enailes, good call--we actually planted 27 spruces last fall throughout the property, including about 10 blue spruce and the rest norways. That cost a mint since we bought 8-footers and had them professionally planted, but we really needed them after removing generations worth of overgrown and neglected trees. We do have plans for more evergreens, including a dwarf (Globosa?) blue spruce in front of a stone wall, etc. They're just not shown in these images, but that's just because we have a lot of ground to cover! We haven't really planned for much evergreen foliage in the second photo because that side of the house isn't really visible unless you're actually using the outdoor spaces. The first photo has a huge Norway on the far left and then several more between the house and barn (out of frame). Also in the first photo, the largest foundation plants are evergreens. I am a big fan of grasses, though, and may very well add in some tall ornamental grasses in the second view, just for added winter interest. Thanks! karinl, I see your point about the term evergreen. I have pretty much decided against the vinca for all the reasons everyone has pointed out; now I'm giving this some more thought. I definitely don't want hostas, that much I know...alchemilla is a good thought though I was hoping for something slightly flatter to the ground for that layer (and I don't want yellow). Not crazy about ferns either, just in general, though of course I do have a full shade bed that is stocked with some ferns. Hmmm. This is a tough one. You sort of said what I was thinking about the dogwoods--the color is inaccurate in the photo, for one thing. And really I don't care if it clashes with the house, since we'll be looking at it from indoors! This particular area is far from the driveway, entry, etc. so guests won't see it either, and we're set several hundred feet back from the road with mature 80'+ evergreens and similarly mature deciduous trees blocking the view of the house from the road.

The main reason kousas are recommended over cornus florida is because they are less prone to disease. Dogwoods are a bit problematic. It always seems to be something with them. I don't think kousas look "great" in full sun. As for why pears are a bad idea, here are some reasons why. 1.) They are environmentally unfriendly as they are an invasive species that are taking over native forest including dogwoods (especially dogwoods!) and choking them out with thickets. 2.) They are weak wooded and have narrow crotch angles and break apart in storms. But they will get very big first creating an expensive tree surgeon service call. 2.5) They are short lived. 3.) The blooms smell bad. 4.) The blooms are short. 5.) The leaves drop very late in the season requiring second cleanup. 6.) Surface roots. Big ones. And they are numerous. 7.) Dense shade = no turf, moss, possibly unwanted perennial moisture, shrooms etc. 8.) The people that still grow these don't deserve one red cent. 9.) Partridges 10.) McFlora... yawn. Serviceberrys , crab apples, red maple and cherries are commonly suggested for full sun sites where flowering trees are desired as substitutes for callery pears. None of those are perfect either the small flowering trees in general are not the longest lived in the bunch but anything is better than a 40 foot tree that was planted 5 years prior that literally explodes in a seemingly innocent storm and lands on property or persons requiring thousands in cleanup or insurance deductibles, wrongful death lawsuits etc.

just stick them in the ground.. any time prior to ground freeze .. and let ma nature take care of them ... especially if they are dormant .... i would prefer a site out of sun.. and out of winter winds.. and worry about placement next spring.. as soon as the ground thaws .... my attached garage.. with a blacktop driveway.. can repeated hit 50 or 60 all winter long.. and return near zero at night.. not a great place to keep something in full dormancy .... the alternative would be an unheated shed or barn ... and you would simply put an ice cube or snowball ON the pot.. which could melt IF temps spiked ... ken

Why do you think you need to fertilize? You say in your post that the plants have done well with minimal maintenance so I wonder now at your desire to fertilize. Please excuse if my comment comes across as school teacher-ish, but when or how to fertilize is an often misunderstood concept for new or inexperienced gardeners. Much of this has to do with the advertising of companies like Miracle Gro, which are intended to have you believe that unless you fertilizer routinely (preferably with their product), your garden is doomed to failure. That is just NOT true!! Plants pull the nutrients they need to flourish and grow from the soil. And the soil is generally able to supply most, if not all, of these without our intervention. Especially if planting beds are well mulched seasonally with something like bark or wood chips or compost. Fertilizing is done only to supplement what nutrients might be depleted or missing. If your plants are growing and looking well with good color, flower as they should and otherwise appear healthy, then it is unlikely that additional fertilization is necessary. Some plants do benefit from some additional fertilization - annuals and edibles in particular - but most ornamentals established in the landscape seldom require additional fertilization. I never fertilize my garden - have never had a need to - but I do mulch every spring with compost. Fertilizing when not necessary can lead to as many issues with plant growth and health as not fertilizing when it is necessary. It is also a heavy contributor to pollution, which is another issue to keep in mind. Having said all that, a moderate application of a low dose organic fertilizer like Plant Tone will not hurt. And yes, an all purpose fert like the PT can be used on any plant. The bottom line is that routine fertilization is seldom necessary and not a required part of garden maintenance. The need for any fertilization should be evaluated on a case by case basis, typically as the result of a soil test determining a need for such, but otherwise by the gardener assessing the health and performance of the plants in question. If the plants look good, are behaving and performing as they should with normal growth, good color, proper leaf size and flowering as typical, then no need exists to fertilize. If you do not mulch your garden beds, I would encourage you to do so. There are many advantages and few disadvantages. Mulch will help to keep weeds to a minimum, protects against temperature swings, holds moisture in the soil, reducing the need for watering, and if using an organic/natural mulch, will continue to feed the soil as it breaks down, resupplying soil nutrients without a need for added fertilizers.