd be very careful. You don't want to push the tree to produce a lot of foliage that the roots and vascular system cannot support at the present time. I'd probably water it in well after moving it and then give it a gentle feeding with an organic Liquid Seaweed product or with homemade alfalfa tea, and I'd avoid chemical-based fertilizers that would give it more nitrogen than it needs after being moved. Good luck. I hope the tree makes it. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Wilt-Pruf

What's with the dark color on the trunk? Did someone tape the trunk together in hopes that it would "heal?" As for the holes, perhaps borers because of the applied wrapping?

There is not a single topic where qualified horticultural professionals do not have dissenting opinions. Indeed, over time, yesterday's crackpot theory becomes today's widely accepted practice. Andvthe reverse is equally true. I can provide examples of each. I have no problems with disagreement...it means we have views that are different, nothing more. I can tell you this much...technically, no diagnosis should be given without a lab report. In practical terms, symptoms are given, probable diagnosis are given, no lab ever consulted. Same with nutrient issues. Very few are going to go through the trouble of collecting samples, sending them in, and waiting...and nearly every soil test i've ever seen has at least a token amount of fertilizer recommended. And who exactly is going going to go for a tissue analysis? Except in extraordinary circumstances? So making this claim is misleading, it's an attempt to shut down dissent, not create a conversation. Let's not even start going down the rabbit hole of analyzing and interpreting soil test results...basically, that's one subject where there is no agreement. I'll admit most people fertilize where they have no business doing so. I won't comment on some of the products out there or the claims made by various parties. In particular instance...we have a plant recently acquired, still in a pot. Trying to exclude container practices while claiming the umbrella of established landscape plantings is misleading. For the record, i'm not suggesting we fertilize this puppy till there is no fertilizer left on the county. I'm suggesting a half rate dose of a liquid soluble, aka, a shot in the arm. It can do little harm...and can have the benefit of pushing new growth. Explaing how photosynthesis occurs...great...now, how do plants take up nutrients? There needs to be room for dissenting views, in many forums of life. I'm not promulgating crazy high doses, or mix your own concoctions because i took a high school chemistry class...this is not a radical proposal i'm making. And frankly, it's one respected horticultural professionals across the country give routinely. Feel free to disagree...you can be a qualified and respected professional and disagree. Especially in horticulture.