You had better park it right now. Further use will just push it closer to oblivion.
You stated some very significant symptoms that pretty well confirm you have AT LEAST........a head gasket leaking, but your water pump is also likely defective. And I don't mean "one or the other", I mean you probably have BOTH defects present.
The cup or so of coolant by the left front tire is either leaking from the radiator recovery jug (overflow tank), or from the water pump weep hole, or both places.
Your statement regarding the radiator & recovery jug, "They dont leak- I can fill them and check the next day and they are still full." is "partly true".
They might not leak in the sense of having a hole or crack, but they are certainly "bleeding & venting pressure" during engine operation.
What is happening is the head gasket is leaking combustion gases (under high pressure) into the cooling system and raising the pressure above the vent relief value of the radiator cap (usually 13 PSI). As the gases (and pressure) enter the cooling system, the radiator cap begins venting the excess pressure (along with coolant and combustion gases) into the coolant recovery jug. As the venting continues the recovery jug overfills, it begins to dump coolant out of its overflow tube. The loss of coolant from the radiator will decrease somewhat as the coolant level drops to a lower point, but the gases continue to be vented into the recovery jug and create a frothy mix of gases which continue to carry coolant out of the recovery jug (because the jug is "not pressurized"). The 13 PSI in the radiator keeps the foaming/frothing from happening there, but the recoery jug has not pressure cap.
Since your engine has over 1,100 hours on it, and your have now experienced this very serious failure, it would be prudent to tear the engine down to inspect the crankshaft, camshaft, and related bearings.
Inspect the cylinder walls for scoring (pre-galling streaks).
You will also need to replace the water pump (it is probably worn anyhow) if the engine is still salvable.
Radiator should ideally be flushed out (internal flush as well as complete cleaning of the core fins exterior).
New radiator cap and a new thermostat will be needed too, if the engine is salvable.
Click the link to read another recent case very similar to yours.
Here's what happens after you cut off the engine. First, the pressure in the cooling system immediately drops to 13 PSI (because that is the value of the relief valve setting).
With 13 PSI pressure in the cooling system, a small amount of coolant will be forced past the defective spot in the leaking head gasket and into the cylinder. This is why you are experiencing "hard to crank", the cylinder is "hydro-locking".

Here is a link that might be useful: 425 Kaw engine total loss?

Ignition Delay Module is probably causing the hard starting. It's a little box near the ignition module.

Mownie's post is dead-on about the coolant. Pressure check it. Poor man's check - get the engine hot and hold a coffee filter over the exhaust. If it gets sticky, there is coolant coming out. You can also run your finger in the exhaust pipe (when COOL!!!) to see if it's sticky/gooy.

Well, I guess I sort of overlooked some of the detail about the "starting problem" and inferred that it was not "cranking" properly.
But at this point, I maintain that the problem with how it starts is "the least" of your worries (contrary to what you may think).
Unless you address the coolant issue, you will soon not have to worry about starting this machine.

Water pump has a small weep hole that will let the coolant out. It can be hard to see, you may need a flashlight.

You may notice haze or steam like smoke puffing from the exhaust if you have coolant in the oil or blown headgasket. If you have a lot of coolant in the oil the water vapor etc can wet foul the plugs, had this on a Kubota this past week.

I would check the oil for a milky look. The water pump seals can fail and allow the coolant to enter the crankcase, since the pump is driven off the camshaft gear.

I have seen the Kawi engine's loose the pump seals and most of the water went into the engine, if so flush the engine after you replace the pump and 2 gaskets.

Torq the pump bolts to 70 lb in's and the 1 large bolt to 187 lb in's.

Good Luck

Forgot to mention the TDM, Time Delay Module.

Engine Tech is right, the black box is on the left hand rear side of the engine. I bypass those things most of the time unless the customer wants to keep it. Most say bypass it.

All you have to do is check for spark at both plugs. No spark at either plug could be a bad TDM. Spark at only one plug might just be a coil issue.