Hole in oak tree that collects water and rots
asonnenshine
15 years ago
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brandon7 TN_zone7
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Willow Oak any better than Water Oak?
Comments (10)I get water and laurel oak confused, too, Alabama, but willow oak is different. A lot of them grow in the neighborhood where my daughter used to live in Memphis, planted all along the streets there. They have very small leaves, much smaller than laurel or water oak leaves, and they have a real thick, tough looking trunk. They don't grow naturally down here, and I've never planted one, so I can't give you any advice. Remember that bur oak acorn from the Montgomery area that you sent me a couple of years ago? It grew to about 5 1/2' tall last year, so this year it should outgrow the cage I put around it (chicken wire type material attached to 1"X1" poles) to keep the deer from browsing on it. It makes HUGE leaves, it's very tough looking, and I'm enjoying watching it grow. Thanks again for the acorn! Sherry in Wiggins, MS...See MorePreventing wood rot in trees--Liquid copper fungicide
Comments (30)Whaas: Yes, pines and spruces can exude sap, but that sap is not enough to cover large wounds, and even if it were, it would not prevent rot. Pine sap can for a time can create a barrier that can delay fungal infections, but it is not itself a fungicide. In fact, I have had a lot of experience with large wounds to both pines and Norway spruce trees--the fungal rots enter these trees faster than in most, and the rot spreads very, very fast. Before I hit on the liquid copper fungicide, I experimented with Captan, and with Bordeaux mixture. With both I saw fungal fruiting bodies within two years--maybe just 1.5 years. But, if one prunes off smaller side branches from pines and spruces, there is virtually no risk of fungal rot entering those kinds of cuts. With red pines especially, the cut surface is impregnated with pitch, and is very, very rot resistant. But this is not the kind of situation I am recommending this fungicide treatment for. The cuts I made on about a dozen white pines, for example, were to remove 1/2 of a forked tree, and the cuts were generally about 8" by 12". My forester who saw what I had done said that I was wasting my time trying to save such trees. Hah! He should see them now. White pines with a tight "V" shaped fork will eventually split in storms about 90% of the time, hence my acting to save them. Every one of the trees I cut this way about 27 years ago is now a beautiful, straight white pine tree, 100 feet tall, and as healthy as any tree can be. I have also had a few white pine and spruce trees clawed by bears, leaving large areas with the bark removed. I have treated these trees also, and no rot has appeared in these either. With the spruce, sap did cover a part of the damaged areas. With the white pine, sap actually covered very little. But, even had the sap covered these areas, there would have been a delay of just three, or maybe up to 5 years--not nearly enough time for the callus to cover the wounds. --Spruce...See Moreholes in my oak tree leaves
Comments (23)A word on Japanese Beetles from someone that has had them for years. I can only speak for the events that have occurred in our yard, and make no predictions of the future. When we moved into our house the very next summer OMG at the Japanese beetles. They seemed to eat most everything, even plants they supposedly left alone after they began to run out of food. I was thinking at the time, "HOLY &^%&!!! Hope it doesn't stay like this!". Ive never seen so many of one type of insect in my life. MASSES stripping plants bare. We gave in and used Sevin in as targeted way possible, and we also applied LOTS of Milky Spore. We knew the MS would have little overall dent, but wanted to at least introduce the organism to the area. Next year, JB are back, but in slightly fewer numbers. Have to pull out the Sevin again, using as little as possible, and as targeted as possible. Next year they are back again, but fewer in numbers again. Repeat for two more years that brings us to today. They are again present this year (and EARLY) but seemed to have mostly run their course. Here's the thing, there was a tiny fraction of the original number. Mostly minor damage to the favorite plants, while several of our plants that originally were attacked, have not needed any treatment for 2-3 years. My significant other treated her roses, but that was by far the most damage. So what happened? Probable several things. The weather the last three years have not helped them. Extreme wet and cold, and extreme dry and hot. This no doubt has taken a toll on their numbers. BUT, their numbers were decreasing before that as well. That is likely because our local wildlife (insect, avian, etc.) learned to utilize them as prey. I even read a few weeks ago about at soil fungus found around the world that has just been shown to prey on insect larvae/pupae and feeding then acquired nitrogen from the insects to the plants they were symbiotic with. The researchers demonstrate that 25% of the nitrogen in the plants originated in the grubs. I bring this up, because you can bet there are variants in the population of this fungus that can attack JB, and they will reproduce on a rich diet of JB grubs. The point of of this is to demonstrate that in many cases, and invader such as JB are at their worst at the start, and then the local flora and fauna have some ability to adjust to them. IN the case of JB, this seems to be true as long as the ecosystem is in reasonable good condition. I'm sure my MS application had little effect, but wholesale application of pesticides probable does far more damage than good. We did use Sevin (carbryl), but I choose it for a number of reasons. It is effective, it does not persist in healthy soil, low toxicity to mammals and birds,and has been around for 50 years and EXTENSIVELY studied. Many of the newer pesticides, and soil treatment pesticides take a year or more for 50% of it to break down. DON"T use any more than you have to, and try to spry only the JB, or in the case of newly planted trees, only the newly planted trees. USE SPARINGLY. Then let nature reduce the problem over time. Lastly, I did some reading on JB, and in areas where they have long been present, they typical are a relatively minor problem. They were originally discover in New Jersey in the early 1920's if I remember correctly. Lets hope the Emerald Ash Borer ultimately goes the same way. Arktrees...See MoreAdditional Oak for a Wetland Oak Collection
Comments (19)ath, Knowhatyoumean - growing up in UCLA(upper corner of lower Alabama), water oak was everywhere, and not especially appealing to me in very many ways. But, I'd hazard a guess that Q.nigra would likely be pretty uncommon in brandon's locale, and thus *might* be an interesting addition. Or not. I never see it here, though my understanding is that it is present in the area (I have a graft of the 'Firewater' coccineaXnigra, which was a chance seedling Guy S. grew from acorns collected from the KY champion Q.nigra, located less than an hour west from me)....See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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