I dont like either of them- just my opinion. A buddy has a used john deer 138 ( i think)with a kawasaki motor- its heavy (800 lbs)- hes had some issues with it- electrical problems, tire problems( due to the original front axle being replaced- but was wrong one- how does someone break a cast iron axle anyway?)- biggest issue was the plastic fan on the hydrostatic trans kept getting shattered when reversing( talk about pricey! Each one cost $20)- clearance issues. It took him a while- but he sorted out the problems. My neighbor bot a new Cub a few years back- besides the dealer jerking her around- the tractor seems to be a serious maintence hog - it too is a very heavy machine( heck the deck weighs a ton alone)- it constantly has grass clippings clogging up the top of the deck ( after every mowing it needs claening) - goes thru blades like crazy ( nothing to hit in the large yard- its entirely flat- they just wear out)and - its SLOW. I do admit tho it cuts the grass nice. I nearly bot a new Cub tractor Z turn ( I series)- would make a neat looking modifed tractor- wife wouldnt let me tho.

I recently found with my kohler 12.5 command and no cranking but would just click, it was the little black box in rear of of tractor by battery on left side. The wires in and out are red. It has two 90 degree black rubber boots connected to it and the terminals in them were rusted and broken I also replaced the relay, found on amazon, cost about $19.95 Now starts awesome. There is also a fuse under the black plastic cover by the ignition switch that blows, and a fuseable Linc that burns out on the red wire on black relay box on right side rear back by battery, check fuesable Linc on both sides of a little diode that is in line no power on one side..it's bad and replace! But now I am struggling with the engine dying after 30 minutes of running. And mine has fresh tune up, with filters, and oil change and filter. I will figure it out and keep every one posted. Mike

Thank-you for your replies. Very helpful!!! DavidandKasie it is very interesting what you said in reference to exchanging to a larger HP engine. You have just thrown a spanner in the works now with my thought processes:)!! lol. Back to the drawing board. I intend to purchase a trailer for said lawntractor but i have no intention of hauling heavy stuff in said trailer - just sticks mainly when i do a cleaning sweep. i.e i don't invision the trailer weight to every get over 100kg (200pounds) every - thus i do not require much 'pulling power'. I have also been warned that trying to tow too much weight may result in a blown transmission. P.S both machines are 2 bladed.

You need just a bit of clarification on using that charger. If all you have for setting options (amp ratings) is 2, 4, & 6 AMP, you SHOULD NOT engage the starter while the charger is connected to the battery! Small chargers like this don't always have good "overcurrent" protection (internal circuit breaker) and the load of the starter being applied to the charger could be the death of the charger. UNLESS a charger features a selection for "Boost Start" or something like that, never engage the starter without disconnecting the charger first. If the battery is very much discharged (weak) you will need to leave the charger connected for around 24 hours at 6 amp before the battery will gain enough capacity to function in cranking duties. (amount of charge in battery determines the exact amount of time at a specific amp rate to reach full charge). Having the battery tested by a competent shop could reveal whether the battery is shot or not. Another issue to cover in "no start" situations is whether corrosion has developed in the large cable circuits that serve the starter system. Both battery post connections, both large posts on the starter solenoid, the starter cable on the starter case, as well as the frame/engine connection fastener for the battery ground cable, MUST ALL BE TIGHT & CLEAN. You can't always determine if those connections are clean & tight just by looking at them! You have to take them loose, inspect the cable end and the place it connects to, to eliminate corrosion as a problem. Always disconnect the battery negative cable before setting out to loosen/clean/tighten any connections of any of the big cables.