"the exhaust rocker doesnt seem to travel near as far as the intake does," "could this be the camshaft?" Unfortunately some of these engines do have a camshaft problem. The cam lobes were not properly hardened and wear done prematurely. Some people have gotten free replacements even though their warranty had expired. The dealers said no but they called B&S Service directly. I have detailed instructions for adjusting the valves IF you would like them but I don't think this is your problem. Good luck, Walt Conner wconner5 at verizon dot net

Thanks Walt! I am beginning my reassembly now. By the way, I did all of the cutting on the pulley with a Dremel tool. Actually a black and decker wizard with the wand attachment and a 1.5" as well as a 1" cut off wheel. It might have taken a little longer, but I was able to get closer to the sump without worry of cutting into it. I had to bend open the pulley in places to get the tool deep enough to cut through the thicker middle section of the pulley but that was eased by the cutting to the holes the guys at the machine shop drilled in order to use a wheel puller on it.

Walt, thanks for all the info you have provided. It has been a great help. I think it was you that said my adjusting the valve on the briggs engine in my wifes gilson was the worst case of shade tree mechanicing you had ever heard of. Probably. Except, I was repairing cars (and tractors) since I was 10. I didn't know service manuals existed. I had no feeler gauges or torque wrenches. My mentor was my dad who preferred to drive horses to tractors. He never worked on his cars, but always took them to a mechanic. I Put the wrong head on a 41 chev when I was 11 years old. It took me an hour to remove it and put a different one on and adjust the valves. Anyway, you have told me several times that retorqueing the head won't work. And I have changed several headgaskets that were bad (just as you described). However, I had a new experience with a '75 VW rabbit. It was running badly, so I did a compression check. I had given up on tuneing worn out engines, which is why I always did a compression check. Sure enough, the compression on the center two cylinders was low and the same. I screwed in my air hose adapter, and the air from one cylinder squirted out the other. Sure proof the the gasket was leaking between the two cylinders. On changeing the gasket, I found the egr pipe had rusted and fallen off leaveing a large hole in the intake manifold. Pluging this and the car ran much better, of course. Now back to that head gasket. I inspected that rabbit gasket as well as I could and it was perfect. I concluded that it only leaked when cold and when hot, expansion sealed the leak. Therefore, retorqeing the head bolts would have fixed that one. My grand daughter had a chevy cavailer which was running bad. When I checked compression, some readings were rather low. So I retorqued the head bolts. The compression came up and the engine ran much better. Conclusion: If caught early, retorqeing can seal the headgasket and it is much easier than replaceing the gasket (If I replaced the gasket, I would also make sure the head was flat, probably by rubbing it on some emery paper). Also, new gaskets must be tougher than the old ones were. And did you know that coke cans are .004 to .005 inch thick on the center of their sides? So I left the intake in that range. The exhaust is under .010, and probably .008 (it could have been as low as .007). I'm sure you have seen these gaps quite wide. Intake would have been .015 to .020 and exhaust in the .020 to .025 range before my adjusting. As to her engine numbers, she used the numbers she had showed the guy to pull up a parts diagram of her engine on the briggs site (mod-287707, type-022501, code-970311ZD). She kept asking why the head gasket in the book (and in her hand) didn't look like the one on the briggs site. So I made up a story about 'L' being the cumbustion chamber shape of a valve-in block (What's a valve, what's a block). Girls!!! If I was doing a repair for money, I would do a complete job. A customer wants a working repair. Not a maybe. And doesn't want to pay extra for a second try at fixing it. I would always replace a bad starter, not change the drive gear and/or brushes. Probably replace the short block on an engine that is smokeing or useing oil. Kids are fun! But I try not to help. A little advice when they are stuck, usualy with a science lesson. Oh, In your bolt numbering scheme, I didn't know which bolt was to be number one (I now think you meant top center). On the other hand, I kinda don't believe it matters if you go around several times and take each bolt up just a small amount. So I used the sequence in the 'L' head manual, skipping the bolt under the exhaust which was still hidden and of course the one that was removed for the push rod galley. Oh, I was asking if they retorqued the flywheel nut. What a couple of stooges!! JerryO

Yep, ya probably got it out of "time". Those gears look like they are in the correct position, until ya slide the crankcase cover back on, and they assume the identity of a snake laying in yer flower bed--they quietly slip out of position, and you are left with the job of getting it right. Might as well take it apart again! If the timing gear doesn't want to stay in mesh, try this: put the gear timing marks where they belong, then tie a light piece of string around the crankshaft and timing gear shafts, and reassemble it. Sometimes, a worn casting "boss" in the engine base allows the timing gear to lean out of mesh! Of course, you can't see it when the case slides down, and you have to trust that ya get it right!