What you described about the multiple branches radiating around the trunk, just below where the trunk has been top cut, is a typical growth pattern for such drastic top pruning.

All too often growers have already done such pruning to larger crape myrtles when they are shipped to the retail nurseries.

Did your area get the recent days' hard freeze around the Easter holiday? If so the CM in question might have a lot of dead wood which needs to be pruned out. If such a freeze happened, watch the tree as its remaining buds leaf out again.

Once the tree appears to be fully leafing out enough to look recovered from any winter or freeze damage; totally remove any trunks or branches which fail to releaf. Also from the trunks nearest your house, completely remove all the way to the trunk any branches in the canopy which you can clearly tell will grow to infringe on your roof.

Throughout the following growing seasons feed the tree with slow release quality food, and after every week which fails to provide an inch of rain for the shrub, suppliment the tree with that much water.

Over the summer let the tree bloom naturally, and do not prune off the resulting seeds in an effort to extend your bloom season to the first freeze of late fall or early winter. By letting the tree bloom by itself and by being patient if it seems to slow down in bloom presentation after the first bloom flush; the tree will be enabled to put forth effort into thickening its branches and developing its proper rooting perportions.

After the tree goes dormant, depending on when temps drop low enough for that, consider the space which any branching from the trunks still invade your roof line. cut, at that time, each trunk, all the way down to the root ball, whose canopy clearly will grow to infringe on your roof line.

Hopefully when you have accomplished all the above pruning you will end up with the best of either a one or three main leader trunks.

Then, in early march of the next year, prune out again all brittle dead wood, brake off the remaining seed pods and their twigs.

Then turn your focus onto any remaining radiating branches which are growing just beneath the previously described, chopped off trunks. Preserve only a flexible and clearly healthy branch which grows the most directly upward and toward the direction where you want the trunk to continue growing. Prune away any other branches which are growing around the trunk near the same level of the healthy upward growing branch you selected to retain.

To repeat: the one branch you choose to keep growing off the end of such chopped off trunks should be the one out of the ratiating bunches which appeares to be growing most upright, and growing in the right direction for the retained branch to assume the role of developing into a continuation of the trunk.

Hopefully each single branch you select to continue the remaining trunks are thick enough to survive the following winter freezes. If not you will need to wrap each and their tunks with cotton insulator wrap prior to each freeze. If the temps are forecast to drop down to a hard freeze than add bubble wrap around the cotton wrap. Just be sure to remove the plastic bubble wrap any time the temps rise back up above 33 F. degrees.

The above advised action takes a lot of dilligent effort, so if you do not think the tree is worth the trouble, simply remove it, grind the stump and main roots and purchase a 10 to 15 gallon sized, 25 to 30 feet potential height grower Crape Myrtle which has not also already been such drastically top pruned-down by the grower.

With any such new CM tree you plant in the area, make certain to plant it far enough from the house to prevent roof damage, and to also prune train it properly each year just as you first described above.

For a page that may be of interest...

Wow...a lot of info...thanks!

Some follow-up comments to clarify:

I think the tree may be further along than your plan suggests.

The previous owners did not do a typical drastic top pruning to the trunk. They just cut some of the upper branches at points that were a little too thick. It is a few of these branches (1 to 1 1/2" thick) about 2/3 up the tree, and not the trunk that have several branches (4-5) coming out of them.

I do not prune after the blooms fade...I leave them on. I have 4-6 main trunks that are well spaced. I may remove one that crosses, but otherwise I don't want to remove any more. I don't mind that it has that many. Most of the branches up to about 2/3 to 3/4 the height of the tree are relatively thick and strong. Also, I don't think I've ever seen any of the branches die from freeze which, based on your comments, confuses me.

Were you spreading out your recommendations over a few years so that the tree didn't experience too much pruning all at once?

Since I think I am ready to concentrate on the smaller denser branches that occupy the top 1/3 of the tree now, I assume I can follow your directions from there and prune down to the one healthy, straight branch that is headed in the right direction.

I still have my question regarding what to do with the remaing branches that are too long an droop with blooms. You suggested that I "break off the remaining seed pods and their twigs". Why should I do this? Does this also mean that it would be okay to prune the long, thin remaining, branches down to to a thickness of a pencil? And if I do so, will those branches continue to grow from their tips or will they put out new shoots right below those cuts? I guess what I want to know is if there is a thickness of branch, which if pruned at that point, will allow the branch to continue to grow straight without having to sprout lateral branches.

Knowing more about the tree, do you still think that I should fertilize? I want to control its size after all