If we pretended you never used a meter, we wouldn't know you had one, thus the ability to check for current flow. Modern meters are almost "too good" for some applications. You can probably get voltage reads just by touching the leads to the battery surface between the terminals, especially if it's an older battery with a dirty, oily film on it. The ammeter function is used in series instead of parallel like the voltage functions. You'll probably have a different "jack" to plug in the RED lead and a different range on the dial. Instead of V, it should be A. Used the HIGHEST range to start. That's probably either 2A or 10A, depending on the meter. You might want to use a pair of alligator clip leads like the cheap ones from Radio Shack etc. Likely, your draw is from the voltage regulator/charge diode at the engine. You didn't mention ANY model numbers for the machine or engine. If we knew that, we MIGHT be able to find an actual schematic to better look for potential trouble spots. Some schematics are readily available and some aren't.

Thanks for all the advice. The tiller was working fine before the belt broke. Started easily. Now new belt and it doesn't. A sheared pin sounds serious. Possible it could of sheared at the moment the belt broke? I suppose that might of happened. But as I recall after the belt broke I believe we started it a time or two to try different things to see what was wrong. How annoying. I'm even thinking about buying one of those hand tillers or just string trimming the tall weeds in the corners of the vegetable garden. Or even hoeing. Might end up being less work and less frustration!

starrah3, by now you may have given up on the "project", but in case you still are pursuing a solution I will try to "cover" some of the points in your last post. ...................................................... ***"adjuster balls (they feel a little loose when they are screwed onto the pivot screws"*** Well, they should "be free" enough to turn on the threads of the pivot stud, but they should NOT just "slide up and down" across the threads of the stud. Are the "set lock" jamb screws present (Refer to the "exploded illustration", one set screw per adjuster "ball")? If the "set lock" screws are missing, the adjuster ball will simply "unthread" itself during engine operation. ........................................................ ***"the rocker arm was wobbling all over the place"*** That one is a little hard to pinpoint exactly what you are "seeing". What you are describing sounds like the pivot stud is "loose in the cylinder head". If true, the stud might have "pulled the threads" out of its hole in the head. The repair procedure to "restore threads" is something that "can be done" by a DIY person BUT...If you do not already have the "tool kit" and the neccessary "inserts" to do this (and "most folks" DO NOT), you will be better off having it done in a machine shop or competent automotive shop. The thread restoring technique is usually called "Heli-coiling" or "Heli-coil insert repair". Heli-coil is just ONE trademark brand name and style of "insert style" thread restoration method. ........................................................... ***"I've heard that valves are generic, and need to be fitted to each engine"*** I certainly would like to have been present when that comment was offered to your ears. Generic? NO! Made to a "default factory standard or specification? Yes! In the case of your OHV engine, you will very likely be able to use the new valves "right out of the wrapper". The comment about "fitting to each engine", is only true in cases of "F-head" style engines, wherein "grinding the tip of the valve stem" is the ONLY way to affect proper valve lash adjustment (your OHV engine uses adjustable rockers to affect valve lash adjustment). Other instances where "custom fitting" of new valves might be required, would apply where the valve seat in the cylinder head was worn, cracked, or burned, and needed regrinding or replacement. I do not infer that your engine has a problem in the valve seats, so you should be able to just "pop in" a new valve and go. I do, however, suggest that you "check the contact pattern" of each valve and valve seat by doing a very light "valve lapping" procedure using valve lapping compound. Here again, you might want to relegate this to a competent shop (automotive or small engine type). Please post back with the "latest news".

I was able to get the keyway and engine shaft cleaned up with a file and emeroy cloth. Replaced the lower crank seal while i was at it. Put everything back together. I used Loctite as was suggested and anti-seize compound. I will have to clean the fuel system, replace fuel lines and filter, change the hydro oil and filter, and air the tires up, before i know how everything works. Also will remove the engine shroud and check for derbis/mice dens. Should end up with another decent tractor. Not sure what the deck will need yet, a belt for sure, and maybe new blades. Thanks again for your advice. For what it's worth, long ago i took a spare plastic fuel tank and mounted it up high on a pressure washer cart, added a long fuel line and shut off valve. I use this to start and run engines that have not been run in awhile.That way i know i've got fresh fuel at the carb.