I'm thinking a mouse nest under the engine shrouding. Those meece just love to build their nests in there, and they even have an area to use as their toilet! If that has happened, the cooling air can not get down around and through the cooling fins on the cylinder and block, which then causes excessive heat build-up inside the engine, and that causes the engine to bind up, and cause more heat. Left go too long, and you'll be looking for an engine! Brfore buying a new magneto, or carburetor--check under the engine shrouds. Might get a surprise! I opened one up and found mother mouse in the last throes of child-birth! She and her kids didn't live long enough to become a problem!! "STOMP!" And, next fall, when you put it in storage, stuff a couple clothes dryer sheets in around the engine shrouds! Mice hate the smell, women love it!

Thank you for the advice. I tried touching both heavy terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver, got some sparks but no movement of the starter. I checked the voltage on the battery and it is still ~12V. I connected the battery charger to the battery and got the voltage up to near 15V then tried the touching the screwdriver to both heavy terminals again. Now the starter moves a little but in a way similar to my previous tests. Could it be a bad cell in the battery even if it is putting out 12Volts (or 15 with help from the charger)? I was talking to a co-worker today about the problem and he told me that most lawn tractor batteries don't last more than 4-5 years. The one in my tractor is original and a little over 7 years old. I remove the battery every season and store it in my basement. Before replacing the battery every season, I charge it up. Given all the information you gave me yesterday and learning that my battery has lasted a few years longer than is usual, I'm back to thinking it could be the battery. Before you told me that connecting a charger directly the starter doesn't necessarily provide enough juice to turn the starter, I'm back to thinking the battery could be bad. I'll buy a new battery tomorrow because it could be the problem. Even if it doesn't fix the problem, it sounds like it's time to get a new one anyway. Thank you, Scott

***"The half moon sector gear slip pass the teeth when you hear that rip sound. this caused the sector gear to not be center and you will have less or very little right or left steering wheel travel in the direction that the gear is short in."*** NO, the "rip" sound is when the PINION TEETH are "jumping over the teeth on the sector gear, not the other way around. Look at it this way. If you removed the sector gear from the tractor and left the steering wheel, steering column, and pinion gear in place......you would be able to sit there and spin the steering wheel in whichever direction you chose (CW or CCW), to the end of time (or til the economy turns around), without ever reaching a stopping point. It is the SECTOR GEAR that limits the number of revolutions you can turn the steering wheel from "lock to lock". What is happening with the "worn out" steering gears (and wear in the shaft bushing and wear in the sector gear pivot) where "you can turn more in a certain direction than the opposite direction" is because when you turn the steering in one direction.....the sector gear is PULLING on the drag link, and this increases the "separation space" or, "clearance between the pinion gear and the sector gear. With the extra clearance caused by turning in that direction, the pinion teeth will begin "jumping over" the teeth on the sector gear BEFORE the sector gear is able to rotate far enough for the front wheels to reach the limit of travel. BUT, when you turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction, the sector gear is PUSHING on the drag link. This has the effect of forcing the sector gear tighter against the pinion gear and thus, the pinion and sector gears remain in good mesh, and you can move the front wheels to the limit of travel when turing that direction ONLY. Trying to "center" or "index" the steering wheel does not help you make equally effective turns in either direction once the wear and slop reach the point of "jumping teeth". "Indexing" the steering wheel really only means that you have equal spacing of the spokes of the steering wheel on both sides of the clock (imagine the steering wheel is an analog clock face) when the front wheels are oriented "straight ahead". Indexing is not critical for operation of the steering system in executing turns. Indexing only becomes an issue where the position of a spoke might hide or conceal a dash gauge, indicator light or other important feature of the dash or instrument panel. If none of those details apply, it matters not the least where the steering wheel (and pinon gear are oriented). Driving a tractor typically involves so much turning of the steering wheel that you hardly roll more than a few feet before you need to turn the steering wheel one way or the other, so having the steering wheel properly indexed to the dash is not something that will keep the wheel positioned "in use", as you indexed it "while parked". Highway vehicles are almost the opposite (in regard to "centering the steering wheel") for a couple of reasons. First, the sector gears in the steering gearbox of those vehicles are made with "uneven size gear teeth". The teeth in the exact center of those sector gears, (or the center teeth of the "rack gear" in Rack & Pinion designs) are "slightly bigger" than the gear teeth on the rest of the sector gear (or rack gear in those types). The larger teeth in the center actually "bind mesh", or create an "interference fit" with the teeth of the pinion gear which reduces the clearance between pinion and sector (or rack) gears to ZERO. This "interference mesh" removes all slack or "free play" between the two gears and that means that you can "feel the road" with the steering wheel and the vehicle has a minimum amount of "hunting" caused by cumulative clearance in all the other components of the steering system. Why do they only make the center teeth "fit this tight" and not the entire sector (or rack) gear? Because, when you execute a "low speed turn" (like turning into a parking space etc.) it is desirable that the mesh be "looser" to make steering easier. Secondly, because of the greater "array" of instruments on the dash of highway vehicles, and the recent trend of having "steering wheel mounted functions or controls" (cruise control, entertainment sound systems, horn, to name just a few), it is "vital" that the steering wheel be indexed properly, so the steering wheel mounted features can be seen, and operated easily and accurately. The same constraints do not apply to your typical yard/garden tractor.

In the owner's manual for this tractor are several items that could be used to check out your transmission function (air purging procedure) and the fender control linkage adjustment. Suggest going thru them in detail. If still no luck, then time to call Sears repair or such. If you need it, a manual can be downloaded from sears parts. Just put in your model number and follow the web page instructions on the r/h side.