Must be some kind of springy keepers that clip onto the ends of pins that fit thru holes in some part of the deck, or vice-versa! Rustyj

I would think so. They did build these with somewhat different specs in the series, but seeing as though they are basically out of the same tractor -that is working in your favor. You could go to the Deere parts look up and compare the adjoining parts such as wheels , links etc- which you are fortunate having donor parts to make the swap should they have differences,

Deere wiring diagrams don't actually tell where to look for an over-current device, at least not in words. And looking at a few STX diagrams online I see that Deere may even have used (on various production years) a fuse, or a circuit breaker, or even a fusible link...........to accomplish the same protection for this circuit. I can tell you in electrical terms where you will need to begin searching for whichever type of interrupter yours has, but you will still need to physically do the hunting. The fuse, circuit breaker, or the fusible link will be part of a circuit coming off of the BATTERY CABLE POST on the STARTER SOLENOID (not the solenoid starter cable post) . The circuit will be a small wire that is on the same post of the starter solenoid as the cable coming from the battery + post. If you can locate that wire and trace it you should find whatever your model uses. The circuit originates at the starter solenoid and ends at the key switch, and the circuit is in fact the hot feed for the key switch.

(1) Disconnect tank outlet line to check for a strong fuel flow. Loosen cap.Blow air through the inlet line into gas tank,if slow.(2) If OK, Install (solder) a brass hose fitting in a gallon metal can to make a temporary fuel tank.Put ths 'tank' on top of tractor,and run a fuel line from it to the carb inlet.Add about a qt of fuel.Run engine.This can help pinpoint the problem area,if a fuel delivery problem.