All my soils (even the 5:1:1 mix) drain very quickly. Water runs through the gritty mix so fast it's almost like there's nothing there to slow it down, and the soil has to be pretty much fully colonized by roots to slow water down to the point where it's possible to overflow (over the top) any pots larger than 4", unless the size of the drain hole is very restrictive, this, even with the hose flow control wide open. I prefer my soils this way. I feel that maximizing aeration within the limits of our ability to keep the plant hydrated offers the best opportunity for plants to grow to their potential; and yes, it does require the added effort that comes with shortened intervals between waterings, but that's something we need to decide individually - whether or not we're down for the added inconvenience. For me, it's a no brainer - I'm glad to go the extra shift for healthier plants, but not all our priorities are ordered along the same lines, and there is no fault in how they're established. I will say that I've grown peppers and plenty of other fruiting plants in the gritty mix with very good results, both in terms of yields and plant vitality, but I'm not growing in Texas heat, either - possibly a consideration. This year, all my peppers are in the 5:1:1 mix and are very happy, in spite of the fact that we've had several 2 week stretches of temps in the upper 90s this summer, and it's 92* now as I write. You guys worry a LOT more about pH than I ever did. My water is very high in pH at an average of 8.8. Still, my plants get all the nutrients they need and exhibit no deficiencies in the summer, as long as I flush enough to stop carbonate accumulation and it's upward push of pH in my media. Winter is a little different. I DO see some Fe deficiency toward the end of winter for indoor-grown plant material because I'm not set up to flush the 150 or so indoor plants as thoroughly and freely as I can when they're outdoors on the growing benches. So, in winter I acidify my irrigation water and fertigation solution, which corrects any Fe issues and I assume any other micronutrient issues that might want to tag along. I also frequently include applications of an Fe chelate formulated for high pH situations (Sprint 138) 4-6 times yearly. Al

It's nitrogen deficiency, probably exacerbated by nitrogen "tie-up" from undecomposed wood in the mulch. Fish emulsion fertilizer will solve it if you want to stay organic. All purpose miracle-gro will produce quick results if you're okay with synthetics. I'd supplement that with foliar feeding from either source as often as you can until the problem is abated. Use a more dilute solution for foliar feeding. Squash are very heavy feeders, especially when young. The only explanation I can give for peppers and tomatoes is that peppers grow more slowly to start out with. Tomatoes are also heavy feeders, so I'm not sure why you're not seeing problems there. If they are transplants you bought, it's likely that they were already heavily loaded with fertilizer when you bought them, and that's carrying them over for now. I'm not familiar with soils in California, but it may be prudent to add a source of magnesium and/or calcium to your raised bed soil. Dolomitic lime provides both, but can raise the pH. Lime was probably mixed into the soil you bought, but not the compost. Gypsum is pH neutral and provides calcium. Epsom salts provide magnesium, but are very soluble and therefore must be included in irrigation water. All-purpose miracle grow doesn't contain calcium or magnesium (few fertilizers do because of formulation issues).

I dont know, it almost looks EXACTLY the same as my trees. My peach trees also pick up in the late spring after a good feeding and the spots go away and the leaves and new growth are huge and green. It also happened to a different peach tree of mine that I transplanted from a pot. As I was moving it from the pot to the hole in the ground a big chunk of dirt fell off taking alot of new root growth with it. After I planted it in the ground the same exact spots appeared but after a few months and a feeding they went away and are growing healthy and green. But to be on the safe side next year I would spray copper at the proper time around or before shuck split just in case it is bacterial spot. Too bad bacterial spot looks almost EXACTLY as nitrogen deficiency and root damage.

It worked guys. I watered thoroughly every day for two to three weeks and the nitrogen levels are slightly elevated from the surrounding soil (what I wanted). The leaves are growing back on the bare branches. I stopped the ammonium sulfate applications (though a small amount may be useful in preparing the tree for spring with a small 10-10-10 or 5-5-5 dose of general fertilizer in late March-April. Anyway, they're coming back nicely. I put a sprinkling of blood meal on the soil to keep the nitrogen levels slightly elevated. Watered it good. Then put about 5 inches of mulch in the drip zone. They're already beginning to bloom again. The reason I was so adamant about nitrogen was because my soil is so incredibly low in it. Two years later and the trunk hasn't thickened at all. I find the nitrogen does encourage stronger limbs and a thicker trunk. Flowers will be welcome when the trees are able to stand without a stake (hopefully next year). I'm not going to prune this spring. I'll hold off until the following so the limbs can actually bear the weight of the flowers. Anyway thanks for the advice! Now if I could figure out how to fertilize my photinias without them dying and leaves getting torched by the sun!