Well used a snapper rear engine rider may be found in your price range. The lowest price Rider or Lawn Tractor new I could find was a sears Craftsman for just under $900.00. You may also be able to find a Used Toro Rear engine rider in your price range. You may also want to consider a John Deere JS25 self propelled Push Mower which is similar to a Toro personal pace self propelled Mower. Hope this helps

Here is a link that might be useful: Sears

Picked up an old murray 36" 11hp about 8 years ago for $200. Used it 5 years and put about $150 into it. Sold it for $150. My current tractor, an 18.5 hp 46" MTD 1995 model cost me nothing and looks and runs like new. Look around. There are good deals out there.

2 years ago I picked up a scotts 2046 (20hp/46"deck) for $250. It needed a new battery and solenoid to get it going - but I was able to see it run at the guys house (so i bought it - knowing it ran).

I also picked up a small Sears Ride-n-Mulch which never says die. It has a 30" deck and is always there for me (a small but durable machine). I use it for moving stone and pulling yard carts and trailers around the property.

I mowed my dads large lawn for many years with a pusher... If I knew then what i know now - I would have bought him a small (used) rider.

I would recommend you going the (used) rider_route... Its worth the extra few dollars - it makes the chore so much easier. I can come home from work exhausted and getting on the rider is just plain relaxing instead of exhausting (especially with a beer).

The only recommendation I would make to you is try and keep your unit in a shed or under a car port. So make sure you buy something that "fits" into your scenario. My scotts 46 inch deck is too big for me to get it into the shed - and I still have not gotten around to building a roof for it.

Good luck - Dave.

I have no issue with the rear engine design. It actually seems easier to see and distribute weight.

What used brands are good? From this forum what I fear from snapper is the possibility of scalping since the deck has no guide wheels. Is that a huge deal? Also, is the turning radius of the snapper that much worse than a similar design Deere or Harmony? Can that be fixed if it becomes a problem?

What others should I look for?

Some samples of what I can find locally...
http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1126320480.html
http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1125452843.html
http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1119252594.html
http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1118174658.html
http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1118070457.html

Thanks
-Brian

Good point - the Scotts I have is a front engine machine ... to work on it it is best to remove the hood - which is *very* easy to do... No bolts,etc just raise the hood, slide to the left and pull it off... Nice and quiet too...

The Sears I have is a rear engine design and for me to work on it I need to remove the side shrouds (2 bolts each side). Not a big deal - I keep those bolts hand tight.

On a different note - The rear engine Sears is a little bit loud, with that metal shrouding around it - it almost seems to direct the noise at me ... I wish it were a little quieter - and have actually tried to tone it down a bit - which did not work out well ... Dont get me wrong - its not terribly loud, but do I wish it were a little quieter.

As far as turning radius goes - I think you need to think about how tight your mower needs to turn.

"Can that be fixed if it becomes a problem? Sure - if your willing to buy a different machine... Modifying a lawn tractor to make it have a tighter turn radius is really *not* something you want to consider doing (and in some/many cases not possible). If you think you need a tight radius - then make it a priority feature while you are doing your shopping.

As far as scalping goes - my Scotts deck has nice large wheels on it - but due to my uneven property I frequently find myself scalping the lawn in certain areas.. You should recognize the larger the deck the greater the chances are of scalping (particularly on an uneven lawn). With regards to scalping a smaller deck will generally be more "scalp friendly".

Good luck - Dave

Or
http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1129814366.html
But now I am scared of RER after reading about snappers turning radius and hill performance. My front yard has a relatively steep hill. Are all RERs bad for those situations and turning radius, or was the Snapper design particularly bad at that?

Thanks
-Brian

Only if you didn't adhere to the cautions as laid out in the manual, which nobody reads!
The manual is a set of instructions, that spell out the foibles of the machine, but most manuals get installed in some closet, or waste-basket, and there they lay, until they are tossed out by yer wife in spring house-cleaning!

Here's a Deere RER that meets your criteria.

Here is a link that might be useful: rx75

...but if I were you, I'd dig a little deeper in the pockets and check out this $700 beauty, also right down the street.

Here is a link that might be useful: Original owner heirloom 110

Interesting thought on the 110. Is a 1968 model going to be as useable and serviceable as something a little newer? just to be clear, I am not being snobby - I love classic things, and am currently undergoing a restoratiion on a 1972 GMC pickup.

At any rate, what about the rx75 is different from the S92 listed here
http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1129814366.html
?

I have no idea if they are the same or not, or how hard a governor replacement is.

Any ideas?

Thanks
-Brian

Here is the response about the S92. I am a little confused on what exactly needs to be replaced.
The engine idles perfect but can't be idled up. If you do, it goes from idling to full throttle. Its not a part issue. The engine has to be taken apart to get to the governor on this model. Everything else about the mower is excellent considering the year. If you saw it you would guess it was not older than 5 years old. This was bought new by my stepdad. I thought it was a major issue and got another mower from someone else. If I had known it was this minor before that it wouldn't be for sale.

I would look for a used wheelhorse or simplicity if I were you. Make sure its in fully functioning condition, and not blowing any smoke. Be sure to test drive it before buying.

More suggestions after reading some stuff on the rx75 and the s92.

http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1134268048.html

http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1134265643.html

http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1133832170.html

http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1133133117.html

I am partial to the cub cadet, although I know their quality has slipped recently. How do I tell if this one is any good or not? How about the newish JD?

So, is 1995 too new for a Cub Cadet? The link says 2140 series for $350. Is it a generic rider with rotten design by that point?

The Cub Cadet 2140 is a 2000 series tractor which had a Garden tractor strenth but with a LT size deck and smaller Rear tires today became the 2500 series GT's The Cub Cadet 2500 and 3000 series tractors are not rotten designed at all. International Harvester sold Cub Cadet to MTD in 1981. The 2000 series are the First truly designed with out any I.H. influnce. Up until 1997 The GT's made by cub Cadet were made and Frames that were similar to the IH cub Cadet wide frame series.

http://greenville.craigslist.org/grd/1102199229.html

?

I had a 1986 JD R70 in the past which was the only BAD JD product I have even owned The gear sprocket kepted on falling out of the frame Bad design. Other than that is was a good machine I even used it for snow plowing. They made a snow blade for them at the time. as long as the JD is belt driven over chain I would not worry about it. The Rx 73 should be ok. But if you ever have to change a belt on the RX73 because it a 2belt system varator it's a Pain to readjust them even the dealers don't want to mess with them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Your link for the RX73

Can you explain the belt system? I am not sure what's going on there. Do you know where I might find a diagram?

Thanks
-Brian

Enter you model number RX73 in the box in the link select
Alphabetical Index and you will be able to see a picture of how the belts are routed.

Here is a link that might be useful: JD parts