'topsoil' to compost ratio? New Beds
coconut_head
12 years ago
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leira
12 years agoLloyd
12 years agoRelated Discussions
compost or topsoil+compost
Comments (11)It really does depend upon your conditions, but I had quite good results with tomatoes by spreading leaves (mostly maple and oak, overwintered and not completely deteriorated) over an area I was converting from hardpan to a 6 inch raised bed, and then using almost all compost on top of that...I might have thrown in a little sand and topsoil, but not much, and I didn't mix anything. What I did do, though, was plant my tomato plants deep enough that their roots were at least 2 inches into the actual soil below. This wouldn't wok as well with plantings fom seed or some othe plants, but possibly planting in deep furrows would wok. We had a fairly rainy summer when I did that, but even during dry spells the plants were fine. The leaves seemed to keep moisture in the compost, but the roots were also deep enough to go into the actual soil. By the fall, the raised bed was full of enriched soil, with no trace of the leaf layer. My soil is heavy clay, and after years of struggling with it, my approach is to now let the earthworms sort it out. I try to put down whatever I think they will like and hope that they will come and do their job. I never use poisons, which helps. One of the reasons for my dislike of digging too much into heavy clay is that, if it is too wet, it will turn to brick when it dries, and if it is already dry, it is like digging into brick to begin with. There are of course more nutrients than in sand, but you really have to watch how you work with it. Unless you work with it under optimal conditions (faintly damp and crumbly) you are better off not disturbing it. I also think that smaller ants sometimes help to aerate the soil. They like to dig under upside-down plastic plant containers full of soil. (I don't think I would encourage that where thee are fire ants, though). Larger ants seem to cause things to dry out too much directly next to or in their nests, but in large plantings they are probably generally beneficial to most of the plants, if they are not into aphid farming. Man, do I love to let bugs do my work for me. I am willing to wait a season for optimal results if they will just pitch in and help. I can't do heavy digging anymore, anyway, so I really have no choice, but I have never been a fan of heavy digging. My DH put in an asparagus bed last summer, and it almost killed him....See MoreTopsoil-compost ratio, newbie question! :)
Comments (30)When discussing soil organic matter fractions or percentages it is critical to distinguish what is being reported or discussed. Is it volume percent or weight percent that is being discussed? Soil labs and soil scientists commonly report and discuss soil fractions on a dry weight basis. That would include the familiar recommendations for soil OM in the range of 5-10%, as well as lab reported test results of organic matter. That is a weight fraction, based upon oven dried weights. The bulk density of soils and organic materials is commonly reported on a dry weight basis. A fairly typical, average mineral soil bulk density is ~ 2600 lbs/cubic yard. The typical bulk density, again dry weight basis, for common soil organic amendments (e.g. compost) is ~ 1,000 lbs per cubic yard. The typical OM bulk density is only ~40% of that of a baseline mineral soil, and the range can be about 25% to 50%. As an example, consider the johnhughes 25% compost number as a volume fraction - mix 1 yard of compost (dry bulk density 1,000 lbs/yard) with 3 yards of mineral soil (dry bulk density 2600 lbs/yard) to produce 4 yards of soil, total weight 8800lbs. Assume everything is at a comparable moisture level. While the mix fraction was 25% by volume, the weight fraction will be ~ 11%, and that is what a soil lab test of OM would ideally report. As a general rule-of-thumb for soil mixtures, the net weight fraction (percent) of organic matter will be ~ 1/2 of the volume fraction, again assuming similar moisture levels for the mineral and organic phases. Hence the familiar 5-10% soil OM recommendation translates to 10-20 % soil OM by volume. So if you wanted to increase soil OM by 7.5% (weight) you would add 15% OM by volume, or nearly 1-inch of OM on top then mixed into 6 inches of underlying soil. That's not allowing for the issues associated with testing for OM. This post was edited by TXEB on Fri, Sep 6, 13 at 0:32...See MoreUCG Ratio In New Raised Beds
Comments (24)About 92 percent mineral soil and about 8 percent organic matter does not mean exactly, that is a rough ratio to shoot for. Most soil scientists would say that 5 percent OM is adequate, but I have found over the years that plants simply grow better when the OM is in the 8 percent range. In addition to a soil test from a reputable lab that tells you what the soils pH and major nutrient levels are34 maybe these simple soil tests will be of some help, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See Moresoil to compost ratio
Comments (13)Hi there. I garden over sand so my situation is a little different but my methods would probably work just fine over clay too. Notice I said over. I don't like digging, seems like too much work for me. I also have a problem with buying bagged dirt (or anything that seems sort of like bagged dirt.) Anyway, I've only been gardening here in Central FL for about two years. You asked about perlite or vermiculite, for this purpose either would probably work but in my view, a bit costly for mixing into an on the ground garden bed. As to hummus, it is really just very small bits of organic matter. Compost should have loads of hummus. Peat is a type of hummus. Coco peat or coco coir could work as hummus. Shredded leaf mould is essentially hummus. My gardens are all sort of raised beds (they started as raised beds on the ground without any sort of side boards, just mounded up) but over time they have shrunk down a bit over time. They started as lasagna type gardens where I put down layers of cardboard/newspaper and then covered over it with layers of compost, other people's bagged leaves, mushroom compost, other people's bagged grass clippings, used coffee grounds, kitchen scraps, free mulch from tree services, etc. Basically, whatever I could find for free/cheap. The nice things about such gardening include good water holding capacity but freely draining. Rich improvement of the soil. Weeds are easy to pull out (at least if you get them while they are small, some grasses can still be a real pain.) It is really easy to do and little/no digging or tilling involved. I know there are people out there who insist that you need mineral soil to grow in but I've found that not to be the case for most plants I've been growing. Good luck Here is a link that might be useful: www.TCLynx.com...See Morecoconut_head
12 years agococonut_head
12 years agoLloyd
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