Was the tank run dry or treated with a stabilizer over the
winter? Did you begin with a tank full of fresh from the pump
gasoline? I think your carburetor is gummed up.

The engine was not run dry, but I did store it with a small amount of gas treated with Stabile over the winter. The gas is fresh as it ran for a good 20-30 minutes initially.

I assume simply spraying the carb cleaner while the engine runs will not do the trick. Do you recommend carb kits...or is there a better way to clean?
Thanks

The engine may be equipped with an afterfire solenoid located on the bottom of the carburetor. This device opens when the ignition key is turned on and permits fuel flow through the carburetor. The device is spring loaded closed when the key is turned off.

If your engine is equipped with this, check the wire connection on the bottom of the solenoid. Without starting the engine, turn the key on and off - listen for a clicking noise at the solenoid.

From you previous thread on this engine, you still didn't say if you have the CORRECT fuel filter-
Just because you got it from a JD dealer is no guarantee! Not all of them are infallible.
25-050-21-S!!!!!!!!!!

Bill, I did not check part number on the fuel filter, but will look tonite. The engine exerienced the same symptoms with the old and new filter. Again, there is fuel flowing out of the filter, into the carb.

My 'assumption' was it was the right filter since it came with the STX46 mainentance package. But I will check the part numnber nonetheless.

Thanks.

Whoops- wrong #'s
25-050-13-S (2.1" long)
or
25 050 07-S (1" long)

For some reason the "13" in the first number pasted as 21 when I copied it from the manual?????

I'm guessing you might have gotten the filter for the engine with the fuel pump instead of the gravity feed one. Very different micron ratings! 75 vs 51.

There may also be a fuel strainer in the tank that could be clogged.

I guess you saw the arrow on the fuel filter showing which
way to install it.

I never had to rebuild a mower engine carburetor, but I've had
great success rebuilding them for cars using kits. You need a clean well-lighted table with good ventilation. The parts are tiny and may pop out unexpectedly so don't do it on your lawn or gravel driveway. A small pan of gasoline or kerosene will be used for soaking parts. An old tooth brush can be dipped in the solvent and used to scrub off deposits. Diagrams and directions may come with the kit.

Try the simplest thing first before tearing into the carb with a rebuild kit.

Remove the float bowel and clean any gunk or water from out of it. Water is a major problem with small engine carbs that are left sitting for long periods of time.

That Hippy tells people to go out and run their small engines every week or two for 10 or 15 minutes through the winter and take the tractor for a short drive, engage the blades and such. Then when spring arrives the engines will start without the first problem and the thing will be ready to go to work.

It sounds like a lack of fuel is your problem, check that solenoid if it's equiped that way. Water in the fuel bowel will make them act the same way. Neighbor borrowed my tiller, brought it back and said it just quit running, checked for spark then looked in the fuel tank and asked him--quit not long after you put fuel in it didn't it? Water in the tank and fuel bowel, flushed em out and it started right up.

Remembering your last post. . .. did you drop the bowl of the carb to confirm all was well? This was the one you put the coil on, correct? If you have covered your bases- I'd suggest a fuel pump. They have a check valve which sometimes fails. They will initially run for a while and quit. Then, no cigar. . ..