If the plant is wilted, it needs water. If the foliage is yellowing, too much water. Sometimes that's a good way to tell. I think you may have overwatered. And I dont believe they are totally dead in 2 days. Peat holds lots of water, you probably dont need that for most annuals. If you water less, in time you should get fresh green growth from the roots. Roughing up the roots helps new plants roots spread deep into the soil. Good luck, Jen

I'm assuming you're asking about the Costus Barbatus(spiral ginger). I have grown this plant for 15 years and when they begin to look like yours, it usually a combination of not enough water and too much sun/heat. Mine begin to look like this in late July when the temperatures get in the middle to upper 90's. How many hours of sun are they receiving? That costus does a lot better with some protection from direct noon sun. Steve

"As for the plants themselves, do you think they will bounce back or is it a lost cause?" Can only speculate and that is based on just the photo but IMO the plant is well past a good recovery. That is not to say they can't improve somewhat and even manage some limited production. But no, it won't ever be nearly what it could have been in either health or production. It simply has too much damage already, too many strikes against it. Depending on where you live and the length of your growing season I'd give serious consideration to just replacing them. "When I apply the granular JOBES, I watered it in from the top." Yes but it was such a small amount (sprinkling 1/2 handfull) as to make little to no difference. And honestly, when compared to other similar organic products, the make-up of that particular fertilizer is not held in very high regard by most. You' do better to use it on your lawn or a flower bed if you don't want to waste it. ____________ "if you use a potting mix with mostly peat, i would agree. the soil in my potting mixes have some peat, but also a lot of compost and some soil/hummus from broken down leaves, etc. i prefer this type of potting soil for this reason.. there are worms and lots of soil dwelling critters in my potting soil, but my pots are huge (most over 20 inches)" stevie - Glad that works for you but that approach voids several well researched recommendations for container gardening and can create a whole other set of problems. I'm sorry stevie but 20" pots are not considered "huge" by most and the soil food web that works on dry organic fertilizers can't be seen as they are microbes. All you are getting is worm and bug poop. gardengal is right that the components of dry organic fertilizers are not water soluble and simply cannot feed containerized plants. Jobe's as well as most other drys contain bone meal, feather meal, sulfate of potash, dried kelp, rock phosphate, and soy meal. Try dissolving any of them in water As a life long organic gardener my biggest pet peeve is their false advertising that defies all the research and mis-leads so many new gardeners. Great for in ground gardens but that is where they belong, not in a container. Just as repeatedly stated above and in numerous discussions of this issue, containers require pre-digested or emulsified organic supplements. Dave

Love the general idea of the room, but am another one who doesn't care for the ceiling, especially with the chandelier, which I think needs a much less busy backdrop. And I think the toile on the ceiling shortens the room. I'd like to see a white ceiling, toile curtain panels, and tortoise-shell matchstick blinds. The lamps -- both bases and blinds -- would be the perfect opportunity to introduce another color. I'm not crazy about dark lamps on top of dark night tables. UPDATED to add: I'd like to see some more chartreuse green in that room, like the bedside flowers.