quick fix (is there no such thing) for Nitrogen deficiency
LeroyWhite
12 years ago
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ralleia
12 years agoLeroyWhite
12 years agoRelated Discussions
nitrogen deficiency in gritty mix?
Comments (26)All my soils (even the 5:1:1 mix) drain very quickly. Water runs through the gritty mix so fast it's almost like there's nothing there to slow it down, and the soil has to be pretty much fully colonized by roots to slow water down to the point where it's possible to overflow (over the top) any pots larger than 4", unless the size of the drain hole is very restrictive, this, even with the hose flow control wide open. I prefer my soils this way. I feel that maximizing aeration within the limits of our ability to keep the plant hydrated offers the best opportunity for plants to grow to their potential; and yes, it does require the added effort that comes with shortened intervals between waterings, but that's something we need to decide individually - whether or not we're down for the added inconvenience. For me, it's a no brainer - I'm glad to go the extra shift for healthier plants, but not all our priorities are ordered along the same lines, and there is no fault in how they're established. I will say that I've grown peppers and plenty of other fruiting plants in the gritty mix with very good results, both in terms of yields and plant vitality, but I'm not growing in Texas heat, either - possibly a consideration. This year, all my peppers are in the 5:1:1 mix and are very happy, in spite of the fact that we've had several 2 week stretches of temps in the upper 90s this summer, and it's 92* now as I write. You guys worry a LOT more about pH than I ever did. My water is very high in pH at an average of 8.8. Still, my plants get all the nutrients they need and exhibit no deficiencies in the summer, as long as I flush enough to stop carbonate accumulation and it's upward push of pH in my media. Winter is a little different. I DO see some Fe deficiency toward the end of winter for indoor-grown plant material because I'm not set up to flush the 150 or so indoor plants as thoroughly and freely as I can when they're outdoors on the growing benches. So, in winter I acidify my irrigation water and fertigation solution, which corrects any Fe issues and I assume any other micronutrient issues that might want to tag along. I also frequently include applications of an Fe chelate formulated for high pH situations (Sprint 138) 4-6 times yearly. Al...See Morenitrogen deficiency
Comments (1)Well you can always re-test. But realistically speaking, your plants may tell the tale. If growth picks up significantly after you have added nitrogen, then all is well. The thing is, nitrogen comes and goes, and the amount in the soil can change pretty quickly based on weather, time of the year, what's planted, etc. etc. Give your plants a quick shot in the arm with some fish emulsion or other soluble organic nitrogen fertilizer. Then treat the underlying problem by adding compost. If it's too late to mix compost in with the soil because the plants are already in the ground, then use the compost as mulch. This will give your plants another shot of nitrogen as it leaches out of the mulch, and then the soil biota will begin to incorporate the organic matter into the soil, where it can better hold nitrogen in the future. -Diggity Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Imperative blog...See MoreYellow leaves, Nitrogen deficiency?
Comments (4)It's nitrogen deficiency, probably exacerbated by nitrogen "tie-up" from undecomposed wood in the mulch. Fish emulsion fertilizer will solve it if you want to stay organic. All purpose miracle-gro will produce quick results if you're okay with synthetics. I'd supplement that with foliar feeding from either source as often as you can until the problem is abated. Use a more dilute solution for foliar feeding. Squash are very heavy feeders, especially when young. The only explanation I can give for peppers and tomatoes is that peppers grow more slowly to start out with. Tomatoes are also heavy feeders, so I'm not sure why you're not seeing problems there. If they are transplants you bought, it's likely that they were already heavily loaded with fertilizer when you bought them, and that's carrying them over for now. I'm not familiar with soils in California, but it may be prudent to add a source of magnesium and/or calcium to your raised bed soil. Dolomitic lime provides both, but can raise the pH. Lime was probably mixed into the soil you bought, but not the compost. Gypsum is pH neutral and provides calcium. Epsom salts provide magnesium, but are very soluble and therefore must be included in irrigation water. All-purpose miracle grow doesn't contain calcium or magnesium (few fertilizers do because of formulation issues)....See MorePeach Tree Nitrogen Deficiency in October?
Comments (7)Contrary to the literature, I have not found post-Aug Nitrogen applications capable of stimulating new growth and even Aug applications only cause rank growth on branch tips- the rest of the tree seems to harden off in a manner unaffected by the late growth. I wish someone would do some research on this issue because I feel it is one of those things that gets repeated by academics without any specific research to back it up. Now, on your question, I agree with FN that there is no point in fertilizing now and also that it wouldn't hurt, might even help a tiny bit by getting some into the buds for a slightly quicker spring flush although I don't notice this affect on fall fertilizing of peaches. Probably just as well to wait until first growth in spring and then supply another application in early summer. With trees in potting soil it is easy for them to dry out when first transplanted and that could cause a quick change in leaf color- so it could just as well be too little water as too much. If finer soil around the coarse texture of potting soil is dry it will suck out any water from the potting soil by capillary pull drying it very quickly. At the same time, the coarser mix can't pull water from finer soil. This is a complication with planting potted trees. With peaches I find bare root trees tend to establish faster....See Morejoepyeweed
12 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
12 years agoceth_k
12 years agoKimmsr
12 years agolazy_gardens
12 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
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