questions re: Yoshino cherry
plympton_ma
16 years ago
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Embothrium
16 years agoplympton_ma
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Yoshino Cherry Tree tips
Comments (7)The poster has a Yoshino Cherry in a 24 inch pot. No place to plant it, wants to have it as potted plant. Needs advice. The tree you mention is more likely several years old. At 7 feet, probably more than 3. Take the tree out of your house immediately. If it is leafed out, move it in only when frost threatens. (In NC, I hope you are done w/frost.) In the fall, allow it to freeze so that the leaves fall off, otherwise it will not bloom. You cannot keep the tree indoors for extended periods, summer or winter. In the summer, the indoor light is not strong enough, and when it goes out all the leaves will fry. In the winter, it will not go dormant and likely die after one such treatment. BTW, a potted tree outdoors does better in shade than in full sun. Two feet is a decent sized pot, but this tree will out grow that in a year or 2. You can do root and branch pruning to keep it a 7 ft. "bonsai", but that will require wrestling the tree out of its pot, knowing how much to cut, and repotting. All the while, judicious watering will be required. Did you sign up for that? These trees are sold with the idea that they will be planted out. Ideally, you could plant it alongside your patio area, maybe 20 ft or more away from any building. Lacking that, you have bought a pet tree that will need more care than an Angora cat. Maybe somebody will chime in with an easier process. Do you have a friend, relative or somebody who has room for the tree who would allow you to visit when it blooms and to lounge in its shade?...See MoreYoshino cherry tree
Comments (2)Possibly prunus shot hole. If the brown spots fall out and leaf a hole, that would be the prime suspect....See MoreRemove a Yoshino Cherry?
Comments (2)I would take it down. I very much doubt you can grind out the stump, what with utility lines so close to the roots. My advice to your DH is that it WILL need to come down sometime - the girdling roots, not to mention the too-close proximity to the power lines - so it may as well come down on your terms, where you can limit the amount of damage. If, or rather when, it comes down on its own, it may take down the power lines with it, if not falling on a car and/or blocking your garage access. When you do take it down, I strongly suggest that you paint the edges of the stump with Round-Up, or, better, Brush-B-Gon or a similar woody-plant herbicide, to limit the amount of sprouts coming up from the roots. Both the Smoke tree and the Beautybush tend to be as wide or wider than tall. There doesn't look to be a lot of space between the driveway and the fence - I can understand why the previous owners planted the cherry where they did, but it's certainly the wrong tree for the space - so I would go for the lilac, of your choices. If you could find a single-trunked Smoketree, or limb up a shrubby one, it might do as well or better. How about a single-trunked serviceberry? You might be best with a largish shrub, which you can limb up into a small tree, since you need something that stays short as well as narrow. It's a hard call for what to suggest, due to the parameters given. There really isn't a lot of room there, is there?...See MoreYoshino cherry tree dying?
Comments (7)All plants go through a period of dormancy, some - like the cherries - more completely than others. Since evergreens hold their foliage all year, it is difficult to visually "see" this process, but they do experience a period of very slow or no growth as well. It is a rest period, somewhat akin to our sleeping or the hibernation period that some animals experience. With deciduous trees like the cherries, the onset of dormancy typically coincides with the change of the seasons from summer to fall - shortened day length and colder temperatures, together with the plant's specific genetics, trigger the process. Leaves change color, sometimes whither and dry and then fall off. When this happens naturally, the lack of any foliage left on the tree generally indicates the plant has entered the dormant period but full dormancy, including the cessation of root growth, often takes longer. Early November is a bit soon in most parts of the country for any deciduous tree to be in full dormancy and your trees, still being in leaf, are not quite there yet. The digging, bare rooting and shipping process is likely playing a role in their appearance as well. And while the top growth looks dead or dying, it is very likely the roots are still in growth mode. If you planted the trees correctly and promptly and have provided sufficient water (and continue to do so during any very dry periods this winter), they should be fine come spring. I am a bit curious as to why you felt the need to do mail order from across the country to obtain these trees. Unless located in very remote areas, west coast gardeners are blessed with an enormous selection of retail nurseries and garden centers, virtually all of which operate a full 12 months of the year in our very mild climates. California is a major supplier of nursery stock to much of the country and you should be able to find pretty much anything you want year round. While late fall is not a prime time for the best tree selection (most receive their fresh stock in late winter and early spring and sell down throughout the growing season), these not uncommon trees should be readily available locally and without the costs and shock associated with shipping cross country....See MoreEmbothrium
16 years agoquirkyquercus
16 years agoEmbothrium
16 years agoquirkyquercus
16 years agoplympton_ma
16 years agoIris GW
16 years agoPamchesbay
16 years agoalabamatreehugger 8b SW Alabama
16 years agoDibbit
16 years agoEmbothrium
16 years agodulci0728
15 years agomz_mi05
8 years agoparker25mv
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoLogan L. Johnson
8 years agomz_mi05
8 years agomz_mi05
8 years ago
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