thanks Tom. It is a 42 inch deck. I called a JD Dealer and they indicated everything is ok. The hydrostat tranny stops the machine when you abruptly remove your foot from the forward pedal. The JD guy indicated it will take a few minutes to get familar with the automatic tranny as compared to my old direct geared machine. I am going ahead and buy the machine today. I will have more info later today. Hopefully, this machine will lower my risk of any failure and set me up for the next 15 years.

In looking at the wiring diagrams for both the machines (917.276020 & 917.276310), I see no differences between the two except for the Kohler version (020) featuring an operator presence relay where the Briggs version (310) features a more "complex" seat switch to accomplish the same goal. If,........you are connecting the white wire to the small terminal on the starter solenoid, you are making the correct connection,........AND the solenoid is in fact mounted to a grounded, metal surface or has been provided with a separate grounding jumper wire to ground the solenoid case! So, you might want to test that the solenoid is grounded by touching the probe of a test light (or volt meter) to the battery positive post and the other end/lead to the metal case of the solenoid body. If you detect voltage or the light burns, the solenoid is grounded. If you don't detect voltage, it is not grounded and you need to address that first. So let's go through some checks to determine what the trouble might be. The following outline is a step by step that will guide you through. Refer to the wiring diagram for your 917.276020 for the identifying "alpha characters" I refer to in the text. Make certain there is not a blown fuse before you do these tests. (begin test outline) It could be a "bad key switch" but my feeling is "bad clutch/brake switch", but it could be a "bad PTO switch" just as easy, so let's do some testing first. You have a volt meter and/or 12V test light? Be advised that moving or wiggling wires while doing these tests could result in continuity being accidently restored AND this might cause the starter to engage when you don't expect it to. To guard against this, unplug the small white wire from the starter solenoid and cover the wire terminal with tape to prevent a short. First off, you will need to access the backside of the key switch. Step 1. Find the WHITE wire on the back of key switch connector. (leave the connector attached to the switch) While holding the key in the start position, probe the area where the white wire enters the connector body with a test light or a volt meter. You should detect voltage on the test light or the volt meter. If you do not detect voltage, replace the key switch. If you detect voltage, go to step 2. Step 2. Find the PTO switch and identify terminals C & G on the switch. Probe terminal C while the key is in start position. If you detect voltage at C, probe terminal G next. If you detect voltage at C but not at G, replace the PTO switch (make double dang sure the PTO switch is in the OFF position). If you detect voltage at C & G, go to step 3. Step 3. Locate the clutch/brake interlock switch (should be near the pedal or close by, must be attached so pedal linkage can operate the switch. This switch will feature 4 wires, 2 will be white. With the key in the start position, and the pedal locked or held down, probe the white wires of the brake/clutch switch. If you detect voltage on one white wire only, make certain that the switch plunger is actually moving in far enough to operate the switch. If the plunger is moving far enough to operate the switch, but you still detect voltage on just 1 white wire of the switch, replace the clutch/brake switch. The seat switch does not inhibit cranking on this mower, it only functions to kill the ignition spark. Malfunctions in the PTO switch or the clutch/brake switch are capable of killing spark AND inhibiting the starter. Remember to reconnect the white wire to the starter solenoid after testing. I hope this helps in troubleshooting the interlock circuits. (end outline) After doing these tests, post back your results.

14 years ago I bought my Deere STX 38. At the time I knew nothing of lawn tractors and I can't say today that I know very much more... I wanted a Cub Cadet as for years Cub Cadet was the offical lawn tractor of the Chicago Cubs... Yes, I know it sounds silly now. Problem was there wasn't a CC dealer anywhere near me. As it turned out, I mentioned wanting a tractor to our banker when we closed on the house. He happened to be best friends with the gentleman that owned the local Deere dealer and made a call on my behalf. As I stated, I've got the STX 38, 5-Speed, mulch kit, rear bagger and trailer delivered all for about $2k. My lot is almost an acre and I live in Chicagoland so my season is limited. I do all the regular maintenance and to date I have replaced the carb, and the PTO. My daughter thought the hood was a metal car hood so she dropped it after checking the oil and that has been replaced once as as well. After 14 years I don't feel I'm trying to justify a purchase, I know what I bought and she has been a great workhorse for me. I can see why folks fall in love with the green and yellow. I recently got the itch for a new tractor. I found this forum and several others and looked at several tractors I've never even considered before, Simplicity and Kubota. Both were amazing!! Looked at a X300 as well and was equally wowed. After all the forum lurking I've seen an underlying respect for well maintained old machines. Mine just finished the yard, got a good bath and a coat of wax. Looks like something new will not appear in my shed till this old STX just decides she's had enough. As for what's better, who knows... All companies made an Edsel once or twice, but all I can say is good maintainance and a little respect for your tractor, of any type, and most will last a long time.

The basic tractor is a nice little lawn tractor. However, it is the bottom of this line of LT's, has had enough use to damage the narrow 38" deck, and has no bagger ($400. if you need to buy it new). It is also older -2000 or earlier. For not not much more you can find a nice later version like an LT 150 or LT 160 with very nice hydro, more power, bagger, 42", possible even the Freedom dedicated mulching deck (unless you need to bag leaves, etc). This is coming into the season for getting some really good deals. I bought my LT160 with JD cart, Freedom deck, 64 hours for $900 over 3 years ago, in the snow.