utp, click the link below to read a thread about an issue "similar" to yours. While your tractor might not have reached the point of "jumping teeth" on the sector gear (or you just haven't "felt" that), it sounds like it is well headed in that direction. Because you are new to the forum (or at least a "new member") you might not have read some of my "sermons" about remembering how something came apart. The first thing you must do before taking off any parts or components is to accept the fact that there may be several (or many) "sleep cycles" to pass between taking something apart and putting it back together again. Now, if you think you have an "infallible" memory.......you are already doomed and will certainly sit wringing your hands and scratching your head as you stare at the mixture of old and new parts in front of you, wondering which went first and which way did it "point". To keep yourself out of this predicament, get your digital camera out and shoot lots of pictures, from all angles, before and after you remove each component or part. Download the pictures into your computer and "save" them in a folder devoted to your "tractor projects" or something like that. Then, when you need to refer back to the disassembly process, you can look at the "saved" files. Also, having photos in your computer makes it easy to post images to the thread if you want to ask something specific here (or just share a magic moment). With the photos "on file", you can print out copies on cheap paper and carry them right to the "repair site". If you have a laptop, you can just carry the computer out there and position it where you can see it while you work. If you do the laptop thing, I suggest you cover the keypad and mouse pad with a sheet of "Saran Wrap" or other "cling film" before you get your hands dirty (especially if that laptop belongs to your spouse or "significant other"). Last thing, there are a "few" other threads in the archives concerning steering (or lack of steering) on various Craftsman tractors. You could spend a good deal of time looking for them (but, it might be time well spent). Also, don't get the idea that steering issues are the exclusive domain of Craftsman, all brands that use an "open steering gears" configuration (cheap & easy for the OEM) are subject to similar wear and problems.

Here is a link that might be useful: Similar issue?

I found part of the problem was the bolt that attached the steering shaft to the sleeve that slides over it to attach the steering wheel was not only loose, but the sleeve had worn pretty bad. I re-drilled out both parts and put in a snug fitting larger grade 8 bolt. That took up about half the play, now it looks like theres some play in the shaft that the main steering gear is attached to. Yeah, I know all about the digital camera, I restore old muscle cars for a hobby. The big problem with this tractor is the deck is hanging down on the left side a few inches more that the right, but I can't seem to find anything bent. I took the deck off for a better look, I'll start by taking some measurements off the underside one night this week, I also took some pics that I'll post to my Flickr account to try to get some feedback on that problem

The advice about taking pics, or making a sketch, is good advice! I have had that sort ofbrain whiz at times!

About the deck---. Lay down on the left, low side, and peer under there. See the long, flat bar which is hooked to the deck, at its back end with a clip. That bar is held up with an adjustable bolt, and maybe somebody has changed the height by changing the adjustment. This bolt should never be turned. There is an identical one on the right side. (Right, as sitting on the seat of the machine, not looking at it from the front!)
Also, one of the brackets on the deck may be bent, or broken loose, so check that, too.

This may not apply to this machine, but, if this deck is meant to be "fully floating" or "semi-floating", it could be "missing" a guage wheel or roller. Flickr is waiting for you. :^)

The slop in the steering is typical of late production AYP/Electrolux machines (which includes Sears/Craftsman). The steering gear uses several molded components, which begin to wear. As each wears, the looseness is cummulative. The only real, longterm fix is to buy the Steering Gear Kit 167902 from Sears ($83.92) or Partstore.com ($61.95).

OK, here are some pics of the droped deck, I'll start a new thread on this as well

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9834165@N07/sets/72157619016571509/

There are captions under the photos that explain everything

It almost looks like the front framework is bent (the area below the muffler)...

Oh wait - that piece seems to be connected to the deck (in the last photo of the deck on the floor)... Doesnt it ?
Interesting - the two frame rails (of the tractor) look level against the tires - hopefully that's a good sign.

Something looks bent and it looks like the deck took a hit - at first glance it doesnt look too serious/costly...

You may have gotten a sweet deal my friend...

Good luck - Dave

I agree a flumsy design, but IMO thats expected with cheap, affordable, poorly designed, low end equipment, or what ever you want to call it. From my experience once the steering gear has slipped a tooth or two you have to disassemble reindex the steering sector and probably shim it up on the end of shaft to remove the slop were the C clip goes. I replaced the parts on mine a couple of years ago and it was still sloppy. Shimming up the shaft to the sector gear to the steering shaft gear seem to help mine, but it you hit a tree or fence post with the front wheels it will still slip and you will have to reindex it all over again. Yes it is good advise to take pictures cause it is a PAIN IN THE @#$.

***"if you hit a tree or fence post with the front wheels it will still slip and you will have to reindex it all over again."***
What would we be "re-indexing" here rc? The only thing I can think of in regard to indexing would be if you were "picky" about the "clock position" of the steering wheel. Due to all the "full hydraulic power steering" (FHPS) systems in forklifts, and some other off road vehicles I am familiar with, I stopped worrying about that more than 15 years ago. With FHPS there is no "mechanical linkage" connecting the steering wheel & shaft to any of the steering components on the steering axle. There is only a Gerotor valve/pump assembly on the steering column shaft which controls oil flow to the steering cylinder. It is impossible to index the steering wheel & shaft on these units (because of "hydraulic drift" in the steering valve and in the steering cylinder. Because of that, I don't even worry about indexing the steering wheel except in cases where a spoke might conceal a gauge or other important detail of the instrument panel.

Now this is my opinion and experience with this. The half moon sector gear slip pass the teeth when you hear that rip sound. this caused the sector gear to not be center and you will have less or very little right or left steering wheel travel in the direction that the gear is short in. Once parts gets worn it don't take much of a bump to slip the sector gear a few cogs. This has happened a few times with my 19 year old LT4000. MY tractor has always turned to the left tighter than to the right I guess it's a design flaw even with the sector gear centered and getting full travel to the right.

***"The half moon sector gear slip pass the teeth when you hear that rip sound. this caused the sector gear to not be center and you will have less or very little right or left steering wheel travel in the direction that the gear is short in."***
NO, the "rip" sound is when the PINION TEETH are "jumping over the teeth on the sector gear, not the other way around. Look at it this way. If you removed the sector gear from the tractor and left the steering wheel, steering column, and pinion gear in place......you would be able to sit there and spin the steering wheel in whichever direction you chose (CW or CCW), to the end of time (or til the economy turns around), without ever reaching a stopping point. It is the SECTOR GEAR that limits the number of revolutions you can turn the steering wheel from "lock to lock". What is happening with the "worn out" steering gears (and wear in the shaft bushing and wear in the sector gear pivot) where "you can turn more in a certain direction than the opposite direction" is because when you turn the steering in one direction.....the sector gear is PULLING on the drag link, and this increases the "separation space" or, "clearance between the pinion gear and the sector gear. With the extra clearance caused by turning in that direction, the pinion teeth will begin "jumping over" the teeth on the sector gear BEFORE the sector gear is able to rotate far enough for the front wheels to reach the limit of travel. BUT, when you turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction, the sector gear is PUSHING on the drag link. This has the effect of forcing the sector gear tighter against the pinion gear and thus, the pinion and sector gears remain in good mesh, and you can move the front wheels to the limit of travel when turing that direction ONLY. Trying to "center" or "index" the steering wheel does not help you make equally effective turns in either direction once the wear and slop reach the point of "jumping teeth". "Indexing" the steering wheel really only means that you have equal spacing of the spokes of the steering wheel on both sides of the clock (imagine the steering wheel is an analog clock face) when the front wheels are oriented "straight ahead". Indexing is not critical for operation of the steering system in executing turns. Indexing only becomes an issue where the position of a spoke might hide or conceal a dash gauge, indicator light or other important feature of the dash or instrument panel. If none of those details apply, it matters not the least where the steering wheel (and pinon gear are oriented). Driving a tractor typically involves so much turning of the steering wheel that you hardly roll more than a few feet before you need to turn the steering wheel one way or the other, so having the steering wheel properly indexed to the dash is not something that will keep the wheel positioned "in use", as you indexed it "while parked". Highway vehicles are almost the opposite (in regard to "centering the steering wheel") for a couple of reasons. First, the sector gears in the steering gearbox of those vehicles are made with "uneven size gear teeth". The teeth in the exact center of those sector gears, (or the center teeth of the "rack gear" in Rack & Pinion designs) are "slightly bigger" than the gear teeth on the rest of the sector gear (or rack gear in those types). The larger teeth in the center actually "bind mesh", or create an "interference fit" with the teeth of the pinion gear which reduces the clearance between pinion and sector (or rack) gears to ZERO. This "interference mesh" removes all slack or "free play" between the two gears and that means that you can "feel the road" with the steering wheel and the vehicle has a minimum amount of "hunting" caused by cumulative clearance in all the other components of the steering system. Why do they only make the center teeth "fit this tight" and not the entire sector (or rack) gear? Because, when you execute a "low speed turn" (like turning into a parking space etc.) it is desirable that the mesh be "looser" to make steering easier. Secondly, because of the greater "array" of instruments on the dash of highway vehicles, and the recent trend of having "steering wheel mounted functions or controls" (cruise control, entertainment sound systems, horn, to name just a few), it is "vital" that the steering wheel be indexed properly, so the steering wheel mounted features can be seen, and operated easily and accurately. The same constraints do not apply to your typical yard/garden tractor.

Mowie, all I know is that I had to reindex the half moon gear to the shaft that goes all the way through the bracket cause it wasn't centered with the steering wheel with gear (less teeth when turned to the right verses too many when turned to the left, Nothing else would get it to turn to the right tighter. beings the arm that connects to the steering link I all had to be disassembled and resplined on the arm shaft. It was a real pain in the you know what. Thanks for your explaination.

I had an issue with the screw that attaches the pinion gear to the shaft backing off when my mower was new. That allowed extra play in the steering wheel. The screw is #22 in the exploded parts diagram on the Sears parts website. A couple of hours of disassembly to reach the screw and a drop of blue loctite has held it in place for 10 or so years.