Garage Door Opener/Changing Security Code
MoonWalker
18 years ago
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MoonWalker
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Caftsman Garage Door Opener Code won't erase, neighbor open door
Comments (3)Try these tips. If one of your neighbors remote controls is inadvertently programmed into your receiver, you door will open when their remote is activated. If this happens you will need to clear out your receiver and reprogram your remote controls. Press and hold the smart/learn button for 6 seconds or until you see the small LED light near the button turn itself off. If the above steps have been followed and the symptoms continue, there may be an electronic short in either the wall control button or the receiver logic board. In this case, remove the wall control wires from terminals 1 and 2 on the motor unit. Should the symptoms persist after the wires are removed, replace the receiver logic board. If the symptoms stop with the wall control wires removed from the motor unit, replace the wall control button, and the wires leading to the wall control button....See Moresears garage door opener codes
Comments (3)According to my Chamberlain "cheat sheet" for field use, 5 blinks of the LED light on the motor head means.... "Possible RPM sensor failure/Motor Overheated - unplug to reset." 1st things 1st - just unplug the machine for 10 seconds, then plug it back it. Sometimes garage door openers are like computers and other electronics - they just need to be re-booted to clear the system out. Do that and then count the number of blinks (if any) and let me know....See MoreCraftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener code
Comments (1)On the back of the opener near where all those white wires go you will find a button. Press and immediately release this and walk over and key in any 4 digit code in your keypad and press enter. Should do it for you....See MoreGarage door opener opens automatically
Comments (22)The solution posted by GDS above was right on. When you come home and find your door open and you know it was closed before you left earlier, then depending on whether the light (clicker) is flashing or not, you have a good idea where to start looking for a solution. No clicking means that the door was ordered to open while you were away either by a stray radio signal with concidental code, a faulty manual push-button switch wired directly to the opener, or stray electro-static/magnetic interference causing an overly sensitive circuit board to behave eratically. A clicking light means that the motor came on by itself without any 'real' external command and attempted to push the closed door even harder against the garage floor and this triggered the overload protection which caused the door to open and the warning light to flash. GDS explains perfectly why the motor would spontaneously come on by itself without any remote command. The reason as reported above is that there is a double-throw,single-pole metal leaf switch (3 thin metal strips riveted together) which gets activated only when the door moves to its fully open or fully closed position. One switch, two roles to play, thanks to two plastic wands that move up and down with the motor to trigger a stop at either the upper or lower pre-programmed positions. This leaf switch is soldered to the circuit board by 3 joints, and over 16 years in my case, the constant pressure on this leaf switch (several inch-ounces of torque) can cause the solder joints to crack. And so they did in my case, as you need a magnifying glass to see these hairline cracks, but they were apparent to me, having worked in electronics for over 40 years. When wind vibrates the garage door, the vibrations feed back into the circuit board and the bad solder joint(s) temporarily opens the circuit which makes the motor think that it still needs to continue closing the door. Since the door can't be physically moved any more in the down direction, the safety micro-switch gets triggered by the overloaded motor and the door gets re-opened. To repair the bad solder joint(s), you need a 50 watt electronic technician's pencil shaped soldering iron and some thin solder that is designed for electronic work and not for copper plumbing. Overheating the solder tabs on the board will cause delamination. Better to let an expert do the work. Cheaper than replacing the whole board and in my case, I only needed an hour to solve this problem, which would have been impossible without this thread. Thanks GDS. All problems in life should have a posted solution like this one....See Moreraysouthbury
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