tractor won't start - bad starter? Update.

14 years ago

Hi, my original post got hijacked. Please see my response on the original thread for an update to what's happening...I still need help.

Thanks everyone!

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rcmoser
14 years ago
I would Remove the spark plugs or plug and see if it spins easily and watch for raw gas shooting out in a mist? especially if I smelt raw gas (if so your carb. float maybe sticking flooding the comb. chamber and wetting the spark plugs if it is gravity feed fuel system"?

that comment was meant for you the orginal poster! Did you not read it? I think you answered your own questions. I filled the gas tank before storage and now there was not gas in it? Muffler was wet? when I changed the fuel filter odd no fuel in line? I'm too lazy to look up the model you posted, does it have a fuel pump or is the gas tank above the engine?

I would quess that the carb. float stuck and leaked all the gas out through the exhaust ( if the exhaust valve was open during storage? I would also check the oil for gas in it. A good sign would be it way over filled or you smell gas in the oil. IF so drain the oil and refill. Now I would go back to the carb. find out why it leaking gas? probably the float needle not seating alowing gas to seep pass. I also think the reason it wouldn't turn over was the cylinder or cylinders was full of gas causing a hydraulic seizure. I would remove the carb. bowl again (if you can reseal it without creating a leak) spray down the float and seat with carb. and any small passages you see. install the bowl, prime it and see if it will run. You may have to prime it several times till the bowl fills up with fuel.

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This problem could be all the things mentioned by the others. Here is another idea that was not mentioned. I have experienced the same problem and the solution was very simple. When the key is turned to the crank position, battery voltage is sent to positive spade on the starter relay. A common wire (ground) is connected to the second spade on the starter relay. On many of the Craftsman riders, this common wire is connected to the frame with a sheet metal bolt located over the right rear tire. I have found secure bolts holding the wire tight, but no connectivity. If this is the case, find the wire, wiggle the bolt with a wrench and tighten down.
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That recorded sound is a bit "inconclusive", but I will venture to say it is either due to the rapid activate/deactivate cycling of the starting relay (the solenoid) because of a low and "borderline dead" battery...........OR else, the starter drive pinion gear or the flywheel gear teeth are sheared off. The easiest way to determine if the battery is the culprit is to "boost" or jump start the machine using another vehicle and jumper cables. If the machine refuses to start with a boost, and still makes the noise, you need to double check ALL the connections of the battery cables, not just at the battery but anywhere either of the cables has a connecting point to the frame, the engine, the solenoid, the starter.........ALL connections are equally important. If you find nothing wrong in the way the cables are connected, then, you can concentrate on the starter itself.
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try jumping the positive lead from the battery to the post on the starter motor... this bypasses the solenoid and ignition... if you can get it spinning easily - then you got a faulty ground , solenoid, or ign switch... I had the same issue... turned out the valves needed adjusting on mine ... if yours is about 4 years old; I could understand where a valve adjustment might be in order .. (too bad really - they are basically free if your inclined to do it yourself) ... Depending on your motor - you may have a compression release ... if your valve lash is too great the compression release does not take effect - thereby your starter would not be able to spin the motor... have you checked your oil before we get started ? :) If its an B&S overhead valve engine - you can get your engine type and model numbers off valve covers (at least some of them).
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Seat switch connector has a built in "shorting bar" which will close the kill circuit when the connector is unplugged from the switch. Unplugging the connector from the switch gives the same results as if the seat is not occupied. Seat switch is just one switch in the safety interlock circuitry that can cause the engine to have no spark. The brake pedal interlock switch is actually 2 switches in one assembly. One of the brake switches is dedicated to starter inhibition, and the other switch is to kill spark and stop the engine. The PTO switch also has a circuit dedicated to the kill wire. You can disconnect the kill wire from the magneto to see if that restores spark. If doing that restores spark, something is grounding the kill wire somewhere. Could be a chafed wire.
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tractor won't start - bad starter? Update.

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rcmoser

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