I've used Toro 22040's in my lawn care business for 15 ears. The trany/drive system is probably similiar if not identical to the commercial mowers. If they weren't problem free workhorses, I would not have kept making the same mistake for 15 years Here are the secrets to the rear wheel miseries on Toros. 1. USE ONLY Marine Grade grease on the rear wheel height adjuster grease zerks. You will be amazed at how something so simple can make such a dramatic performance difference. I found out accidentally when I grabbed the grease gun for the outboard by mistake. Causes of Rear Wheel Slippage. 1. The pinion gear is worn down. They are softer metal than the geared wheel rim. They are supposed to wear down because they are easier and cheaper to replace than the wheel rim itself. You probably don't have split rims which are on the commercials. Or, you allowed a worn pinion gear to grind to long on the geared wheel half and now both need to be replaced. 2. The drive shaft is slotted for a key. The key is rounded over OR you have been using the machine in muddy conditions and the slot is filled with mud, the spring under the key is broken or compressed with aforementioned mud and you haven't been giving the wheel a shot of grease after using it in the mud. The drive shaft is designed so that when grease is pumped into the zerk, the dirt and gunk is washed out of the keyway. Clean the keyway, buy a new spring and key reinstall and give it a few pumps of grease. 3. You been grinding away so long that the keyway on the drive shaft has been wallowed out and the key now sits sideways more or less and doesn't catch the pinion gear. 4. You disassembled the wheel, removed the pinion gear and reinstalled the pinion gear backwards. Yes, there is a right way and a wrong way for the pinion gear to go on. 5. The e-clip that holds the pinion gear in place is missing and has been chewed up by the pinion gear and geared wheel half. 6. And finally, from the symptoms you have provided either the roller bearing or needle bearing or both is shot. When ever you have excessive play either side to side or it looks like the rear wheel drops down when you lift the rear of the mower up, this is what you problem is. The rear wheel adjuster ran about 40.00 bucks the last time I checked but they are easily and cheaply rebuilt by punching the bearings out, taking them to a bearing shop and getting non Toro bagged bearings for under 8 bucks. You don't need a press to get them back in. Just a vice, small hammer and the old needle bearing to use a a seat to get the new one in. the roller bearing can just be hammered in with a piece of wood flush with the adjuster. You will also need a split ring pliers to remove the adjuster

The shifting pin came out the rear of the transmission just in front of the tines. I put it back in and it will not slide all the way in, so I can't assemble the rear plug. From the parts schematic, it should fit into a shifting fork. Any suggestions on how to align the fork to accept the pin? There is a threaded hole on one side of the pin, I tried it both ways and it still wouldn't seat far enough in. Any suggestions?

I think the bracket is there. Is it rod shaped? I can see two screws. I was thinking if I unbolted the motor to the frame I could slide it over to the hole in the deck. If I could do that, would I be able to keep what's in there in place, when installing the seal? Or would it be a hassle and a oily mess? I've drained the oil from the drain tube, but I never seem to get much out it.

Tips when rebuilding Honda Mini FG100 Transmission: Before order any parts do the follow: - The brass drive gear is connected to the tines axle by spines only. So be careful how much you hammer on the axle to try and get rusted on tines off, it possible to drive the gear off the axle. - The primary reason this transmission fails is water intrusion. While low or old grease(it separates) doesn't help and will cause the transmission to fail after a long period time, it's normally allowing water into the transmission which can rust the worm gear and thrust bearing that really speeds up the failure. - Thoroughly clean and degrease worm gear. Look for rust and pitting, this is what normally kills the brass drive gear. Remember brass is softer metal then steel. If any rust or pitting forms on the steel worm gear it will just grind down brass drive gear. The rust and pitting acts like sand paper. - If worm gear has any rust or pitting this must be clean up and smooth out, otherwise a new brass drive will just get grind down again. A 1x30" bench belt sander works good for this, the last sanding should be with a 300 or 400 grit sanding belt. - Soak and clean the thrust bearing with a penetrating oil. Make sure the roller bearing and washer are turning and look fine, no pitting. The thrust bearing is just above the worm gear and below the brass bushing. - Clean drive shaft for worm gear to remove any rust. Any bench grinder and wire brush works great for this. - Check all bushings for excessive play and wear. - Thoroughly clean and check the tines axle rubber seals and worm drive top seal for wear. All to often water intrusion is caused by the tiller being left out in the rain and water run pass the top seal which result in rusting on the up end of the worm drive shaft, thrust bearing, and worm gear. - Check the top bearing for play and wear. It at the top of the drive shaft for the worm gear under the top seal and is a sealed bearing. - If the worm gear, thrust bearing, top and bottom worm gear bushings, top sealed bearing, or top seal are too worn or damage you have to purchase the full transmission rebuild kit($$$$$) - However if whole worm drive assembly looks good, maybe after a little sanding of the worm gear, then only the tiller tine shaft assemble is need to replace the damage brass drive gear. Double check the bushing, thrust washers and rubber seals for your tine shaft, if this look fine the Earthquake 4651 replacement tiller tine shaft assembly might work and save you some money but I have not tested this. Others say it the same tine shaft. However if you have any concerns about this or the bushing and seals Pete's Small Engine tine shaft kit includes the axle with drive gear, bushings, and seals. Modification: - I replaced the top grease fill bolt with a M6 grease nipple. This was the prefect thread size to make a solid connection. I did have to drill the existing thread out which do not match any standard nipple thread size to tap for M6 thread. I recommend doing this on a drill press so you can drill the hole a little offset so the nipple will not hit the tines axle dirt cap. - The reason for installing the grease nipple is to allow easy greasing but also to allow the transmission to be pressure fill with grease to avoid creating any air pocket for water accumulate if it finds it way into the transmission. I use the bottom grease fill bolt to check for water. Assembly: - I recommend popping the seal off the top drive bearing, removing the old grease with an air gun, and then packing in new grease with your fingers. Once done you should be able press the seal back into place. - Use thin gasket material not form a gasket silicone to seal transmission housing. Using form a gasket silicone with cause the tines axle to bind against the axle bushing and thrust washers, it's just not thick enough. - I recommend using Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease, it's extremely water resistance and extreme pressure grease. Very low oil separation rate. I have found tubes of Mystik JT-6 #2 Multi-purpose grease that over 20 years ago and the oil still has not started to separate.