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Craftsman Tractor Starting Problems

17 years ago

My Craftsman Lawn Tractor makes a hign pitch whining sound when I attempt to start it. The engige does not turn over. It sounds like the starter is spinning but not catching anything. I think the starter is shot. Before this problem started the engine make a metal grinding sound on start up. Once started it ran fine.

Any ideas?

Burgess

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Comments (6)

mownie
17 years ago
That indicates that the starter drive assembly (sometimes called a "Bendix" has failed, either by seizing up or by coming apart. At any rate, as you said, the starter is motoring but not engaging the enginee flywheel. Please post the engine brand and some engine numbers.
burgess
Original Author
17 years ago
It's a 21 HP twin Briggs and Stratton.
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Thank you for the advice. I tried touching both heavy terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver, got some sparks but no movement of the starter. I checked the voltage on the battery and it is still ~12V. I connected the battery charger to the battery and got the voltage up to near 15V then tried the touching the screwdriver to both heavy terminals again. Now the starter moves a little but in a way similar to my previous tests. Could it be a bad cell in the battery even if it is putting out 12Volts (or 15 with help from the charger)? I was talking to a co-worker today about the problem and he told me that most lawn tractor batteries don't last more than 4-5 years. The one in my tractor is original and a little over 7 years old. I remove the battery every season and store it in my basement. Before replacing the battery every season, I charge it up. Given all the information you gave me yesterday and learning that my battery has lasted a few years longer than is usual, I'm back to thinking it could be the battery. Before you told me that connecting a charger directly the starter doesn't necessarily provide enough juice to turn the starter, I'm back to thinking the battery could be bad. I'll buy a new battery tomorrow because it could be the problem. Even if it doesn't fix the problem, it sounds like it's time to get a new one anyway. Thank you, Scott
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Shows 0.00 vdc between those two points. Yes, I've followed the directions as close as I can, including 1/4" past TDC. Seems like I'm missing something in the adjustment, but had other people follow the directions with the same results. Electrical tests all seem to be okay, valves seem to be adjusted, flywheel key is in tact and the everything is torqued properly. I've also done the test of watching the intake valve and it appears as though the compression relief is working yet still too much to start. I'm so baffled by the fact that it started once the flywheel was torqued and then would not restart. I appreciate all your time and effort with my mess. Thanks.
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OP - If you've cleaned all start circuit elect connection points INCLUDING the ground side and engine mounts and are still experiencing the intermittent start problem, suspect problem may be in your starter solenoid - if your tractor is equipped with a separate solenoid bolted to the frame and is of the old Ford motor type.This solenoid has a round internal plate that is pulled down by a coil to make contact for the heavy starter motor current draw.. and that plate rotates randomly, sometimes becoming burnt in spots. When the plate happens to pulls down on the burnt spots, no contact is made. Multiple tries with the ignition switch sometimes cause this plate to rotate to an useable spot - and then the starter turns. First try jumping across the two large posts ( watch out for sparks) - starter should engage. Another thing - that solenoid should have either one or two smaller wires coming to it to energize the internal coil.. if only one, then the mounting of the solenoid to the frame is the GROUND for the energizing circuit and must be clean and solid. Lastly - if the component is suspect, they are not that expensive.. just be sure to get an exact replacement and take before/during/after pixs to keep from getting screwed up on what gets hooked where. Good luck
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Just wanted to post a follow up on the status of my tractor.. I got a replacement coil as was suggested and I did get a spark and finally got the tractor started again! Just wanted to say thanks to those who posted, especially mownie for providing the B&S site as the part listed on the Sears site was in fact different than what was on the B&S site. It did take a few more cranks than usual and had to take it out of choke to actually get it started, but I'm in business again just in time to get the final mowing of the leaves in! I'll keep an eye on the current situation of it not being able to start while in choke mode, but hopefully that's just because it hasn't been started in so long. If you have any immediate suggestions as to what the cause may be, feel free to post. Thanks again!
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tomplum
17 years ago
You will have to remove the top shroud and inspect the gear and drive. Possibly the gear is stuck down on the drive, the gear is worn and/ or the drive is worn. Check the condition of the flywheel teeth while you are at it. Unless your battery cables were recently removed and reversed?

Here is a link that might be useful: Briggs Parts
mownie
17 years ago
I went back and read your opening post carefully. The grinding type noise you heard prior to the present condition was most likely the starter drive unit coming apart or the teeth on the starter drive shearing and breaking off. It might be the inside of the starter drive stripped out. I believe you can get a replacement drive assembly without buying the entire starter, usually you can.
rcmoser
17 years ago
The plastic teeth are probably partly worn down and not enough teeth left on that side to grip the flywheel. This happened to me on my 18 year old briggs starter. I removed the gear turned it over and it's made a funny whine for awhile but it works like new now. I have two new plastic gear teeth but why use them when the orginal is not worn on both sides yet. My vangaurd engine is an older one don't know if it will work on a newer briggs starter setup. I would sure look at the teeth probably a 5 dollar part to fix it.
walt2002
17 years ago
"I removed the gear turned it over and it's made a funny whine for awhile but it works like new now. I have two new plastic gear teeth but why use them when the orginal is not worn on both sides yet."

Well that is a new one on me. There IS an UP side and a DOWN side to B&S starter gears. They generally do not work right when installed upside down. Last I checked a new B&S plastic type starter gear was about $2.50. Some of the newer ones are back to being metal again.

Walt Conner

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