The 10x12 HFGH is not a very sturdy structure if you leave it like it comes to you. Some people prefer to pay a huge price and have all the designing already done for them. For a lot of people the HFGH would not be the right choice. If you are one who can figure out things or look at what others have done and follow some simple instructions then you can have a quality GH for a lot less money. people who pay $3000.00 or more think that they have a superior GH but after the modifications the HFGH is probably better than most of the expensive ones. This past spring we had a storm that blew over big trees and my daughter had a big overstuffed wicker chair on her front porch, the wind blew it over a waist high railing and it went about 50 feet through the air and hit their car. It did $2500.00 damage to the car. My cheap old HFGH had NO damage to it Put the Conner braces on it install the braces on the base it is all outlined in previous posts People can turn their nose up at my HFGH if they want but it will grow my flowers just as good as their overpriced GH will Whether you should buy one or pay the high price all depends on your ability to build things, but don't think that just because you paid a high price that it will be easy to assemble because all kits are a PITA !! I have never bought any thing in kit form regardless of price that I did not wind up modifying it in some way I'm sure that if I bought one of those high dollar greenhouse's I would make some modifications to it.

Would have been more considerate for you to start a new thread rather than pollute someone else's thread when your post has nothing to do with the thread's content. Regarding your water problems... There are a variety of less effective ways to attempt to treat water which you seem to have discovered but it really is as easy as 1-2-3 1. Certified lab test to determine what needs to be treated. 2. Have a water treatment professional evaluate the environment and decide on the most inclusive and comprehensive treatment and hardware required. 3. Have a water treatment professional install and configure the equipment for correct and efficient operation.

Terminox has gotten good results. Like any of the iron-removal methods I listed, it will depend on water conditions. When dealing with well waters, dissolved oxygen will be a concern with any system. You will want to know how much dissolved oxygen your water has in order to determine the best system for your water. This requires a special procedure for sampling that you will need to discuss with the lab that will be doing the test. TAC variants: They will all be expensive to maintain - the media is not cheap. Softeners: If you decide to purchase a softener, a 0.75 cubic ft softener will work nicely for your situation. If you install a separate iron removal system upstream, the softener will only need to regen every couple of weeks. If you choose to use only the softener, it will regen every 4 days. As to specific systems, this is where your research takes place. I can tell you what to specify, and help to evaluate quotes once you have them, but ultimately you are the one that has to have a comfort level with the vendor you choose. I suggest starting with the local water treatment pros to see what they can offer. The benefit of this approach is having someone to turn to if something goes wrong. You pay for that benefit, of course, but for most people it is the way to go. If you decide to order online, you will be provided only what you specify and any and all problems are yours to diagnose and fix. Provided you are comfortable with that, it can be a good option. Be aware that though you will spend less money, you will spend more time. The following requirements are for an industry standard softener. If you are looking for a non-electronic softener, Kinetico offers the more reliable options at a premium price (and you would need to deal with a local Kinetico rep). Any decent softener vendor should be able to provide the following: High quality American or German made resin. This will provide a tight size distribution for optimal flow within the resin Since you have WELL WATER: 8% crosslinked resin. Top basket. This serves two purposes. It sets up a proper water distribution during normal operation and prevents resin loss during backwash. Gravel underbed. The gravel underbed is there to set up proper flow patterns, improve backwash, keep the bottom basket in place and prevent basket failure, and prevent channeling. Many softener sales companies like to leave this out or sell softeners with a vortex system instead. Vortex systems weigh less than gravel so they cost less to ship. In addition, they are a more expensive item that adds profit for the softener salesperson, but provides no additional benefit to the homeowner . It simply adds another piece of equipment that can break. Fleck or Clack valves. These set the industry standard. Be aware that you will not be able to purchase Clack valves online. This is not a problem if you purchase locally. The valve should regen based on...

Last update? I'm having to take on additional responsibilities at work in this fiscal year and will have less time for posts. ("up or out" LOL) Happened to be over there yesterday, and although mostly losing my sweet tooth, decided I could not resist some ice cream at the Creamery. The Emmenopterys is dead. The Osmanthus X fortunei, though, was full of fragrant flowers and in great shape. I don't know why they are bothering with this Trachy...another polar vortex winter will take it out. Especially because they didn't give one of the most sheltered spots. The moment I saw this, I thought, "omg, is that what I think it is?" And, it is. I would never steal anything...and I certainly wouldn't be updating this thread if I were planning to do so! But this is the rarest plant in this garden...rarer than the Emmenopterys in my opinion, and I'm a little surprised they didn't plant it in a more hidden spot for it to size up. Ladies and gentlemen, the elusive Torreya jackii.Looks grown from seed to me...thinking the needles will get longer. Debated about featuring but already established that there are rare plants in this garden last year, and in other threads over the years. I think plant collectors are mostly an honest lot? Hope so...if it does well in this garden, cutting material will be available in a few years. The wet summer has allowed their Camellia yuhsienensis to size up and finally look really happy. This plant has been struggling for years but more from neglect I think. It is very hardy and was in full bloom only a couple weeks after the polar vortex freezes ended...way before even 'Korean Fire'. I want one eventually, but am happy enough to have a hybrid of it, 'Dream Angel', that has similarly tough ability to bloom in a real mid-atlantic winter. This is the base of their Quercus virginiana...and sorry to say, looks like 2013-2015 and January 2018 have finished this guy off. Top looks very sparse. I guess they are giving it one more year in case a miracle happens LOL. (spoiler alert...they don't) I've decided I like the look of the variegated Illicium - kinda like a poor man's version of the variegated Daphniphyllum, which is very difficult to graft and may just be too weak to survive in most of the mid-Atlantic. Didn't wade in for a closer pic because I bet this place is teaming with Ixodes. I wonder why this Magnolia macrophylla looks sickly. Chlorosis? They have several but this one is the worst looking. Saw them back in the summer...had never actually been around that species in bloom. The floral odor is indeed disagreeable. Not a good picture but a nice combination of 2 Cephalotaxus and Thujopsis. Finally, nice to see Acer griseum but too bad they let the trunk do this.