Before doing any of that, why do you think new top soil will be better than the soil you have now? Where do you live in CA? If you live in SoCal, be pretty specific. My general thought is that fixing your current soil is much better than bringing in the unknowns of new topsoil. The simple secret cure for bad soil is to use organic fertilizer. Beyond any chemistry shortcomings (curable with a soil test), most soils have had their organic content depleted with years upon years of chemical fertilizers without ever once applying organic fertilizer. The microbes (beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa, microarthropods, and other tiny critters) which cause healthy soil must be fed with real food at least occasionally to keep your soil fresh and healthy. Organic fertilizer is that food. If you look at the ingredients of the good organic fertilizers you will see that they mimic the ingredients in dry dog and cat food. It is real food. You can simplify your life and save a lot of money by buying the raw materials and applying that directly to your soil. Buy according to what ingredients are inexpensive this year. Back in the early 2000s, corn was cheap at $3 per bag. Nowadays the best deal is alfalfa pellets (rabbit food) at around $12 per bag. The application rate is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Use it once at that rate and in 3 weeks you can reapply at any rate up to 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet. With organics the more you use the better it works; however, if you dump a lot down on depleted soil, the organics will tend to stink as it decomposes. Work your way up to heavier doses. Also with organics you can apply any day of the year without fear of burning or overstressing the grass. So, where do you live?

This is my first post ~ well anywhere, actually. So forgive me if I'm in the wrong place. There seemed such wisdom here and I didn't think I should start a new topic just for my issue. But feel free to tell me ~ where to go ~ as necessary ;) I've searched the net, thinking the exact conversion must be out there, but alas, not... I'm starting new raised cedar plank organic beds for vegetables (5 -4x4, 12" deep and have 50+ bags of the following: Butterfield Farms Organic Planting Soil "Specially Formulated Blend for Growing All In-Ground Vegetables, Herbs and Flowers. The bag says it contains "a blend of 100% organic ingredients composted manure, composted wood fiber, sphagnum and sedge peat, plus coarse silica sand and Dolomitic limestone. Excellent for blending with native soils to add all important organic matter nutrient holding capacity and soil tilth. I've emailed the source to get more specifics of this composition and their recommendations for add in's but have not heard back yet. Yes, I'm pretty committed to doing these as raised beds. The in ground one I did in the past was a nightmare to maintain due to nearby weed fields, and the new area has the outer root system of nearby pines. Also for weed control and ease. (Sorry if that's tmi, been reading around this site and defending the raised bed system seems part of the forum process, lol?) Anyway, the bottom will be open, though, and the area de-foliaged (grass pulled up) at least 20" around the perimeter of beds with a weed-blocked, mulched path. Even considering deep edge boarders at that 20" perimeter in addition? So, kind, wise folks (Honestly see you like that ~ forgive if too corny) >> my actual question is IF each bag of "In-Ground Organic Planting Soil" is 1 cubic foot and each bed demands 16 cubic feet, what are your recommendations for me to add to this "in ground" mix, and what ratios, to make it "raised bed" friendly? My big fear that something's in here that shouldn't be (though I can't think what) so I can't just add stuff, and I've flubbed this already :(? It is essential to me that it be kept as organic as possible. My plants are such, and hope the mix in's are such? Please know your time is appreciated. I'm sure you all would much rather be outside this time of year, or resting/researching to do so THANKS! ~ Rose

I have seen everything from aluminum sulfate to battery (Sulfuric) acid used to correct high pH. For the reason mentioned above-potential phytotoxicity-I've never been keen on the alum. sulfate, esp. when elemental sulfur in pelletized form is so readily available. The key aspect of doing this is to realize that your efforts will eventually be overcome by the buffering capacity of the soil itself. It will tend to return to its' old pH ways over time. If one is trying to treat large acreage, this then becomes problematic. But for a few trees in a yard, it will be a simple matter to reapply the sulfur in a few years. +oM

I'd skip sand (as we typically think of sand) and wouldn't even consider garden soil/top soil for a potted plant because the nature of the soil's drainage characteristics change dramatically between garden and pot. A garden soil that might accurately be said to have excellent drainage/aeration in the garden is very, very likely to compact severely (which significantly reduces air porosity) and retain water excessively when moved from garden to container. Even if we consider using garden soil or topsoil as a minor fraction of a container medium, there are much better alternatives. Al