How to repair cut in aluminum head

14 years ago

I have a 1997 Simplicity with the CH25S Kohler engine, Spec No. 68583, S/N 2724025247. The right side head gasket blew out, a very small section to the oil return square port. The notch about 1/8" wide and 1/16" deep cut to the oil return port in the head. I am looking on how to repair this. I see aluminum repair "welding" kits that you can use a propane torch to "solder" the repair. I know that if I have it "tigÂd" the head will probably warp.

Has anyone successfully repaired a cut in an aluminum head?

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Comments (2)

larso1
14 years ago
They use JB Weld for cylinder heads (rated up to 500-deg.F). May be a good way to go, especially since it's such a small area to fill.
mownie
14 years ago
The JB Weld "might work". The problem with JB Weld in this case is that it is a "plastic" product. Because the "cut" in the head was created by combustion tracking, the JB Weld will be exposed to the same combustion temperatures at the end of the cut nearest to the combustion chamber. I believe the JB Weld would simply "bake & flake" out of the groove or cut after being subjected to the pressures and temperatures of operation and in the end, you would be right back where you were (with a combustion leak into the crankcase). Years ago (40 or more) there was a technique used to repair "cracks" that was called "stitching". In this "operation", a crack would be "filled" by drilling and tapping a hole at the beginning of the crack. A bolt or screw would be coated with "Permatex" and threaded into the hole. Then the bolt would be ground flush with the surface. A second hole was then drilled and tapped that centered on the crack, but overlapped into the first bolt a bit. A second bolt was "permatexed" and threaded into that hole. The drilling, tapping, and permatexing was repeated until the entire crack had been "filled in" with "stitches". I think this was mostly done where cast iron was the base structure. The thing about stitching was that it did nothing to restore "structural integrity" to the component. All that was really being done was "filling the crack" with permatex. If the crack was caused by water freezing in the block, an effective repair could be realized (effective means "NO LEAK"). If the crack also ran into, or through. part of the block that was subject to dynamic loads or stresses......it became a "boat anchor" or "foundry fodder".
I don't believe you need to be overly concerned about "warpage" from a TIG weld in this case. The heat will dissipate throughout the casting pretty radidly and because this casting is very compact, there is not going to be a large area remaining "cool" for the stresses that result in warpage to develop. If the head is welded, you will need to have the deck (head gasket sealing surface of the head) "planed" or milled. After installing the repaired head (if you do have it welded) you should run (but not under a load, idling is OK)the engine long enough to heat up the head, then allow it to cool til it is just about "coffee cup hot". When the head has cooled to this temp, retorque the head. This will further "relax" and seat the head squarely on the cylinder. You might think that the "aluminum solder" would result in less heat! I doubt that because of how fast aluminum transfers heat. Using a small propane torch as a heat source for aluminum soldering, you would practically heat the entire head up to solder ready temperature before you could deposit any solder into the "cut".
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How to repair cut in aluminum head

Comments (2)

larso1

mownie

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