I feel the best would be hard to define or defend. I use the heaviest line and pre-cut it to give me a fixed dual line (with 2 knots inside the spool to hold it until itâÂÂs too short). I followed the suggestion of a Small Engine Dealer, Sales and RepairmanâÂÂs Advice (in about 2000). His info was based on facts on the Professional Yard Crews clients. He said Most Preferred the Mid Range Echo SRM-225 I believe at that time. He said that his were in the 220.00 range. Or! I could save a few dollars at Home Depot, Etc Big Box Store, with the same trimmer and two Year Warr then. I did and it starts today as easy as the guarantee then (2 pulls I think). Being honest it d/n solve my problem of breaking the string 8-10 times per my full small yard. The string problem was me personally IMO vs the trimmer. I like the straight shaft reach vs bending my back. I still use it in tight areas and guessed 3 hrs per yr but I feel itâÂÂs more like 6 hrs per yr (72 vs 36 hrs over 10 years at least trouble free and no replacements maintenance vs checking). My primary trimmer has a straight shaft, hard blade and wheel att. Due to all the concrete I have. Tilted at about a 45 degree, I bevel the grass to the dirt at the concrete and trim about every 3rd cutting. It is a modified Green Machine with a longer straight shaft to save bending my back.

I do not know about the other guys (besides SSEWALK1 who by the way is a crack small engine mechanic in his own right) but I am still here and still playing with small engines. Typically, since I do NOT have enough brains, a very common problem with the little 2 strokes is hardening of the fuel pump diaphragm or metering diaphragm inside the carburetor. A gasket and diaphragm kit can usually fix that fuel starvation problem; fuel enters the carb but does NOT make it to the combustion chamber. The required parts are Also available in a carb rebuild kit. Other malfunctions can develop as well. Again, the comments above cover just about ALL of them. Also, the fine, filter screen in the carb body gets clogged and the carb starves for fuel. HI EWALK if you are still with us!

I have an Echo GT2000 with the tap and go head and have no complaints. I use Echo's Rapidfire line and find it works the best of any I have tried. Some things to consider. A lot of the inexpensive curve shaft trimmer heads run very hot due to the poor lower end bushing. The heat is transmitted to the head and results in line 'welding'.The surface actually melts. Cheap aftermarket line is particularly bad. The line needs to be wound properly. Both lines are wound in the same direction. Pinch both between thumb and forefinger and rotate the spool with the other hand pulling the line to prevent twisting, don't wrap the line on the spool. The machine will work best at full throttle. The line is rigid and will cut most effectively. A lot of clutches have failed due to heat from slipping because the machine was run at part throttle.The clutch works on centrifugal force, the faster it turns the more force it exerts on the drum.

I think you are right the spring needs wound up more. Can one end of the spring retainer slip pass causing it to loose it's tension??? I would think two or three more winds would do it. I usually can pull the rope out all the way, clamp the winder, remove the rope, release the winder while holding it with my hands. Then, I just wind it up some more, clamp the winder down, install the rope and tie the knot and release it. This would also and easy way to replace a frayed or stiff rope also. I had a craftman 25cc trimmer that the end of the spring would slip pass the molded plastic hump. I staked it with a drill bit that I cut off and made a window to make sure it was hooked beings it was a blind installation down in molded bowl shaped housing.