The needle should have the rubber tip. 808798 is the part #. It will have two needle valves in the kit, pick the right one.

Thanks, only had the steel one in the kit? I could put the old used one back in perhaps. Doesn't the seat have to match the needle as well? (Which is why I changed the seat)

What part # did you use? A solid seat w/ no viton insert should use the viton tipped valve.

I used Briggs original carb rebuild kit # 694056. Interesting you're saying this because, the new seat was solid brass just like the old one, and there was no viton to be found anywhere. I did however have a few parts left over from the kit. In the pic below, I do question the o-ring and small flat brass washer.. no idea where they should go. Thanks for your help so far!

I should have noted by the date that yours was an older model. The numbers that I had listed do not apply. Your float valve does have a viton tip- just that it is grey in color. The good news that your float is adjustable and should be set level with the top of carb inverted. You can even cheat a little and lower the level of the fuel in the bowl slightly. Some of these like that and spit less on accel. One thing that I found is that the little wire on the valve can be installed either way in the float. Furthest away from the float pin is best. In the end though, you may want to verify the assembly order of the pump components. I have done that one once myself and created a flooding condition as the fuel tank was under the hood. The valve part # without the seat is 394681 should you wish to try another.

Here's a pic of the float as it was removed from the carb. Based on what everyone is saying, it's COMPLETELY wrong. :-) Now, I took another look and it seems my new needle does have the Viton end (It was just a silvery grey). So, after bending the tab a little on the float, I can't seem to get it to come up at all. I'm worried about bending it too much. I'll post a follow up pic of the needle/seat area.

Here's a detailed pic of the needle area. Do I have this installed properly? and am I allowed to bend that tab on the float a lot more? It seems like it's so much further than it was designed for. Also, look at the seat. It's slightly recessed in the top of the carb. Since I didn't have a manual stating how deep to drive it in, I set it at the depth of the previous one (which could have been wrong!)

This post was edited by Slowcorrado on Fri, Apr 5, 13 at 18:26

I guess all you can do is try to make up for it by bending the tab. You can buy the seat kit 394682 and try again. I use a small router shaft thingie w/ a flange that will only let it press in to level with the casting

Update: I bent the tab further and was able to level the float (held upside down). Installed it, started it up and VOILA! no more pouring fuel. Yay! It didn't run totally right, seemed to actually go lean a bit as it would run somewhat better with the choke partially on. So, I fiddled with the only adjustment screw. (I'm guessing the idle mixture screw?) and set it 1.5 turns out from seated. Now it seems to run/idle pretty smoothly. I don't have much reference on how it should sound, but driving it around the yard it never lost power at all. Now, to get the deck reconditioned and actually try to mow with it! Yay!