It's fun to be a rose newby, that was me 22 years ago.. I use Immunox as a folliage spray which helps everything if sprayed early in the morning before the sun comes out. and liquid Bayer 3/1 about a capful but just the small cap not the new huge cap directly in the ground after the ground is already moist and than water again. I live in hot San Diego but only water maybe once a week because after making many mistakes I've learned to feel in the dirt 2" to see if it is moist and even though the top looks very dry there is usually a nice amount of moisture underneath. I learned to deadhead the roses from the fifth leaf branches and for the last year I look at the leaves before picking where to cut and you can actually see a new growth coming in and that's where you cut the branch a 1/4" from the new growth.
I must say that I too have some mildew and rust but some roses and other flowers are very fragile and if sprayed they just get crunchy or yellow leaves so I smash the little bugs by hand. I have found snails and grasshoppers in the plants where I see lots of yellow and get rid of the critters and you'll have a huge set of blooms.
One other thing is for years I had really tall bushes cutting off a portion of the daytime sun and this year and it was quite a job but I cut way back and removed some of those bushes and my gardens are right out of the magazine without too much help. You can buy all the expensive stuff for your garden or get a big bag of Vermiculite which is a mineral and helps to retain water and some inexpensive forms of mulches at good garden centers not like home depot which are loaded with worm castings and kelp ect. for a fraction of all the other stuff bough separately. Thats a start so happy gardening.

Sometimes washing the foliage off everyday for awhile helps get rid of powdery mildew. Powdery mildew doesn't thrive when you do that. Just make sure you wash your roses off early enough in the day so they dry before dark. I also remove the infected leaves if they are really bad. If that doesn't start working after a week or so, then you can always spray the leaves with something like Bayer fungicide. I never felt it was a good idea to drench the soil.

I have never heard of leaves turning yellow on a rose because of a zone difference. There is something else going on. It could be lack of water, too much water, poorly drained soil, transplant shock, poor qaulity bushes, etc.

I always pot my band size roses into one gallon containers, and when the roots fill those out, pot them up to about a two gallon size. After that, the root system should be large enough to be able to plant in the ground and get the rose off to a good start. A few people plant bands directly in the ground and have good luck, but that doesn't work out for me. The root systems on a band are awfully tiny, and they shock easily.

Thanks for your info. Debby, I have some other questions: when you said you use Immunox and liquid bayer, do you use it everyday? or there's a time period you need to spray your rose? for the new 1 year old rose, do you prune them? (sorry for such dumn question)

This is very helpful info. as well! I guess I should dig out my 5 bands from Heirloom and pot them until next spring? And you are right, those roses barely have any roots I am so nervous right now, band roses are not for newby for sure, but I guess I will try my best to keep them alive!

The fungicide label gives you a spray interval. Bayer or Immunox may be applied weekly or less often. The Cornell mixture, a home remedy, is quite effective. 1 TB baking soda, 2 TB spray oil per gallon.

Don't remove stems or leaves during the first growing season. The plant needs them to grow. You will prune in early spring next year, mainly to remove winter damage.

Tiny plants from Heirloom and Vintage are not good choices for beginners in zone 6. However, they should live. They need light watering every sunny day for a while until roots escape from the potting soil. Unless they are hardy kinds, they are in danger of freezing out next winter. You might want to pile dirt over them when temperatures drop to around 12 degrees, not before that. However, mounding poses a disease hazard too.

Only if I knew this wonderful site earlier and only if I knew what is band rose! Trust me I would never buy from Heiloom until I know a thing or two about roses and aware that's all they sale.

Thanks a lot guys! I have so much to learn from you!

Jing, your roses from Heirloom will probably be just fine this winter. Give them a good fertilizer like Good Morning Roses, expensive but worth every penny. They will put out enough roots to get through winter. I think digging them up and repotting them would be worse than leaving them alone.

I am not a "newbie" but still a beginner. All my bands are doing very well, except the ones I left in pots all winter.

Immunox works much better than Bayer Advanced Disease control for PM--while the disease control is better for Black Spot. It comes in two versions, the Immunox plus contains an insectide which kills good and bad insects--I'd avoid it and look for the fungicide only version.

Thanks Green H. and Zack, I will make notes for all your advices, you guys ROCK!!

If you've grown other plants from 4" pots, then you can grow a band...they really are no different. Keep it watered and it will grow. It's only been a month, they could be putting out roots. They are not dropping leaves or turning brown, so that's a good sign. I really wouldn't dig them up and pot them, I agree with greenhaven...just be patient...they will come along.
as for yellow leaves..yes..a difference in temps can cause the leaves to yellow...if they are coming from a warm greenhouse or a warmer climate and put into a climate with a lower temp, especially night temp., then they can get yellow leaves and they will drop..when your new leaves come out they should be normal because the plant has adjusted to your temps or your temps have risen by now.
you'll get the hang of it and be a pro in no time..don't worry. Donna

Sometimes, roses will mildew for their first couple of years, while they are still immature -- but stop mildewing after 3 or so years, when the plant is vigorous and mature.

OTOH, if you have a rose that is mature, and it is the only rose which is troubled by mildew for you, I have a permanent solution to the problem.
SHOVEL.

Roses that mildew more than a little after they are mature do not remain in my garden.
Life is too short to fool around with mildewy roses.
There are so many roses that don't mildew, which would be happy to fill that space.

Jeri

Thanks Donna and Jeri, I know I should be patient, hey I am not scared anymore I have you guys to help me out, hehe.

Jeri, you are right, I should shovel that rose if it keep having the same problem, I always have room for more roses! I think right now it's still small (I actually bought it from a supermarket last year, please don't laugh, because I want to try it out first) will keep you guys updated on this.

Jing

No one's laughin' Jing. Makes perfect sense. :-)

Jeri

Jing, you'll do fine with your roses. Part of the learning process involves making some mistakes. It sounds like you dug up your Heirloom roses already to pot them. I think they will do fine for you. Just keep them watered and when they recover a bit give them some diluted fish emulsion. It's stinky, but the roses will love it, and it won't burn their fragile roots. I wouldn't spray them with anything at this stage of the game either, unless it is plain water.

Your rose with mildew deserves a fair chance, but Jeri is right, if it NEVER gets better with age, you may not want to keep it.

Sandy

Thanks, I have that fish emulsion you talking about, I think I saw something like "do not fertilize your rose for the first month" on RU site, so I am waiting? should I wait? oh, I didn't dig my roses out, I just didn't plant the last one, it's in the pot now.

When it comes to any sort of fertilizer and teeny new roses, LESS IS MORE.

Newly-planted roses should not be fertilized until after their first flush of bloom. I'm sure people do it, but the results here have been disastrous.

They DON'T need nitrogen at this stage.
That would push top-growth and bloom production, which you don't want until there are roots to support it.

Just keep 'em watered (not drowned, but watered) and protected from blasting sun.
Remove any buds that form. Doing that will force the plant to grow roots, rather than topgrowth and bloom.

And relax. Roses are pretty tough.
That's why they've outlasted the dinosaurs. :-)

Jeri

I forgot about fertilizing new roses. Thanks for the correction!! I did mine, but it was well after their first month.

Thank you for the info. I have another question, my mini rose from HR arrived with buds, one of them already bloomed, should I cut the other buds and let it grow roots? I will post a picture later once figured out how to do it.

If I was made of sterner stuff, I'd probably cut them off. But I'm not, and I'd want to see them.

I guess it depends upon how well-grown the plant is.

Now, I DO cut the buds off of little roses we've just propagated (which would be analagous to band plants, I suppose). But I KNOW what those blooms are going to look like, so it's no loss.

Jeri

You are right Jeri, it's very hard for me to do that, the mini rose is called "Orange Honey", it's so cute and changes colors as it blooms... I really don't have a heart to do that, but if I have to I will. I will try to upload the picture later.

I grew Orange Honey long ago, and I don't blame you. It's a lovely little thing.
:-)

Jeri

Jeri, great catalog on your page for Heritage Rose, seems like you sell roses too? too bad you are in CA and I am in the cold PA... unless you ship. :)

Oh no! We don't sell roses!
Believe me -- I respect our wonderful vendors, and I wouldn't even try to compete with them!

We do try to propagate our less-common roses to help rose sales at the Sacramento City Cemetery Open Garden, and the Celebration of Old Roses.

Jeri

then I will visit one day with a pruning shear and bags hiding in my pants for sure, just in case you do not want to share... HA